The Twin Screw Thread
12-18-2005, 04:17 PM
#286
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Throttle Cable Routing
Here's a picture of the piece I cobbled together to route the throttle cable.
I had a problem with the thin springy thing that Andy included. It flexed too much and my throttle had a mushy feel. I added a bracket to stiffen it by where the throttle cable stopped against the edge, and punched a hole through my hood when I closed it.
Turns out that some flex was needed when the hood closed.
Fortunately, someone backed into my car a few weeks later, and the front end had to be fixed/repainted. So the hole was welded, sanded, bondoed, and painted. That was my call to arms, and I emailed Bill Ball for pics on what he had done. His had used a 2 piece setup, with one piece of aluminum coming off the throttle body, and it required the TB to be oriented such that the screw holes are parallel with the ground, which mine was not, so I came up with this:
I had a problem with the thin springy thing that Andy included. It flexed too much and my throttle had a mushy feel. I added a bracket to stiffen it by where the throttle cable stopped against the edge, and punched a hole through my hood when I closed it.
Turns out that some flex was needed when the hood closed.Fortunately, someone backed into my car a few weeks later, and the front end had to be fixed/repainted. So the hole was welded, sanded, bondoed, and painted. That was my call to arms, and I emailed Bill Ball for pics on what he had done. His had used a 2 piece setup, with one piece of aluminum coming off the throttle body, and it required the TB to be oriented such that the screw holes are parallel with the ground, which mine was not, so I came up with this:
12-18-2005, 04:25 PM
#287
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Originally Posted by Jim_H
Daryl,
Did you experiment at all with positoning the filter below the fender brace, where the horns are normally located?
There is no air flow inside the fender. So...
I wonder...
How much cooling you would lose to the brakes by venting some air from the spoiler brake tunnel?
Did you experiment at all with positoning the filter below the fender brace, where the horns are normally located?
There is no air flow inside the fender. So...
I wonder...
How much cooling you would lose to the brakes by venting some air from the spoiler brake tunnel?
Where did you source the pipes, elbows and hoses you used to run the cold air intake?
Thanks in advance,
12-18-2005, 05:13 PM
#288
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Originally Posted by FlyingDog
If I understand how the bypass works, wouldn't #7 be running rich when the bypass is open? Wouldn't it be taking air from the manifold (near #7) and sending it to before the SC where it would pass through again and be distributed to all cylinders? With all the bypass air coming from near #7, that should have less air and run rich... right?
12-18-2005, 05:20 PM
#289
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Originally Posted by Rick Carter
http://www.southfloridapulleyhq.com/index.html has an interchangeable pulley system that a machine shop should be able to machine the nose of your SC to accept. I think my Eaton SC takes a Kenny Bell pulley. A spacer had to put on the nose to bring it out far enough to line up with the crank pulley.
12-18-2005, 05:22 PM
#290
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Originally Posted by FlyingDog
All Bosch injectors are specified at 3bar or 43.5psi. They are designed to run at a wide variaety of pressures, to be consistant they test the flow rates at one pressure, 3bar. All pre-87 L-jet and LH-jet 928s have 2.5bar/36psi regulators that (should) run 30psi at idle. That is normal for fuel injected cars. Porsche is odd in running pressures as high as 3.8bar/55psi. Some GM TPI engines are over 50psi, but most American and European injected engines are 3bar or less. Mustangs, Neons, and OBD I Jeeps that run the same (19 or 24lb version) Ford/Bosch injectors you are running are 32-39psi (2.7bar regulator).
BTW, if you want to test the low idle fuel pressure theory, plug the vacuum line that goes to your regulator. That will give you 36psi up until the BEGI kicks in. That's the way Kibort runs his car (although I assume he is running a 3.8bar S4 regulator). You'll have higher idle fuel pressure than the cars that use your injectors from the factory.
BTW, if you want to test the low idle fuel pressure theory, plug the vacuum line that goes to your regulator. That will give you 36psi up until the BEGI kicks in. That's the way Kibort runs his car (although I assume he is running a 3.8bar S4 regulator). You'll have higher idle fuel pressure than the cars that use your injectors from the factory.
Try this:
Take the vac line off your begi and plug it. Now, while watching your fuel pressure, adjust the center screw. Your fuel pressure should go up/down.
MAKE SURE you remember what fuelpressure your BEGI was set at BEFORE you start tinkering so you can put it back when you're done.
12-18-2005, 09:57 PM
#291
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Mike,
As per Andy’s instructions I am not using a BEIG. I only have the 85-86 Fuel regulator and the two dampers.
I know the engine likes what ever the computer is doing while it’s running cold. If I add more pressure than that I may not see any difference or may end up running worse.
Do you think that disconnecting the plug to the temperature sensor II would cause the computer to think it’s running cold? I want to do this just long enough to see if it makes a difference.
As soon as I can get the car back into the garage I will measure the temperature on each exhaust port to see any temperature differences. Hopefully tomorrow.
Glen, email me at daryllmiller@hotmail.com and will send you parts, pictures and instructions on what I did.
As per Andy’s instructions I am not using a BEIG. I only have the 85-86 Fuel regulator and the two dampers.
I know the engine likes what ever the computer is doing while it’s running cold. If I add more pressure than that I may not see any difference or may end up running worse.
Do you think that disconnecting the plug to the temperature sensor II would cause the computer to think it’s running cold? I want to do this just long enough to see if it makes a difference.
As soon as I can get the car back into the garage I will measure the temperature on each exhaust port to see any temperature differences. Hopefully tomorrow.
Glen, email me at daryllmiller@hotmail.com and will send you parts, pictures and instructions on what I did.
12-18-2005, 10:17 PM
#293
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Originally Posted by Daryl
Mike,
As per Andy’s instructions I am not using a BEIG. I only have the 85-86 Fuel regulator and the two dampers.
I know the engine likes what ever the computer is doing while it’s running cold. If I add more pressure than that I may not see any difference or may end up running worse.
Do you think that disconnecting the plug to the temperature sensor II would cause the computer to think it’s running cold? I want to do this just long enough to see if it makes a difference.
As soon as I can get the car back into the garage I will measure the temperature on each exhaust port to see any temperature differences. Hopefully tomorrow.
Glen, email me at daryllmiller@hotmail.com and will send you parts, pictures and instructions on what I did.
As per Andy’s instructions I am not using a BEIG. I only have the 85-86 Fuel regulator and the two dampers.
I know the engine likes what ever the computer is doing while it’s running cold. If I add more pressure than that I may not see any difference or may end up running worse.
Do you think that disconnecting the plug to the temperature sensor II would cause the computer to think it’s running cold? I want to do this just long enough to see if it makes a difference.
As soon as I can get the car back into the garage I will measure the temperature on each exhaust port to see any temperature differences. Hopefully tomorrow.
Glen, email me at daryllmiller@hotmail.com and will send you parts, pictures and instructions on what I did.
12-18-2005, 10:40 PM
#294
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Originally Posted by mspiegle
If you're running what Andy sent you, that spacer is an adapter because a normal autorotor pulley cannot mount to an eaton. And yes, it also puts the pulley in proper relation to the crank pulley as you stated.
If you're running what Andy sent you, that spacer is an adapter because a normal autorotor pulley cannot mount to an eaton. And yes, it also puts the pulley in proper relation to the crank pulley as you stated.
I'm using the intercooler, crank pulley and oil inlet from Andy's kit, the rest has been changed. I bought a remanufactured Jag Eaton M112 and a spacer was machined at the install shop. It is possible Andy designed something similar but it was not included in the kit I received.
12-18-2005, 10:51 PM
#295
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Interesting. My 422 pulley is off by about 1/8 to 1/4". Many have seen this offset and I tried getting Andy to help me with it but he continually said no one else had the problem. Yet I now know of 3 different systems that do in fact have the problem...
Originally Posted by Rick Carter
Mike,
I'm using the intercooler, crank pulley and oil inlet from Andy's kit, the rest has been changed. I bought a remanufactured Jag Eaton M112 and a spacer was machined at the install shop. It is possible Andy designed something similar but it was not included in the kit I received.
I'm using the intercooler, crank pulley and oil inlet from Andy's kit, the rest has been changed. I bought a remanufactured Jag Eaton M112 and a spacer was machined at the install shop. It is possible Andy designed something similar but it was not included in the kit I received.
12-18-2005, 10:56 PM
#296
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Originally Posted by Rick Carter
Mike,
I'm using the intercooler, crank pulley and oil inlet from Andy's kit, the rest has been changed. I bought a remanufactured Jag Eaton M112 and a spacer was machined at the install shop. It is possible Andy designed something similar but it was not included in the kit I received.
I'm using the intercooler, crank pulley and oil inlet from Andy's kit, the rest has been changed. I bought a remanufactured Jag Eaton M112 and a spacer was machined at the install shop. It is possible Andy designed something similar but it was not included in the kit I received.
This was considered a "stage 2" upgrade for late eaton kits. I'm pretty sure he wouldn't give it to anyone unless they specifically paid for it, and had high-octane or an intercooler available. I think he only offered this option during the last 2-3 months of selling kits.
12-18-2005, 11:02 PM
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Originally Posted by Jim_H
Interesting. My 422 pulley is off by about 1/8 to 1/4". Many have seen this offset and I tried getting Andy to help me with it but he continually said no one else had the problem. Yet I now know of 3 different systems that do in fact have the problem...
I'm pretty sure these are completely unrelated. The jag/eaton has different offsets and pullies. From looking at Rick's pictures, he isn't using the stock jaguar 4psi pulley. His shop must have created their own adapter which appears to be similar to the setup that andy has.
Can you illustrate the alignment issue for me? I have access to another twinscrew car I can check and see if it has the problem.
12-18-2005, 11:23 PM
#298
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Originally Posted by mspiegle
Mike,
Since I didn't buy the SC from Andy it was my responsibility to adapt it to his kit.
I don't know, not having seen an Eaton SC supplied by Andy, if my unit is identical to those the kit was designed for.
I'm pretty sure these are completely unrelated. The jag/eaton has different offsets and pullies. From looking at Rick's pictures, he isn't using the stock jaguar 4psi pulley. His shop must have created their own adapter which appears to be similar to the setup that andy has.
Since I didn't buy the SC from Andy it was my responsibility to adapt it to his kit.
I don't know, not having seen an Eaton SC supplied by Andy, if my unit is identical to those the kit was designed for.
12-19-2005, 01:10 AM
#299
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Originally Posted by mspiegle
Andy made a spacer/adapter which allows you to mount a modified autorotor adapter to the eaton since the eaton can't really use any other pullies (check a post i made earlier about eaton pullies).
This was considered a "stage 2" upgrade for late eaton kits. I'm pretty sure he wouldn't give it to anyone unless they specifically paid for it, and had high-octane or an intercooler available. I think he only offered this option during the last 2-3 months of selling kits.
This was considered a "stage 2" upgrade for late eaton kits. I'm pretty sure he wouldn't give it to anyone unless they specifically paid for it, and had high-octane or an intercooler available. I think he only offered this option during the last 2-3 months of selling kits.
Mike are you refering to something different than the "quick-change" adapter Andy sold me? I paid extra for it. I'm just not quite sure if I need Kenne Bell pulleys or something else.
Last edited by Bill Ball; 12-19-2005 at 03:11 PM.
12-19-2005, 03:08 PM
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Originally Posted by Daryl
Mike,
As per Andy’s instructions I am not using a BEIG. I only have the 85-86 Fuel regulator and the two dampers.
.
As per Andy’s instructions I am not using a BEIG. I only have the 85-86 Fuel regulator and the two dampers.
.
this baffles me.
Why isnt it needed?
What is your fuel pressure at max boost and what size injectors are you running?