What do I need to work on my 928?
#16
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I find that two floor jacks are the way to go. You jack one side up enough to get a jack under the front to one of the skid plates (lower control arm to frame mount points). Then you use the first jack under the other skid plate. Then, using both jacks you get the front up enough to get a jack stand under each front lift point. Then move one jack to the back, lift the rear from the crossmember and get the back points on stands. At that point you have a jack at each end and you can raise and lower the car with ease.
#17
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The Kempf Timing belt tool
Flywheel Lock tool
The spark plug wrench from the 928 tool kit.
Thats about it for must have 928 specific tools.
Other good ones to have not mentioned:
Circlip pliers
Band clamp pliers
Fuse and Relay pullers
Ohm meter/Voltage tester
Blocks of wood (2x4s) for those front jackpoint stands and to place on the jack head for cranking it up using the lower contol arm attachement point.
Has anyone bought a Kwik-Lift yet?
Flywheel Lock tool
The spark plug wrench from the 928 tool kit.
Thats about it for must have 928 specific tools.
Other good ones to have not mentioned:
Circlip pliers
Band clamp pliers
Fuse and Relay pullers
Ohm meter/Voltage tester
Blocks of wood (2x4s) for those front jackpoint stands and to place on the jack head for cranking it up using the lower contol arm attachement point.
Has anyone bought a Kwik-Lift yet?
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I've always found ramps to be extremely convenient and easy to use at proper ride height. I got mine at Pep Boys.
I just bought a new set of metric sockets at Sears with the laser cut sizes on them. Those of us of "a certain age" find it very difficult to read sizes on tools.
Roger has a Kwik Lift and it's slicker'n deer guts on a door ****! The height is perfect for lying on a creeper and working under the car.
I just bought a new set of metric sockets at Sears with the laser cut sizes on them. Those of us of "a certain age" find it very difficult to read sizes on tools.
Roger has a Kwik Lift and it's slicker'n deer guts on a door ****! The height is perfect for lying on a creeper and working under the car.
#19
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I dont have spoilers on my OB, so i can get away with the ramp thing without issues. I have the black plastic Rhino ramps. I just dont like those metal ones and the Rhinos dont leave rust spots on my driveway. I drive up and jack the back up to set the rear stands, and then depending on if the front wheels need to come off, i'll jack the front high enough to replace the ramps with jack stands one at a time.
Lucky son of a gun.
Roger has a Kwik Lift
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Originally Posted by Vlocity
The guys with lifts are just cheating. LOL.
As to ramps - they are fine for many jobs. If you just lay a 3' long 2x4 in front of them to drive on first, the spoiler clearance is not a problem.
#21
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Originally Posted by Mark
HEY!!! I resemble that remark!!!
#24
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For most of what goes wrong - the most basic electrical gear:
Start with a reasonable digital volt/ohm meter with: connectivity buzzer,
long leads, probe tips, crocodile clips and fine probe clip tips. (you never
have enough hands or long enough arms)
Alan
Start with a reasonable digital volt/ohm meter with: connectivity buzzer,
long leads, probe tips, crocodile clips and fine probe clip tips. (you never
have enough hands or long enough arms)
Alan
#26
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Regarding ramps I use them constantly and love them, easy and no body damage. However, they are useless if you need to remove road wheels or undo the steering rack.
#28
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LOL @ Mark... ramps can work fine if you put some wood in front of them to keep from dragging the front end. I have 2 pieces of 2X6 that do this job perfectly. Not having a spoiler helps too.
Lots of good advice above, especially the service covers. I would also recommend you get 3 torque wrenches to cover the range required. a 20-75# with a swivel head, a big'un for torqueing lug nuts, and a small one that reads in/lbs for the small bolts on WP, cam covers, etc. and USE THEM. You will not find a single torque wrench that covers the whole range. Don't worry about the 332ft-lb monster nut on the rear spindle... you can use a 250ft-lb wrench with a rented torque multiplier to get that one on the rare occasions when you need to. Just look in the WSMs to see the torques required. Also consider a set of metric universal joint sockets. When shopping for a DMM consider getting one that also reads temperature & RPM, or one that you can plug a Fluke thermocouple adapter into.
Beer & band-aids should be obvious.
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Beer & band-aids should be obvious.
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#29
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I just bought a Mityvac vaccuum tester today...... with all the damm vaccuum driven HVAC in 928's its a must! Problem is everything I test leaks! Damm!
Brian
Brian
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Ramps will work if your ride height is good and you just lift each side of the front and drop before going up on the ramps. The front suspension will sit 1"-1.5" higher right after lifting and give you more clearance to clear the spoiler.
I have some giant blocks of built up 2x12 's that are attached to the end of the ramps that are even higher. I can then take the ramps away and have more room to get around under there.
Getting dirty is half the fun and gives you much more confdence in the 928 the more you have seen and touched of it.
I have some giant blocks of built up 2x12 's that are attached to the end of the ramps that are even higher. I can then take the ramps away and have more room to get around under there.
Getting dirty is half the fun and gives you much more confdence in the 928 the more you have seen and touched of it.