Sean, you have email, thanks. I have a mityvac, so how would I test those pressures? My WUR is brand new and Fuel Distributor is rebuilt, so I thought they should already be in spec?

Hey 928BC, I my car use to backfire a lot before my rebuild. It was so bad that the intake plenum would jump and hit the hood.

 

Like the man said, you cant diagnose CIS without pressure gauge set - JCWhitneys, ~$57. Also Ben Watson book from Amazon, $15. You need to check system pressure ~75psi, cold control ~20psi, hot control ~45psi. Fuel delivery ~1300cc/30 secs. Excessive fuel flooding (wont start because the plugs are shorting due to we with gas) can be either cold start valve leaking or thermo-time switch failed, or leaking injectors - have these been tested? Next time you can get it started, and it wont re-start, pull a plug quickly and see if its wet with gas or not. If it is, remove connector from CS valve as soon as you can re-start it, see if that helps. IIRC book says to remove CS valve, bridge pump relay, see if CS valve sprays when warm (ie when it should NOT), then check thermo time switch - this should go open circuit after 8 secs or some Temp reached.
hth
jp 83 Euro S AT 49k, BTDT

 

A bit more detail regarding Jpitman's reply:

The Bosche K-Jet manual states that the delivery of 1300cc (or1.3L) should be measured at the fuel return to the tank (near the fuel distributor). I had always assumed this would be measured at the fuel supply - until I read more carefully.

The check valve would not cause the engine to flood. The function of the check valve/fuel accumulator is to maintain system pressure for some time after the car has been turned off. The accumulator provides the pressure source and the check prevents the imediate pressure bleed-off (ie. prevents the fuel from being displaced back to the tank. Reason for this is to prevent the fuel from vaporizing in the injector lines while the engine is hot -- vapor lock. Bad check valves cause hot start problems.