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Rear shock replacement and conical washers - resolved!

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Old 11-26-2005, 08:11 PM
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Flott Leben
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Default Rear shock replacement and conical washers - resolved!

Can someone please definitively tell me where the two "conical" washers go on the main bolt of the rear suspenson assembly? Do they go on either side of the shock absorber mount or on either side of the wheel hub link? Thanks.

Last edited by Flott Leben; 11-28-2005 at 01:25 PM.
Old 11-26-2005, 08:27 PM
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Garth S
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The hub carrier is dished inwards either side ....
Old 11-26-2005, 08:56 PM
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Flott Leben
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That is what i noticed as well, Garth, but I was unsure. Thanks. I will put them on either side of the wheel hub mount. Maybe I'm misreading Tony's procedure but it seems like his description puts the shock between both conical washers. Thanks again!
Old 11-26-2005, 11:00 PM
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Mrmerlin
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Hi Bro both of the conical washers go next to the shock, and the flat faces go towards the shock and the bevel faces away, good luck, Stan
Old 11-26-2005, 11:24 PM
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WallyP

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OK, guys - this is important!

The spherical washers go on each side of the upright, in the matching recesses, with the round surface facing into the upright on the front and back. These washers keep the upright aligned.

If you get it wrong, the car will be very unstable. When you accelerate, the rear will swing slightly one way, and when you lift off the throttle, the rear will swing the other way.

Ask me how I know...
Old 11-27-2005, 12:18 AM
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borland
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The conical washers hold the pivot pin centered with the hub assembly's bore. So, the conical washers fit on each side of the hub with the bevel end towards the hub.

The shock fits between the rear conical washer and the large flat washer. Make sure you align the shock end at the correct orientation, so the pivot pin slides on easily. With some extra effort, you can get it installed 180 degrees out, which is incorrect.

borland
90' S4, Slate Metallic
Old 11-27-2005, 06:53 AM
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Garth S
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Three yea votes to placing the conical washers into the matching hub recesses, one half nay vote .... any reconsideration for unanimity before final submission to Flott?
The hub is allowed a slight degree of off axial articulation by way of these pivot surfaces .... and wally has nicely detailed the consequence of bassackward placement.
Old 11-27-2005, 08:11 AM
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the flyin' scotsman
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Flot..............see my response to your PM. The conical washers go either side of the hub into the recesses. I just completed my Eibach/Bilstien install last weekend so the process is very fresh. The picture Tony has on his site is wrong of which he's now aware and is amending.

Borlands description above is accurate and Garths "off axial articulation" is way too much for this time on a Sunday morning.
Old 11-28-2005, 11:52 AM
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Flott Leben
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Garth, Wally, Borland and Malcolm (and you too, Merlin!),

Thank you all for your responses. After posting I was able to locate an exploded view diagram of the rear hub in the workshop manual (I know I should have looked more thoroughly there first ). The two conical washers go on either side of the wheel hub mount, not on either side of the shock mount. If you look at the hub mount ends you will see the conical recesses that the washers fit nicely into. Trust your instincts . . .

I finished the job last night and took it for a test ride. I will need to let the suspension settle and adjust ride height before giving a final impression but my initial impression is that the ride is no harsher than what I had and the car stays planted and more level in the corners.

Just out of curiousity, how many of you guys have done this job and replaced all the rubber bushings and mounts that lie between the top of the spring and the body of the car? Is that a worthwhile procedure?

Thanks again.
Old 11-28-2005, 11:58 AM
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GlenL
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Originally Posted by Flott Leben
Just out of curiousity, how many of you guys have done this job and replaced all the rubber bushings and mounts that lie between the top of the spring and the body of the car? Is that a worthwhile procedure?
I've done that. I replaced every rubber bushing in the rear suspension including the shock tops with the exception of the forward bushings on the lower arm. Didn't notice any improvement. Lots of work, though.

I suggest _not_ doing it unless the bushings are obviously cracked, oil soaked or otherwise damaged.
Old 11-28-2005, 12:14 PM
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Flott Leben
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Thanks, Glen! That is kind of what I thought (since I didn't do it) but it is nice to hear it confirmed by someone who did it.
Old 11-28-2005, 12:32 PM
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GlenL
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While the new rubber bits weren't needed, really, there was some benefit I should add.

The PO (or mech.) had re-assembled some pieces wrong and left out some washers. Also I lubed the rubbing surfaces and bolts with synthetic brake grease. It's all correct, tight, adjustable and quiet now.
Old 11-28-2005, 04:17 PM
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gruffalo
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Ditto what WallyP said, DTDT. In just a few days the aluminum had deep grooves in it.
Old 11-28-2005, 07:20 PM
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UKKid35
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I am v grateful for the write up on Tony's site, despite the inaccuracy. But he's not alone. Check the pic of the rear shock on Carl's site. Something is not right at all...

http://www.928motorsports.com/parts/...droplinks5.jpg
Old 11-28-2005, 08:57 PM
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Flott Leben
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Gulp! The shock is on the wrong way. It should be rotated 180 degrees (the weld from the shock to the shock mount should be closer to the rear, not the front). Also, the lower spring retainer plate is missing. It should be sitting on top of the adjuster collar and the spring's bottom should be resting on that plate, not the adjuster. [edit - this is because the springs are hypercoils, not OEM - so, nevermind.]

Last edited by Flott Leben; 11-30-2005 at 08:24 PM.


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