Delco Alternator Conversion
01-03-2006, 04:15 AM
#31
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Originally Posted by BrianG
I'm certainly open to correction here, but my understanding of this 3 wire Delco alternator is that the big lug supplies the charge current (to the battery). The red wire provides the alternator field coils with power and the white wire supplies the idiot light signal.
If this is the case, the red wire on the Painless adapter should be fed power through an ignition-switched supply. If that wire is connected directly to the battery, as proposed, the field coils will always be energized. This will be a constant draw on the battery and will eventually kill the battery if the car is not started fairly regularly to replenish the charge.
Am I wrong??
If this is the case, the red wire on the Painless adapter should be fed power through an ignition-switched supply. If that wire is connected directly to the battery, as proposed, the field coils will always be energized. This will be a constant draw on the battery and will eventually kill the battery if the car is not started fairly regularly to replenish the charge.
Am I wrong??
toofast, Thanks for sharing this info! I would still like the specifics on the pulley -- diameter, part no, or whatever specs one would need to source the same part. Also, this was already asked, did you get away with using the same belt?
01-03-2006, 01:07 PM
#32
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Be sure you know what you have before swapping it out. According to WEI, on the 1985-87 and 90-95, all were 115 amp stock. The 88-89 came through with 70 amp alternators, with 115 amp optional. Pre 1985, only the Bosch were 75; the PR were 90 and the SEV were rated at 85 amps.
I have fifty amps of cooling fans cycling on and off, and have no problems with my 70 amp system... yet.
I have fifty amps of cooling fans cycling on and off, and have no problems with my 70 amp system... yet.
01-03-2006, 09:56 PM
#36
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Sharkskin, the OEM pulley was ribbed. When I installed the Supercharger, the crank pulley from 928 Motorsports converted the ribbed to Vee. The alternator V pulley came in the superchager kit. Both ribbed pulley and V pulley are the same size. Removing the ribbed pulley from the Bosch to the Delco shouldn't be a problem.
FlyingDog, 14.2 v at idle all accesories on, with all accesories off the voltage hangs around 13.2. I wouldn't go to a larger pulley size because their's 50 -60 amps just waiting to be unleashed at idle speed. Why slow the rotor down and loose that amperage to a higher RPM?
One of the main benifits of the CS-130 is its ability to sense system voltage. Much more advanced than the Bosch unit.
I'm not trying to reinvent the charging system. Just improve on it a-little.
FlyingDog, 14.2 v at idle all accesories on, with all accesories off the voltage hangs around 13.2. I wouldn't go to a larger pulley size because their's 50 -60 amps just waiting to be unleashed at idle speed. Why slow the rotor down and loose that amperage to a higher RPM?
One of the main benifits of the CS-130 is its ability to sense system voltage. Much more advanced than the Bosch unit.
I'm not trying to reinvent the charging system. Just improve on it a-little.
01-04-2006, 12:44 AM
#38
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01-25-2006, 04:50 AM
#40
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toofast, I'm about to pull the trigger on a similar conversion. I have a couple more questions though:
- Did you look into putting a CS130D in rather than a CS130? Are the mountings different? It seems the 'D' model is superior, in that it is more compact with larger bearings and is more open for better cooling.
- In your original pic on this thread, I can't see where the lower(adjustable) alternator bracket attaches. Do you have a larger pic of the mounting details?
- Which way is the connector oriented? Did you see any limitations in fitment that would dictate a preference for how the connector is oriented? It looks like it could go in any of three positions.
I talked briefly to my rebuilder. They offer a 165A version(different stator & rotor) that they say should be able to push ~85A at idle. I will need to go down there and clarify whether that is the 130 or 130D, but fortunately they are only a couple blocks from work.
- Did you look into putting a CS130D in rather than a CS130? Are the mountings different? It seems the 'D' model is superior, in that it is more compact with larger bearings and is more open for better cooling.
- In your original pic on this thread, I can't see where the lower(adjustable) alternator bracket attaches. Do you have a larger pic of the mounting details?
- Which way is the connector oriented? Did you see any limitations in fitment that would dictate a preference for how the connector is oriented? It looks like it could go in any of three positions.
I talked briefly to my rebuilder. They offer a 165A version(different stator & rotor) that they say should be able to push ~85A at idle. I will need to go down there and clarify whether that is the 130 or 130D, but fortunately they are only a couple blocks from work.
01-25-2006, 01:59 PM
#42
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Saying "cs series" means any of three different casings (see http://www.alternatorparts.com/cs130_&_cs130d_alt.htm ) ranging from compact to huge. toofast mentioned that he thought space was limited between the rear cover and oil filter possibly interfering so I'm going carefully. Fixer, do you have a cs130D, cs130, or cs144?
01-25-2006, 02:57 PM
#44
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SharkSkin,
I choose not to install the CS-130D because the D version has thermo heat protect. It will shut down if the alternator becomes overheated. Low location on the 928 combined with the heat of a 100 F day, we don't know when the 130D would decied to shut down.
Mounting the CS 130 is just like the PIC. Need 5mm spacer for the upper mount. Lower mount is stock or you don't have to use the "belt adjuster bolt".
You do need the Delco pigtail connector. Get it from JEGS or your local speed shop. NO DIODE NEEDED. The kit might come with one.
CS-144 I think would be too big. The kits to make the CS130 140 amp would work, but the change of end cap to upgrade the cooling of the diodes might not clear the oil filter. I suggest just sticking with a regular CS-130. It works. As far as idle amps, I pushed 75 amps everything turned on, including rear defroster, both amps turned up for bass, and both engine fans. Normal idle amp draw is 50.
Gotta say very pleased with the set up, it now has 500 miles on it. Everything is brighter, headlamps, dash lights, fog lamps. CDs pounds bass with no amp clipping.
I choose not to install the CS-130D because the D version has thermo heat protect. It will shut down if the alternator becomes overheated. Low location on the 928 combined with the heat of a 100 F day, we don't know when the 130D would decied to shut down.
Mounting the CS 130 is just like the PIC. Need 5mm spacer for the upper mount. Lower mount is stock or you don't have to use the "belt adjuster bolt".
You do need the Delco pigtail connector. Get it from JEGS or your local speed shop. NO DIODE NEEDED. The kit might come with one.
CS-144 I think would be too big. The kits to make the CS130 140 amp would work, but the change of end cap to upgrade the cooling of the diodes might not clear the oil filter. I suggest just sticking with a regular CS-130. It works. As far as idle amps, I pushed 75 amps everything turned on, including rear defroster, both amps turned up for bass, and both engine fans. Normal idle amp draw is 50.
Gotta say very pleased with the set up, it now has 500 miles on it. Everything is brighter, headlamps, dash lights, fog lamps. CDs pounds bass with no amp clipping.
01-25-2006, 03:13 PM
#45
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After reading this thread, I looked at the CS130D on my 99 Suburban and tried it on my 928, it fit just like toofasts' did. I then tried the CS144 140A which I was going to put on the Suburban, it also fit, though the fan is close to P/S bracket. There were no clearance issues on the rear of the alt. I used the stock 4 groove pulley in place of the delco pulley. The p/n of the CS 144 is 321-1128 and the pigtail is PT1742 I believe.
Jeff
Jeff