Drilled Crank Thoughts...
#272
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The very first mention of "944 disease" that I saw was a paper by John Kim Crumb nearly 20 years ago. As the Porsche Club of America 928 technical editor he had become aware that the 928 ALSO suffered from rod bearing issues when tracked hard on sticky tires. Typically 10-12 hrs was enough time. Mr Crumb personally had 2-6 bearing failures twice on his GT as I recall. His "Project 928" 4.7 Euro at the first track event for the new owner it nearly cut the engine in half with a catastrophic 2-6 failure and broken rod.
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Has anyone mentioned or has it been discussed to open up the side clearance of the connecting rods to improve lubrication over the rod bearings?
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These really are't that high precision parts. Piston weight tolerance +/-4 grams is one sign of it. Only truly accurate tolerances are between cylinder wall and piston plus some critical bearing surfaces. There are several differences in similar rod raw castings that are on quick look exact same. This will probably result few g weight difference but Porsche only saw the need to get their weight to close enough. Anything closer would have meant much more machining needed to make weight accurate to within +/-1 g for example. They did get actual component weights which went into one engine at the factory very close to same by selecting same weight parts to one single engine. But this doesn't prevent anyone from mounting indivisual parts from for example any S4 engine into another S4 engine without checking their weights. This is ok from Porsches point of view since all parts were done to enough tight tolerances. How they look can vary quite a bit but they are all intechangeable within each engine style unless factory documentation says othervise. Exceptions are usually listed in yearly changes documents more often than WSM or PET even.
1. Since thrust bearing side height was made larger it was also needed to make crank side where those bearing sides lean on taller. Othervise bearing side height increase would have been useless. This means old crank can work with new bearing and other way around. Only thing needing some attention is engine block itself. Early block needs to be modified a little for it to accept later tall sided bearing. No big deal at all to do in any home garage with correct tools.
2. Crank oil hole diameter was increased from 4mm to 5mm some time in early eighties. This do not have anything to do directly with any other changes and thus either small or large holed crank will work with any bearing version.
3. Due to possible piston and/or rod weight changes its possible cranks meant for different engine types can have different size counterweights. I haven't checked part numbers to see if this is true or not. PET should have all the info we need to determine this since times when changes #1 and #2 occured are known.
Can't remember seeing it and there might be good reason for it. Rod bearings are force fed by oil pump throught crank holes and oil drains out from rod bearing sides. If sides are made more open this will lower oil pressure in bearing surface. At least thats my thinking why it would be bad thing to cut oil feeds into rod sides.
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But you can see Jay does some cross-drilling as well. Hold-on, and I'll try to make the differences clear and possibly what they imply in terms of oiling. Jay went over this but I don't remember the details, so I'll have to consult people who understand this better than me.
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Can't remember seeing it and there might be good reason for it. Rod bearings are force fed by oil pump throught crank holes and oil drains out from rod bearing sides. If sides are made more open this will lower oil pressure in bearing surface. At least thats my thinking why it would be bad thing to cut oil feeds into rod sides.
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Can't remember seeing it and there might be good reason for it. Rod bearings are force fed by oil pump throught crank holes and oil drains out from rod bearing sides. If sides are made more open this will lower oil pressure in bearing surface. At least thats my thinking why it would be bad thing to cut oil feeds into rod sides.
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#278
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Is other part to allow oil go into bearings through same holes against its normal flow direction?
There so many relatively simple ideas which can be done to all stock engines by anyone rebuilding them that its hard to keep track of them all. It could pay of though and result as good engine as possible this side of drysump.
There so many relatively simple ideas which can be done to all stock engines by anyone rebuilding them that its hard to keep track of them all. It could pay of though and result as good engine as possible this side of drysump.
#279
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This may be a really bad idea but maybe it has some merit. This only addresses the part of the problem that people are trying to remedy by drysumping or using an accusump.
Why does the oil pick up tube have to be stationary? Why couldn't you machine a swivel for the oil pickup that allows it to swival from one side to the other under cornering? The oil is thrown from left to right, why not allow the pick up to do the same. This style of pick up is used in a string trimmer (weed wacker) for the fuel pick up. This is why you can turn a trimmer up on end to use it as an edger and it doesn't starve for fuel.
This swival could be made to have a limited travel so it doesn't bang against the sides of the pan and it could even be lightly spring loaded so that it self centers when not under a cornering load.
OK fire away. Why wont it work?
[flame suit on]
Why does the oil pick up tube have to be stationary? Why couldn't you machine a swivel for the oil pickup that allows it to swival from one side to the other under cornering? The oil is thrown from left to right, why not allow the pick up to do the same. This style of pick up is used in a string trimmer (weed wacker) for the fuel pick up. This is why you can turn a trimmer up on end to use it as an edger and it doesn't starve for fuel.
This swival could be made to have a limited travel so it doesn't bang against the sides of the pan and it could even be lightly spring loaded so that it self centers when not under a cornering load.
OK fire away. Why wont it work?
[flame suit on]
#281
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Yes and no. The PSI at the inlet to the pump is very minimal so the amount of friction required to seal it would be minimal as well. Having it lightly sprung in both directions would lessen any chance that it would stick. If for some reason it was stuck to one side it would only be a bad thing when turning hard in one direction.
But you do bring up a great point that I didn't think of before.
Last edited by Fabio421; 01-10-2008 at 05:07 PM.
#282
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But you can see Jay does some cross-drilling as well. Hold-on, and I'll try to make the differences clear and possibly what they imply in terms of oiling. Jay went over this but I don't remember the details, so I'll have to consult people who understand this better than me.
The only way to get a crank drilled like that is to get a Moldex or similar. I dare say it might even be money well spent to have them make a stock stroke crank if you're not interested in a stroker, just to get that oiling.
#283
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Its on message #21 in other thread.
https://rennlist.com/forums/928-forum/380742-how-to-drill-a-5l-crank-like-a-chevy.html
And in here now too.![Smilie](https://rennlist.com/forums/images/smilies/smile.gif)
![](http://members.rennlist.com/vilhuer/IMG_2375.jpg)
There are just 8 individual holes. Each hole goes directly from nearest main bearing surface to each rod bearing surface. Making more holes to stock crank might achieve same result. It all depends on what actual problem which causes 2/6 deaths is.
https://rennlist.com/forums/928-forum/380742-how-to-drill-a-5l-crank-like-a-chevy.html
And in here now too.
![Smilie](https://rennlist.com/forums/images/smilies/smile.gif)
![](http://members.rennlist.com/vilhuer/IMG_2375.jpg)
There are just 8 individual holes. Each hole goes directly from nearest main bearing surface to each rod bearing surface. Making more holes to stock crank might achieve same result. It all depends on what actual problem which causes 2/6 deaths is.
#284
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Compare Erkka's shot, showing the holes going all the way through, to Jay's extra blocked off connections and extra cross-drilling of 3 of the mains in the link to Dennis's illustrations I included earlier. It's all in that one thread on "drilled like a Chevy", but the direct compare and contrast has not been stated there yet.
#285
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Yes and no. The PSI at the inlet to the pump is very minimal so the amount of friction required to seal it would be minimal as well. Having it lightly sprung in both directions would lessen any chance that it would stick. If for some reason it was stuck to one side it would only be a bad thing when turning hard in one direction.
But you do bring up a great point that I didn't think of before.
But you do bring up a great point that I didn't think of before.
Hammer