Alan

Seem most of the 12v versions really mean 12v - they seem OK till the car is at 14v when running then start to fry...

A series resistor can keep them under control - be nice if someone actually made automotive grade ones... Mine are still functional (almost 5 years so far).

Alan

Champagne

Hey Alan,

I just visited the link you posted and I don't see anything resembling the small transformers we had in the eBay kits.
Did they describe the units to you?

One of mine crapped out as well. I should have followed your advice on the resistor

Paul

Alan

Paul - this is what they sent me...

Alan

byrdman454

Andrew sent me some new ones last year since one of my eBay blues had went out. I have not yet installed them.

Alan, can you tell me what resistor I need to buy (Radio shack) and where do I spice it in the system?

Champagne

Thank you kind Sir,

that is more information than what is listed on the website.
I guess the 20P will work nicely.

Do you think that these would benifit from an inline resistor as well?

Paul

Alan

Paul - I don't know - I'd try them and see if they get hot with the car off and running - if they do then yes...

Mike you need to add a series resistor to the +ve lead of the inverter where it connects to the interior lights. The value will be dependant on the current draw - mine were about 22 ohms and were 2w ceramic resistors. I'd expect something similar would work but you may have to experiment. You need something that will still light the panel well enough with the car off but will not get hot or make an anoying whistle with the car running... if you have a DMM check the current they take @ 12v and plan to drop about 2v on the series resistor... ohms law - or just post results here...

Alan

byrdman454

Alan,
Can you explain what I need to do with my multi-meter? I am electrically challenged. I am a mechanical engineer.

VWaddict

With the resistor wired in line with the positive leg, and the engine running, (and with the black probe on a GOOD ground) measure the voltage at the 'incoming' end of the resistor using the red probe... -It should quite likely be high...say maybe 14-point-something volts. Next, measure the voltage at the OTHER end (the 'ballast' end) of the same resistor, with the black probe still on the same ground point.

If everything is as planned, the voltage at the 'Ballast' end should be 12.0V or thereabouts. If it's still high, the resistor value will need to increase. If it's too low, the resistor value will need to be decreased.

Note: The above assumes that your alternator is working efficiently, and delivering a good output at idle.- If your alternator is weak, it might yet rise a bit when you raise the engine speed above idle.

Keith

Randy V

Paul - let me know which ones you get and the price.

Thanks.

Randy V

Did anyone get replacement transformers yet?

Randy V

Anyone?

AO

Randy,

I haven't the need yet to buy a new PS, but it appears from the litetape.com site that you want the "LP - 12VDC."

Champagne

I did buy the components from Light Tape. I didn't have a chance to install them yet. The transformer is bigger than I anticipated, but one transformer will power both sides. I will probably put the transformer near the center panel and run wires to both sides.
Components seem a much better quality than what I was using before.

Paul

Bill Ball

One nice thing I noticed is that Light Tape offers a light blue (when lit) tape that is white when off. The white light tape that I have, and that Light Tape offers, is PINK when off. I wanted white light, but the pink when off color is rather funny looking. So, I may switch to light blue.

BeerFish

I was looking at the lighttape.com page and they show the "connector" that attaches the wires to the tape as a very large "plug"? Paul - did yours arrive like this? I assume the older ones from ebay literally just had two wires attaching to the piece of EL which would be less durable but easily fit? Just curious, because it looks like the new wire connector would never fit under the sill?