Early Model 5-spd Question
#1
Burning Brakes
Thread Starter
Early Model 5-spd Question
Just about every time I shift into reverse (car at a stop, of coarse) I can feel the gears snag slightly. Is this common/normal?
#2
Rennlist Member
It can depend upon how quickly the shift to reverse occurs: for example, if the clutch were engaged in neutral prior to declutching for reverse, it may take a 'five count' before everything slows down enough to allow a smooth shift.
A common reason would be an incomplete clutch release - due to too short a stroke on the slave cylinder = air in the master or slave; however, I suspect that you've already done that.
A common reason would be an incomplete clutch release - due to too short a stroke on the slave cylinder = air in the master or slave; however, I suspect that you've already done that.
#4
Burning Brakes
I've owned my 928 about four months and I noticed this same thing at first. I have very little play in my clutch, so I have learned to make sure I completely engage (to the floor) to avoid any snags or grinding when shifting to reverse. I don't really know what's normal and what's not, but I know what works for me.
Last edited by 1981 Shark; 02-10-2005 at 08:06 PM.
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#8
Rennlist Member
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I suspect that clutch drag, from either the intermediate plate adjustment, air in the clutch hydraulics, or a worn/sticky central shaft is much more common than most people think.
#10
Well you could try "reverse double-clutching" -- but that's no job for a shifting neophyte. You see, the idea of "regular" double clutching is to bring everything up to speed inside the gearbox so moving parts are already lined up or synchronized. The gears mesh when moved without use of the little synchronizer brakes. This is the same idea when you shift at the top of an rpm range into the next higher gear. WHen lightly pressing on the shifter, you will feel the gears "float" when a certain rpm is reached, you may at that time quickly move the slector to the next higher gear position without use of the clutch.
Reverse, however, is a horse of a different color, so to speak. The most likely cause of your discomfort is the slow spin-down of the forward gear sets prior to your shift to reverse. The recommendation of going into fifth gear then immediately into reverse works because of the positions of the gears inside the case and that the shifting action to fifth brings everything rotating to a halt and lines up the gear sets for reverse.
"Reverse Double Clutching" is only for the adventurous: When you "reverse double clutch" you must speed the engine up to past the red line, and wait until the tach starts to go around again past the end stops. You will recognize the engine reversal by the loud and noticible "clunk" ("Klunk" in the Euro model) -- this means the engine is now running in reverse and thus, the double clutch movement is synchro'ed for the backwards motion. Dratted difficult to achieve, however, so best left alone.
Cheers,
Dave
Reverse, however, is a horse of a different color, so to speak. The most likely cause of your discomfort is the slow spin-down of the forward gear sets prior to your shift to reverse. The recommendation of going into fifth gear then immediately into reverse works because of the positions of the gears inside the case and that the shifting action to fifth brings everything rotating to a halt and lines up the gear sets for reverse.
"Reverse Double Clutching" is only for the adventurous: When you "reverse double clutch" you must speed the engine up to past the red line, and wait until the tach starts to go around again past the end stops. You will recognize the engine reversal by the loud and noticible "clunk" ("Klunk" in the Euro model) -- this means the engine is now running in reverse and thus, the double clutch movement is synchro'ed for the backwards motion. Dratted difficult to achieve, however, so best left alone.
Cheers,
Dave