I had a fuel leak at the front of the WUR, and a new banjo bolt with correct washers fixed that, thanks everyone. I still have no idle after checking all the vaccuum hoses and oil filler cap. Now, when I start the car, it starts right up the first time and I can rev the engine fine. I can keep it running while I press the gas a little to simulate idle. If I let go it dies. When the car dies, I cannot restart it. It just cranks and cranks. I started it yesterday after fixing the fuel leak. After I shut it off, I tried starting it 10 minutes later and it wouldn't go, just cranks and cranks. I tried to start it today, and it fires and runs the first time, but if I turn it off it wont restart. I just finished rebuilding the engine. I wanna enjoy my shark, but I can't!!!!!

 

By the way, the fuel filter is new, WUR is new, all hoses are new, fuel distributor is rebuilt, new plugs, cap, rotor, new head gaskets, cam tower gaskets, rear cam seals, oil pan gasket; engine is dry and tight with no leaks.

 

Anyone??

 

In tank fuel pump maybe?

 

I thought that my car only had one pump? Can anyone verify?

 

A quick look at PET shows me 3 fuel filters (#7) and 4 fuel pumps? (#1, 7, 25)
I am confused.

 

Is your air sensor plate with in static dimension per wsm?
The Intermittent start almost sounds like a bad battery.

 

That's a wonderful diagram. It shows multiple variations of the fuel system. You only have one pump and one filter.

For not idling without giving it gas, I'd say adjust the idle using the screw on the front of the throttle body.

However, the failure to re-start says something more (worse) is happening. Two quick tests can help point the way:

Check for spark with a timing light.
If there's spark then try some starter fluid blasted into the intake.

If it still doesn't start then my inclination would be that it's flooded. Try disconnecitng the cold start valve wiring. That's on the from of the plenum.

Did you mess with the mixture adjustment on the air valve arm? That's very sensitive. There was a thread recently on that.

 

The battery is brand new, and I have tried turning the idle screw. I'm gonna try turning it out almost all the way. I have not touched the mixture adjustment screw. I should disconnect the cs valve wiring and then try? I'll do that as well. Thanks everyone.

 

What page are you referencing?

I turned the idle screw almost all the way out, and the car idled at around 600 rpm when I started it up. It ran for about 60 seconds and the idle fell off like usual, and it died. When I tried to start it up again, no go. I have spark, but i don't have someone to help me with cranking & spraying right now. Will try that tomorrow. When I have the fuel leak at the front of the WUR, I was able to start the car, run for 30 sec, then shut it off, check for leak, the leak was still there, so I ran and grabbed a towel, soaked up fuel, when it stopped leaking, I tried to mess with the banjo bolt and it would restart everytime. I think that the engine is flooding itself. I don't get how that would cause it to not start? If there is fuel and spark in the cylinder, then why wouldn't it start? Is it because there is too much fuel? What would cause an engine to flood itself? I think I need to take the intake of and make sure again that all hoses are correct and tight. When I started it today, I heard a teapot like sound when I ran around to the engine bay. There has to be one large vacuum leak somewhere. All of the gaskets between the spyder legs and heads are new, maybe somewhere around the throttle body?

 

Borys,

Sounds like you're running on the cold start initially. Did you adjust the CO while your WUR was leaking? If so, this may require adjusting now that your leak is repaired. Point being - your control pressures could have been low due to the leak and your shark may have been running rich. This would lead some to adjust the CO on the lean side to compensate. This is just a guess and there could be multiple causes. To diagnose you'll need to put a pressure gauge on the system, as well as, check your fuel delivery - for starters.

 

I don't have a pressure guage, and I didn't touch the air/fuel ratio. I did some more research into past topics and I think that maybe a bad check valve next to the fuel pump could be causing more fuel to pour into the cylinders after shut off, and flooding my engine. I didn't want to mess with the mixture screw because I don't have an oxygen sensor, I have no way of measuring the ratio. How would I do that? Where can I get some guages to check the pressure, and as far as delivery, I know there is fuel flow, but whether it is the right amount, I dont know. Thanks Scott.

 

You can't work on CIS without a pressure tester and a mityvac. You need to test the fuel pump presure and control pressures (warm & cold). Also. I.m not sure about the number of fuel pumps (my 79 has 2) Esy to check by removing the cover at the bottom of the tank. Look for 1 or 2 sets of wires.

Make sure you have WSM a and good book on CIS. Check the archives on good books, I think the one I have is Probst. Also ,there is a good Porsche CIS manual. Email me at sean.skiffington@snclavalin.com if you want a PDF copy.

Good Luck
Sean

 

"What page are you referencing?"
Fuel System Chapter 25-13

 

I found my air sensor plate way out of spec after having a large back fire in the induction system. There was an audible suction sound before I adjusted it by tapping the stop pin down carefully.