hacker-pschorr

One more question about footings. Since the garage where the lift will be going is already built, I'm assuming we can cut out some of the concrete, pour in something thicker where the lift will attach to?

dr bob

DR's install is pretty nice. With the springs and drive pulleys all the way up at the top, the door can sit tight againat the ceiling lumber. Add a pulley or two to get the cables over to the wall and down, and you are good to go.

Dave: How does the opener close the door? Turning the shaft isn't enough with the two-finger door. I spent way too much time on my installation, trying to get all that stuff figgered out.

DR

>One more question about footings. Since the garage where the lift will be going is already built,
>I'm assuming we can cut out some of the concrete, pour in something thicker where the lift will attach to?

Yes, that is the standard practice. What you do is cut out a certain size square (as spec'd by manufacturer) and then dig an "Key Stoned" hole (sides of hole slope back under the existing concrete) and pour the proper type of concrete. This "locks" the new footer in place better than a perfectly square footer. I have a section from my Rotary install manual that illustrates this if you need it, but most manufacturers should include this info. I HIGHLY recommend that you get a copy of the install manual for which ever lift you consider and read over it BEFORE you purchase the lift. If any Lift manufacturer will not supply you with this then I recommend you select another manufacturer.

DR

>Dave: How does the opener close the door? Turning the shaft isn't enough with the two-finger >door. I spent way too much time on my installation, trying to get all that stuff figgered out.

Closes it perfectly every time. All you need is a slight "weight" (2 fingers) to the door for it to close. If you are for sure using an opener it is probably best to add a little more weight for some openers to close properly. If you are not using an opener you should get it balanced to where it will hold at any position you stop it at. This is all done mainly thru the proper variable ratio of the cable spools, on mine they are tapered (instead of constant diameter drums) which helps to keep the "weight" more constant across the lifting range. If you ever need custom hardware or even the best prices on commercial doors/openers I highly recommend American Garage Door Supply www.americandoorsupply.com or www.carwashdoors.com. Great guys that will help you design the door and opener system you need at wholesale prices and they know their stuff.

Bill Ball

With very limited space, I've settled on the 4-post type. After looking at a ton of lifts online, I'm favoring two mentioned early in the thread:

Backyard Buddy (BB) Standard 7000#: https://www.backyardbuddy.com/

Autolifter M6: http://www.autolifters.com/m6.html

These both use steel tube (4 wall) uprights instead of c-channel with a rigid external guide surrounding the post incorporating very sturdy locks. This film at BB, after you get by the sales pitchy opening, is very instructive. Please watch and comment.
http://www.backyardbuddy.com/introforvideo.htm

All the other lifts I looked at used c-channel uprights and bushings in the pulleys instead of sealed bearings (not clear if BB is bearings or bushings), stamped runways instead of stamped plate welded over c-channel.

I don't know what the BB unit costs yet, but the Autolifter is less expensive than many of the less sturdy models I saw elsewhere, including Eagle and BendPak. Only one was notably less money, and that is Direct-Lift, and it includes a load of options, as sold here:
https://www.gregsmithequipment.com/c...products_id=28

Joe, I know you have the Eagle lift, I believe this one:
http://eagleequip.com/page/EE/PROD/LI-SS/603-034
which uses bushings and c-channel post design. If you have found that unit to be good for this purpose, then I would think the Direct-Lift with all its included options would be a good deal I should keep on the list.

Kevin C.

Bill you should look for local representation. unlike other things we purchase a lift cannot be sent back. Lift companies often will use scare tactics, remember certified lift must be tested at 3X their capacity. This does not mean you should pick up 21K with your 4…. however it should easily pick up your 3.2K car without failure.
I think you should add to your list Complete Lift available through www.completerhydraulic.com
I have seen some pic of cars falling off lifts, however they not problems with the lift problems but in a loading problem.

sublimate

I think the link should be www.completehydraulic.com.
Dang, that's cheap - $1850 w/ casters, and jack and drip trays.

They're looking for distributors. Maybe some here could become one and cut us a big rennlist discount.

Champagne

Hey Bill,

I posted a topic about my new lift a while ago.
I too was concerned about the stability of the C-channel design. But I went for the Eagle type anyway because of the excellent value.

You can get that same lift, with all the options for $1850.00
Complete Hydraulic
Now that I've been working with it for a while, I can tell you that this type of construction is more than sturdy enough for anything a home garage can throw at it. It's actually strong enough to be moved around with the car on it.

I do not doubt that the other design is probably stronger, but all things considered, the CL8000 or similar is more than sufficient, very well built and an excellent value.

And you might have enough money left to cover parts for your next project and actually use the thing

Paul

Bill Ball

I actually had Complete Hydaulic on my list, but I must had had an indirect listing as I had not found the details that are on their homepage. Yes, the Eagle, Direct Lift and Complete Hydraulic lifts appear to have similar construction, although the Complete is rated 8K and weighs more.

Sharks

Andy, I may be in the same boat as you now as I bought the 5-speed yesterday. I am leaning toward selling the auto, but keeping both would require a 4-post lift. I will post pics later today after I get the mud off of it from the dirt roads out here.

AO

Sent you a PM!

Kevin C.

Bill
You do not know how correct you are, Eagle, Direct and Complete being similar. I operate a company in Philadelphia Pa……. one of the product we distrube is the Complete Hydraulic 4 post lift. We did install this unit on a 928 owner (pic posted in earlier posting) in Northern Virginia; I can contact him if you would like to speak with him. I would like to sell you a lift however the shipping would kill us.
I have spoke to John last year at Hershey about being a Rennlist sponsor and I think we will make it happen this year.
Kevin
Callahan Products
215.887.3106

Bill Ball

OK, lift ordered. I went with Direct Lift through Greg Smith Equipment.
https://www.gregsmithequipment.com/c...products_id=28
Great package deal with the casters and drip trays, plus I added a Pro Jack
https://www.gregsmithequipment.com/c...products_id=54

They have been running auctions on eBay with 2 jacks, but I think two wheels off at a time is fine.
http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eB...RK%3AMEWA%3AIT

Shipping tomorrow from IN. Should be here next Friday or so.

DR

Bill,

Congrats on the Lift!!!

Once you get that sucker up and running and use it a little it will not be long until you will wonder how you ever got along without it!

Gretch

That center jack is slick, makes the four poster almost as versatile as a two poster.....good price too.....how much does it weigh?