URGENT...Need advice on wheel bearings...
04-03-2005, 07:17 PM
#16
And the moral of this story is if the screws are in there they must be tight. If there are no screws in there they can be loose. 
Actually a loose screw will not allow the wheel to seat and the rotor floats. No screws or tight screws are OK. Just no loose screws. BTW anyone seen John Struthers? LOL
Dennis
Actually a loose screw will not allow the wheel to seat and the rotor floats. No screws or tight screws are OK. Just no loose screws. BTW anyone seen John Struthers? LOLDennis
04-04-2005, 12:24 AM
#17
Captain Obvious
Super User
Super User
Dennis,
My thoughts exact. The loose screw didn't allow the rim to properly mate with the rotor. This is the same reason that when a wheel is removed both surfaces hould be wire brushed before assembly.
My thoughts exact. The loose screw didn't allow the rim to properly mate with the rotor. This is the same reason that when a wheel is removed both surfaces hould be wire brushed before assembly.
04-06-2005, 02:26 PM
#18
Rennlist Member
yes, those phillips head screws are not even needed. its all the torque of the wheel nuts.
mk
mk
Originally Posted by Imo000
"I had a rubbing sound that was speed sensitive and was affected by turning. It turned out to be a slightly loose brake rotor - one of those little, short phillips screws had backed out."
John,
Can you please explain how you came to the conclusion that the scres were the casue of you problem?
As far as I know the phillips screws are only there to ease the installation of the rotors. They serve no purpose after the wheels are tightened. Aren't the rotors held on by the pressure beween the wheel studs and the wheel nuts, and not the 6mm phillips head screws?
John,
Can you please explain how you came to the conclusion that the scres were the casue of you problem?
As far as I know the phillips screws are only there to ease the installation of the rotors. They serve no purpose after the wheels are tightened. Aren't the rotors held on by the pressure beween the wheel studs and the wheel nuts, and not the 6mm phillips head screws?
04-06-2005, 03:16 PM
#19
Drifting
Originally Posted by mark kibort
yes, those phillips head screws are not even needed. its all the torque of the wheel nuts.
mk
mk
I have now drilled out the remainder of the screws whose heads I had to drill to remove the discs and replaced them with new ones, the clunking has gone. Wheel nut torque was checked before and after.
Back to the Bearing issue. I would do the quick and easy job, i.e. not replace the shells in the hub, just to get you home, not because there is any chance they will fail, but because of the irritation factor. You only need a 10mm hex on a cheap torque wrench to remove the caliper and a small allen key for the bearing clamp, plus a hammer and disposible screwdriver to remove the bearing cover.
04-06-2005, 03:29 PM
#20
If you have to travel more south, we can get a solution for you in San Diego - but I'm not sure how far south your were planning on before turning east.
Wheel bearings can heat up and cut through hub centers - so thats my word of caution. I've seen them seize - personally, but not on a 928. On a E class mercedes.
Wheel bearings can heat up and cut through hub centers - so thats my word of caution. I've seen them seize - personally, but not on a 928. On a E class mercedes.
Originally Posted by bgrabner
OK - some of you have seen I am traveling from California to Virginia right now...picked up the 88 S4 today and had a great time on the Highway 1 twisties - unfortunately, after about 250 miles, I started to hear a rubbing sound from the front of the car. It was most pronounced when making left handed curves, so I am guessing it is the right wheel bearings. It is speed sensitive, and seems to be most prevalent at around 40 MPH. Once I hit flat, straight roads, it seemed to mostly go away, but I can hear it faintly from time to time.
Here is the question - I am just starting a 2800 mile trip, and have about 2500 miles to go. Now, I am mostly going freeway miles, which will reduce the strain on the bearings, but it is still a long way. Heading mostly on I-40, so there are long stretches of nothing out there. Any advice? Can I push through since this just started? Considering its the weekend, there isn't much I can do right now for parts - anything I can do on my own? Don't exactly have a full complement of tools right now either
Anyways - any advice/help is appreciated. Thanks!
Bill
Here is the question - I am just starting a 2800 mile trip, and have about 2500 miles to go. Now, I am mostly going freeway miles, which will reduce the strain on the bearings, but it is still a long way. Heading mostly on I-40, so there are long stretches of nothing out there. Any advice? Can I push through since this just started? Considering its the weekend, there isn't much I can do right now for parts - anything I can do on my own? Don't exactly have a full complement of tools right now either
Anyways - any advice/help is appreciated. Thanks!
Bill
04-06-2005, 10:54 PM
#21
Grab,
If the bearings are really loose you won't have to lift the sHARk to feel the slop.
Assuming everything else is tight -suspension wise (check your shocks/hardware/perch)- you are probably on the right track. If you get antsy and want to physically check the bearing for snugness-is that a word ?- Do as Garth suggests but keep in mind pulling that bearing grease cap can be a bear as there is some serious depth to the cap from the the bead/lip on in. Since the cap is hemispehrically shaped down to the lip you aren't going to be grabbing and twisting the cap with a big pair of vice-grips. And of course the rotor, caliper, A arm ..... are going to be in your way....
I'm sure you'll figure it out.
Anyone here suffer the dreaded thrust bearing/bearing journal march to disaster?
In reference to this rpm/speed related post ...what does it sound like?
Never mind...5spd.
Dennis?
And by that you meant?
Did that poster with the bizarre idle problem touch base with you?
Or do all pre-puter' CIS machines fluctuate a couple thousand rpms like that at idle?
Sounded like the WUR and you territory so I dropped your name like a Hot Potato.
BTW Did you get another Turbo or did the rebuild do the job?
Zack and I shall endeavour to do the TB/WP/Tensioner/Roller stuff x2 June/July.
If the bearings are really loose you won't have to lift the sHARk to feel the slop.
Assuming everything else is tight -suspension wise (check your shocks/hardware/perch)- you are probably on the right track. If you get antsy and want to physically check the bearing for snugness-is that a word ?- Do as Garth suggests but keep in mind pulling that bearing grease cap can be a bear as there is some serious depth to the cap from the the bead/lip on in. Since the cap is hemispehrically shaped down to the lip you aren't going to be grabbing and twisting the cap with a big pair of vice-grips. And of course the rotor, caliper, A arm ..... are going to be in your way....
I'm sure you'll figure it out.
Anyone here suffer the dreaded thrust bearing/bearing journal march to disaster?
In reference to this rpm/speed related post ...what does it sound like?
Never mind...5spd.
Dennis?
And by that you meant?
Did that poster with the bizarre idle problem touch base with you?
Or do all pre-puter' CIS machines fluctuate a couple thousand rpms like that at idle?
Sounded like the WUR and you territory so I dropped your name like a Hot Potato.
BTW Did you get another Turbo or did the rebuild do the job?
Zack and I shall endeavour to do the TB/WP/Tensioner/Roller stuff x2 June/July.
04-06-2005, 11:27 PM
#22
John,
I was ...uh... just wondering where you had been. Thrust bearing failure? This has been a hot topic recently on the 928 email list. Lots of good information. RPM fluccuation on the CIS engines are normally caused by a vacuum leak, bad decel valve or an accumulation of oil/dirt on the air sensor plate. He hasn't contacted me yet.
The 931 is back on the road with a rebuilt turbo. The rebuild was with parts cobbled from an 80 core and as yet to be determined sources for the guts. It does have a little more lag but once the boost kicks in it will hit the rev limiter a little too quickly. Guess it was worth the $1200 repair bill.
Now I'm looking for a 944 intercooler so I can match the HP on my 928's.
Dennis
I was ...uh... just wondering where you had been.
Thrust bearing failure? This has been a hot topic recently on the 928 email list. Lots of good information. RPM fluccuation on the CIS engines are normally caused by a vacuum leak, bad decel valve or an accumulation of oil/dirt on the air sensor plate. He hasn't contacted me yet.The 931 is back on the road with a rebuilt turbo. The rebuild was with parts cobbled from an 80 core and as yet to be determined sources for the guts. It does have a little more lag but once the boost kicks in it will hit the rev limiter a little too quickly. Guess it was worth the $1200 repair bill.
Now I'm looking for a 944 intercooler so I can match the HP on my 928's.Dennis