Finally! Building the stroker (pics)
#1
Finally! Building the stroker (pics)
Hi All,
After numerous delays I finally got started building my stroker motor. Thought some may want to see some pics.
I started the way I always do ( although this is my first 928 motor) by grinding off all of the casting flash & breaking all the sharp edges to prevent any potential stress risers. Then I smoothed the oil passages in & out of the oil pump & filter to relieve oil turbulence & prevent any cavitation problems. I also added some dowels in the non-oil bearing stud areas to prevent the skirt from walking around against the block. Most of this is overkill but I tend to continually modify engines & hate to have to tear down the shortblock to withstand the upgrades. This way I don't have to go back in if I get radical with the mods later. The dowels are mainly if I should supercharge the engine later. I also had it align bored. ( Yes I had the oil pump area re-machined round ).
Then I ground the bottom of the cylinders where the rods get a little close.
I installed the crank to get it on the engine stand. (No the milk crate is not my engine stand).
Not much so far, but time consuming. I'll do more this weekend & throw some more pics up. Hope some find it interesting.
Hammer
After numerous delays I finally got started building my stroker motor. Thought some may want to see some pics.
I started the way I always do ( although this is my first 928 motor) by grinding off all of the casting flash & breaking all the sharp edges to prevent any potential stress risers. Then I smoothed the oil passages in & out of the oil pump & filter to relieve oil turbulence & prevent any cavitation problems. I also added some dowels in the non-oil bearing stud areas to prevent the skirt from walking around against the block. Most of this is overkill but I tend to continually modify engines & hate to have to tear down the shortblock to withstand the upgrades. This way I don't have to go back in if I get radical with the mods later. The dowels are mainly if I should supercharge the engine later. I also had it align bored. ( Yes I had the oil pump area re-machined round ).
Then I ground the bottom of the cylinders where the rods get a little close.
I installed the crank to get it on the engine stand. (No the milk crate is not my engine stand).
Not much so far, but time consuming. I'll do more this weekend & throw some more pics up. Hope some find it interesting.
Hammer
Last edited by 6.0-928S; 08-23-2005 at 02:25 PM.
#7
Originally Posted by cpires
Where did you get the crank? What connecting rods are you going to use?
Thanks
Carl
Thanks
Carl
It's a Scat crank, I'm using Carrillo rods.
Thanks, Hammer
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#8
Originally Posted by Sterling
There appears to be a boatload of mallery in the front counterweight..... how many slugs did they have to add to balance it?
There are just as many slugs in the rear counterweight. That was one of my complaints when I bought the kit & one of the reasons for the several years delay in assembly. Rather than critisize anyone publicly, you'd have to PM me for an explanation.
Thanks, Hammer
#9
Originally Posted by Sterling
It wasnt meant as criticism, and if it was taken that way, my apology. I was just curious. My stroker crank was balanced externally as the counterweights were turned down too far by the engine builder. It wasn't my 1st choice but thats how it was done.
I didn't take it as a criticism at all. As a matter of fact I admire what you've done with your engine, - it sounds like something I'd do! What I meant was that the kit had multiple engineering defects that I had to correct before I could assemble it. Like counterweights hitting the pistons, like being balanced for lighter rods when I ordered Carrillos, (hence the mallory metal) LIKE, Aaaaahh!
I can't get started, count to ten, aaaah much better.
Thanks, Hammer
#12
Hi there.
Very interesting. You may want to check those dowel sheels. They should only be in the rear on a later block or the front and rear on the early.
If you put more in without checking the allign-bore, you may be asking for some real clearance trouble on the mains. This is why shuffle pinning on 911's cost so much, because it takes a lot of time to make for perfect placement.
Let me know if you checked it or had already addressed this issue.
Thanks!
Very interesting. You may want to check those dowel sheels. They should only be in the rear on a later block or the front and rear on the early.
If you put more in without checking the allign-bore, you may be asking for some real clearance trouble on the mains. This is why shuffle pinning on 911's cost so much, because it takes a lot of time to make for perfect placement.
Let me know if you checked it or had already addressed this issue.
Thanks!
#14
Originally Posted by Ketchmi
Hi there.
Very interesting. You may want to check those dowel sheels. They should only be in the rear on a later block or the front and rear on the early.
If you put more in without checking the allign-bore, you may be asking for some real clearance trouble on the mains. This is why shuffle pinning on 911's cost so much, because it takes a lot of time to make for perfect placement.
Let me know if you checked it or had already addressed this issue.
Thanks!
Very interesting. You may want to check those dowel sheels. They should only be in the rear on a later block or the front and rear on the early.
If you put more in without checking the allign-bore, you may be asking for some real clearance trouble on the mains. This is why shuffle pinning on 911's cost so much, because it takes a lot of time to make for perfect placement.
Let me know if you checked it or had already addressed this issue.
Thanks!
#15
Originally Posted by Jim_H
For us idiots (me) can someone circle or highlight the area where the dowells are?
Thanks!
Thanks!
Thanks, Hammer