Holbert car problem. Could be big. Advice regarding rear wheel bearing or CV joints
#16
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Thread Starter
2:33.2 with the bad bearings?? thats fast. kind of scarry to think of the rear wheel lock up if they got worse!!! you pressed them out yourself with a press and a torch??
i think joe did right around this in the more powerful Ron GT racer and i was about a second behind that with my 2-3 second slower crummy hoosiers. didnt really know how bad they were until i waisted two more races at laguna wondering if my engine was having issues. (denial !!) turned out to be mostly tires and a little engine (flappy was disconnected). So, crummy hoosiers cost me a better time at a HUGE trip and effort to Road america, and two chances to get in the record books with SCCA at laguna. (just running within a second of my best time with the old hooseirs was not possible, over 3 races!) NEVER AGAIN! Now, its Speed World Challenge used Toyos from now on. good to the cords!!
WE have to have a rematch. I hope the east coasters are planning to come out West this next season!! ITS ONLY FAIR!!
Good luck for the remainder of this season!
MK
i think joe did right around this in the more powerful Ron GT racer and i was about a second behind that with my 2-3 second slower crummy hoosiers. didnt really know how bad they were until i waisted two more races at laguna wondering if my engine was having issues. (denial !!) turned out to be mostly tires and a little engine (flappy was disconnected). So, crummy hoosiers cost me a better time at a HUGE trip and effort to Road america, and two chances to get in the record books with SCCA at laguna. (just running within a second of my best time with the old hooseirs was not possible, over 3 races!) NEVER AGAIN! Now, its Speed World Challenge used Toyos from now on. good to the cords!!
WE have to have a rematch. I hope the east coasters are planning to come out West this next season!! ITS ONLY FAIR!!
Good luck for the remainder of this season!
MK
Originally Posted by Jean-Louis
Mark, I had the same problem two weeks ago on the Euro. Both rear bearings were dead (dry and some play on the driver side). You need a press and a torch to remove and assemble the bearings. Took me 30mn for the bearings assembly. Did a 2:33.2 at RA with those bearings..........
Jean-Louis
91GT, 87S4, 84 Euro S (GT2s)
Jean-Louis
91GT, 87S4, 84 Euro S (GT2s)
#17
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Thread Starter
so, i wiggle the wheel and it is absolutely tight as a drum. you can kind of hear it faintly when you spin the wheel as fast as you can by hand, but no comparison to when the wheels are spun up with the engine to 100mph.
hard to imagine the CV joints making that kind of noise,as they are not really spinning, its just the ***** rotating to keep motion at the different angles. dont really fully understand the design, but intuitively, it doesnt seem like those ***** are at any kind of real speed, especially if the wheel , shaft and diff are parallel inline, right?
going to attack the wheel bearing
MK
hard to imagine the CV joints making that kind of noise,as they are not really spinning, its just the ***** rotating to keep motion at the different angles. dont really fully understand the design, but intuitively, it doesnt seem like those ***** are at any kind of real speed, especially if the wheel , shaft and diff are parallel inline, right?
going to attack the wheel bearing
MK
Originally Posted by SharkSkin
In my case, there was grit in the joint which caused abnormal wear and the wear surfaces were spalled. So, the rough wear surfaces caused the growling. Usually when these things wear, they do so over an extended time period and they stay smooth. So the first symptom is excessive play, which manifests as clicking. Any sort of CV, bearing, etc. can howl or growl if there are rough surfaces in contact with one another.
#18
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Originally Posted by mark kibort
so, i wiggle the wheel and it is absolutely tight as a drum. you can kind of hear it faintly when you spin the wheel as fast as you can by hand, but no comparison to when the wheels are spun up with the engine to 100mph.
hard to imagine the CV joints making that kind of noise,as they are not really spinning, its just the ***** rotating to keep motion at the different angles. dont really fully understand the design, but intuitively, it doesnt seem like those ***** are at any kind of real speed, especially if the wheel , shaft and diff are parallel inline, right?
going to attack the wheel bearing
MK
hard to imagine the CV joints making that kind of noise,as they are not really spinning, its just the ***** rotating to keep motion at the different angles. dont really fully understand the design, but intuitively, it doesnt seem like those ***** are at any kind of real speed, especially if the wheel , shaft and diff are parallel inline, right?
going to attack the wheel bearing
MK
I still think it's worth checking, with the car on ramps and suspension in normal operating position... even though the symptoms tend to point to the bearing. You said you have a short timeframe, so IMHO it is important to inspect everything that COULD be a problem so you have time to address whatever you find.
#19
It's a bearing, trust me. I did my passenger rear in a little over a day. No machine shops here - I just used my oven and heated and pounded. It's an easy but tedious job - you can do it. By bearing was trashed, BTW.
#20
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Thread Starter
great words of encouragement. ill try it.
tell me, how did you pound the thing out
i may have access to a shop with a press. sure would make things a lot easier it sounds.
any alignment bolts to remove, or just the shock at the bottom and the upper link remove on the inside and the hub pulls off??
whats that big nut tightened too (32mm) was it 260ftlbs? wait, wasnt that the crank bolt? do i hear 600ftlbs???? can i jump up and down on an 18" breaker bar?
maybe i can use my NOS system with regulator and use my air impact driver. (good for quick removal of bolts, before the gun freezes!)
MK
tell me, how did you pound the thing out
i may have access to a shop with a press. sure would make things a lot easier it sounds.
any alignment bolts to remove, or just the shock at the bottom and the upper link remove on the inside and the hub pulls off??
whats that big nut tightened too (32mm) was it 260ftlbs? wait, wasnt that the crank bolt? do i hear 600ftlbs???? can i jump up and down on an 18" breaker bar?
maybe i can use my NOS system with regulator and use my air impact driver. (good for quick removal of bolts, before the gun freezes!)
MK
Originally Posted by Adam C
It's a bearing, trust me. I did my passenger rear in a little over a day. No machine shops here - I just used my oven and heated and pounded. It's an easy but tedious job - you can do it. By bearing was trashed, BTW.
#21
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Thread Starter
can you remove the nut with the wheel and tire attached? (i have a big hole in the kenisis that will fit a big socket) this seems like it could be easier to hold the wheel against the torque this way. (ie e-brake, in gear and piece of wood in front of the tire)
mk
mk
#24
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Thread Starter
I think Jim rents himself out for less than the torque wrench cost. question is, does he charge more for having to jump off a step stool to break the darn thing free? ( i bet its more than 400ftlbs to break it free, dont you think?)
#26
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Mark that is what the 24 inch bar is used for actually several have used the floor jack method and literally start jacking up that axle with a breaker bar with the jack lifting on the end.
#27
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Thread Starter
wow. i forgot thats what the nut looks like without the rotors attached. (didnt know you could fit a box end on it) so, what costs more 32mm box, or 32mm 1/2 socket. Kind of want to try NOS again!
an ole box end and a jack. You guys got this stuff down.
Hey, since i know my corner weights of 661lbs on each of my rear corners, can i just put the jack on at the .5 foot mark and get 330ftlbs?
mk
an ole box end and a jack. You guys got this stuff down.
Hey, since i know my corner weights of 661lbs on each of my rear corners, can i just put the jack on at the .5 foot mark and get 330ftlbs?
mk
#29
A good 1/2" impact gun will break the bolt loose easily, but you're gonna need a 3/4" torque wrench to put it all back together regardless. Most mechanics don't lend those out(the few that actually own one that is) because they cost so much friggin money.
I think snap-on gets like $3000+ for a 3/4" drive torque wrench.
I think snap-on gets like $3000+ for a 3/4" drive torque wrench.
#30
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Thread Starter
Tried the breaker bar with the 32mm socket. didnt budge. then, used the jack to jack up the 18" breaker bar 1/2" type. all it did was bend like a pole vault pole. (actually not that much , but you get the idea) Then, i pullled out NOS and regulator. set pressure to 200 psi and used my impact gun. sounded like the ones at the porsche shop. nothing. turned the pressure up to 250 to 275 (lines are only rated to 200psi) and still, no budge. i have a feeling that this is going to break the axle shaft when it comes loose.
I guess ill have to go to the shop and see if they can break it loose with all the pro tools.
MK
I guess ill have to go to the shop and see if they can break it loose with all the pro tools.
MK