Rear shock replacement and conical washers - resolved!
#16
Before we get to excited about what and where; the web sites referenced are a damn site better than the official WSM. As memebers of the list I'd like to believe that we pass on our personal experiences and if we are updating each other then we all benefit.
Yes we perhaps publish in error but I worked on my car long before owning a set of WSMs through Tony's and John's and others web sites.
Our cars are mechanical marvales from then and now and are not meant to be worked on by just anyone.
That said, its just a car!!!
Yes we perhaps publish in error but I worked on my car long before owning a set of WSMs through Tony's and John's and others web sites.
Our cars are mechanical marvales from then and now and are not meant to be worked on by just anyone.
That said, its just a car!!!
#17
The picture Tony has on his site is wrong of which he's now aware and is amending.
If idid its been like that for the last 4years! at least!
I put it on the way it came off if i recall?
Whats the ref page in the manuals so i can look it up myself.
hmmmm
#19
Here are pics of the way my original rear shock looked when I removed it. The original and only PO had never had any suspension work. You can see a single big FLAT washer on one side of the shock. What is hidden by the other side of lower shock bushing is a cone washer facing the hub carrier. Tony's picture has one conical going up againt a flat washer. That wouldn't seem right even if it was that way before. There is a concavity in each side of the hub carier that mates to the cone washers.
In terms of Web references for this, Earl Gilstrom and Gary Knox wrote this:
BE SURE to properly position the two conical washers on either side of the “middle” part of the suspension arm,..."
http://www.nichols.nu/StrutSpr.pdf
http://www.billsworkshop.com/P928S4/...earshock01.jpg
http://www.billsworkshop.com/P928S4/...earshock03.jpg
In terms of Web references for this, Earl Gilstrom and Gary Knox wrote this:
BE SURE to properly position the two conical washers on either side of the “middle” part of the suspension arm,..."
http://www.nichols.nu/StrutSpr.pdf
http://www.billsworkshop.com/P928S4/...earshock01.jpg
http://www.billsworkshop.com/P928S4/...earshock03.jpg
Last edited by Bill Ball; 11-29-2005 at 02:54 AM.
#20
Bill................exactly correct.
Tony..........the ref page is in section 42 if I recall correctly (don't have the WSMs at work) and clearly depict the location of the 2 conical washers and the flat.
Tony..........the ref page is in section 42 if I recall correctly (don't have the WSMs at work) and clearly depict the location of the 2 conical washers and the flat.
#21
Tony,
Page 42-2, part number 13, "Cone Washers."
Malcolm,
You are correct, Tony's site is an invaluable resource, as is Nichol's site. We all owe them a great deal of gratutude. We also owe it to them (and other owners) to point out errors and suggest corrections or clarifications. I just hope Tony has the washers on correctly or else he may have worn the inside of his hub carrier.
Page 42-2, part number 13, "Cone Washers."
Malcolm,
You are correct, Tony's site is an invaluable resource, as is Nichol's site. We all owe them a great deal of gratutude. We also owe it to them (and other owners) to point out errors and suggest corrections or clarifications. I just hope Tony has the washers on correctly or else he may have worn the inside of his hub carrier.
#22
The exploded view in the WSM is a little confusing with dotted lines depicting the location, but it is as I found it. Also, Marc at DEVEK gave me direction regarding this when I changed out the coilovers.
#23
Originally Posted by Flott Leben
Tony,
Page 42-2, part number 13, "Cone Washers."
Malcolm,
You are correct, Tony's site is an invaluable resource, as is Nichol's site. We all owe them a great deal of gratutude. We also owe it to them (and other owners) to point out errors and suggest corrections or clarifications. I just hope Tony has the washers on correctly or else he may have worn the inside of his hub carrier.
Page 42-2, part number 13, "Cone Washers."
Malcolm,
You are correct, Tony's site is an invaluable resource, as is Nichol's site. We all owe them a great deal of gratutude. We also owe it to them (and other owners) to point out errors and suggest corrections or clarifications. I just hope Tony has the washers on correctly or else he may have worn the inside of his hub carrier.
#24
I can't imagine getting the conical washers located as in Tony's picture
#25
One comment on removing the two pivot pin nuts and extracting the pivot pin....
The forward nut and large washer on the pivot pin must be removed, as this washer interfers with the hub when trying to extract the pin from the front.
If while loosening the two nuts on the pivot pin and the rear nut comes loose first, you may need a strap wrench and impact wrench in order to remove the front nut.
The forward nut and large washer on the pivot pin must be removed, as this washer interfers with the hub when trying to extract the pin from the front.
If while loosening the two nuts on the pivot pin and the rear nut comes loose first, you may need a strap wrench and impact wrench in order to remove the front nut.
#26
Originally Posted by the flyin' scotsman
Couldn't have said it better. Given the space between the shock and the hub I can't imagine getting the conical washers located as in Tony's picture; there's not enough room. Perhaps the picture was in error only and the washers are all correctly located.
Ill try and have a look today.
Ive taken many pics along the way of the stuff ive done...it may be a bad pic?
<gulp>..I hope
#27
Originally Posted by borland
One comment on removing the two pivot pin nuts and extracting the pivot pin....
The forward nut and large washer on the pivot pin must be removed, as this washer interfers with the hub when trying to extract the pin from the front.
If while loosening the two nuts on the pivot pin and the rear nut comes loose first, you may need a strap wrench and impact wrench in order to remove the front nut.
The forward nut and large washer on the pivot pin must be removed, as this washer interfers with the hub when trying to extract the pin from the front.
If while loosening the two nuts on the pivot pin and the rear nut comes loose first, you may need a strap wrench and impact wrench in order to remove the front nut.