Rennsters,

I am currently tearing down my 16v for a 'fun' winter project. So far, it's only costing me time. However, before I start dropping any bucks, I started compiling a short list of grocery items for the rebuild. I'm looking for recent costs and/or missing items to think about. Things to note, the engine is already out of the car and I'm down to the short block minus pulling the crank out. Timing belt and waterpump, tensioner, pulleys rebuilt 1500 miles ago. COST is a factor, but not a blocker. I'm just trying to get the best bang for my buck. All comments welcome.

REBUILD ITEMS:
valve job - 280
balancing engine = ?
decking the block/heads = ?
valves, seals and stems - =~330
lifters 68*16 =240 =1088 *(Purchase as necessary)
piston ring set = $200
new nuts and washers = $100 ??
gasket set = $350
exhaust gaskets = $100
intake gaskets = $100
rob bearing set = $130
crush ring block = $24

WYAIT ITEMS
engine mounts(2) = 350
engine shocks(2) = 100

Optional:
Powder Coat - 250
Running Total = $3252

 

So did the flexshaft work???

 

Aireflite, I just sent you a PM and posted the results on the original thread!

 

-Oil thermostat
-All rubber pieces(vac, air & water hoses, plenum standoffs, intake/TB couplings, etc) on top of engine
-Gasket set for CIS "U" plenum
-Consider having injectors and fuel distributor serviced
-If you used an HTD belt, consider going to PorKen's adjustable cam gear setup
-check/re-bush distributor
-Now is a great time to get your AC return hose rebuilt -- it's a PITA with the engine in. Once in there, maybe swap expansion valve & o-rings

Sounds like you budgeted $80 more than you need for engine mounts. Also, unless you're planning to make that thing run at 5500RPM all the time, balancing may be overkill. It might make the engine last a tad longer, but aside from that it's a matter of preference IMHO.

 

Main bearings-$300.00

For a few $$ more you could just drop my motor in place and gain 130hp

 

I agree John, fair bit of value there, can't believe it hasn't been snapped up, I suppose it comes down to the cars value, but the true enthuisast doesn't or shouldn't care about that.

Cheers Greg.

P.S
Checkmate could always sell off some bits to pay for the difference.

 

Brad, the gasket set will include the valve seals, exhaust gaskets, intake gaskets (including plenum gasket that Sharkskin mentioned), and crush rings.

Rich

 

Agreeing with Rich: Get the full gasket set and you'll have every gasket and ring you need. Think it's $450, though.

I wouldn't expect to spend anything on lifters.

Get the crank inspected and polished. <$100

Get new rod nuts. New nuts and washers for heads and mains are optional. Maybe a few nuts for the heads as some are exposed and may be corroded.

Aftermarket oil pan gasket?

Get the correct Loctite for the girdle-to-block assembly. (928Intl or others)

Get block hot tanked, maybe $100

Don't get any bearings until the engine is fully apart. Might want to go undersized or have them. Not sure about your car, but some early engines have the split #1 main bearing and some have a 1-piece braring. The 1-piece version is the same set used on 944s and is common and cheap. Not interchageable, though.

Piston and rod balancing is also nice. Not sure of the cost. $200?

New flywheel bolts should be used. ($40?)

You amy want new studs and nuts for the exhaust manifolds. Save time and aggrivation and order them. I couldn't find the right studs locally (have a nice collection of 8mm pieces now) and the washers are specially thick.

Might want new oil pressure sender and temp sender.

 

There is a way to save a little more when guying a gasket set for the 16V 928. When rebuilt the heads on my bother's '83 928, the local vendor recommended to buy 2 - 944 head gasket kits instead on one for the 928. One 944 kit is exactly half of a 928 (except for one little gasket). The cost of the 2 944 head gasket kits was ~$220cdn (under $200usd). I know this doesn’t include the oil and WP gaskets and the crank seals are not in it either but the rest is all there. The oil pan gasket should be switched to the new one piece polyurethane anyways.

I hope this helps.

 

$350 for engine mounts? Can the early cars not use the Ford mounts for $50-something?

If BrendanC doesn't see this you might want to send him a PM about the cost of the 4.5L he built.

 

To use the ford style mounts, you will need a later style crossmember. Not difficult to replace. I got a used one for $100, it bolted right in.

Rich

 

The mounts should be closer to $280 for the pair, and "no" the Ford parts can't be used. At least not without a bunch of work like replacing the cross-member.

 

Need the cross member, like stated and the mount hardware.

 

I built that motor with the intent to boost the hell out of it, while still keeping the compression up. I used new pistons, and had the rotating assembly balanced, and the rod bolts and bushings replaced. New valve springs "from a ford" and new spring seats cutters brought the cost back up on those. 78 cams, rebuilt heads, new rings, all new bearings, seals, LH euro intake, port matching, headers. S4 fuel rails with "brendanized" injectors to fit the LH euro intake.



Too many late nights in a cold *** barn away from my family. I sold that to a gentleman from the north, and he will use it with boost in an auto.

I sold it for 4700, but it came with headers, and I also sent him as much stuff for that motor as I could find in my garage. Call it 5500 in actual parts.

When someone tells you its 20k to build a motor, believe them. But also believe that the only person that can really do it your way is YOU. Time, energy, and money. Mostly money.

My new 5.0 32V will probably cost:

Headwork: over 1500, maybe over 2k
Cams, 1000
Springs: 400
Rotating: 1400
Coatings: 500
Rings: 300
bearings: 300
Gaskets: 300
Machining of block: 500
Rod Bolts: 250
Head Bolts: 400
Flywheel: 200
Powdercoating: 400
Custom distributor hole covers: 100
Headers: 1000

Having to buy my wife a new Honda accord, since now she thinks since I have three 928s with one together that she doesn't want one to drive:
30,000

 

Great feedback. I appreciate it.