inactiveuser1228

Im having a similar situation after replacing the timing belt, pump......and fuel filter on an 87 S-4 that sat for ten years. I also had the injectors serviced. Now the car will start but run only for a few seconds very roughly and then die. I'm thinking it could be the fuel intake screen in the tank is cloged. Anyone ghave any thoughts and could this also be Marks problem.

Steve

Garth S

There are several ways to verify fuel flow: one fairly straight forward approach is to open the fuel return line on top of the tank. With a helper, either crank the engine briefly, or key it on with the relay jumpered. A healthy flow would be good ....
Usual precautions to capture fuel: the return line is accessed under the 6" black plastic 'manhole' under the rugs, right rear hatch.
You may also choose the crossover hose at engine front - carefully counterhold the immovable side of the fitting ....

inactiveuser1228

Thanks garth,

I did open the fitting at the front of the (right) passenger side fuel injector rail while cranking the engine and almost no fuel came out. I know its not the fuel filter because I replaced it, and I can hear the pumps. The car sat for ten years. Do you think I should just drop the tank to clean it and the fuel intake screen, I'm so close, yet so far!

Thanks,

Steve

P.S. I hope I did not hyjack Marks thread and this info might help him also.

Garth S

Hope you don't mind Mark? Steve - just because the pump runs is not an assurance of either flow or pressure. Could be a stuck check valve on the outlet, dead pump - or no inlet (gravity) flow: Most of the '87s did not have the in-tank primary pump, but if 2 wires snake along side the rubber fuel tank outlet line, that remains a possibility.
For starters, pinch off the outlet fuel line - and disconnect at the pump inlet ( NEVER the reverse ). Remembering that there are several gallons of fuel behind the pinch clamp [ flat faced vice grips will do - just enough to stop any flow]. Open the 'pinch' a bit ... If there is a lot of flow, then go after the pump and/or check valve. If not, then you can go back to the upper end as discussed, remove the level sender gear - and pump out the tank.

Bill Ball

Garth:

For Mark's car, I agree we need to verify flow. There is SOME flow, at least, as it sputters. Battery is first order of business, then we will start back at ground zero and verify fuel, air, spark.

Bill Ball

Have you JUMPED the fuel pump relay and tried to run the car yet? Somebody refresh my feeble memory, but the fuel pump will shut off after a few seconds if it does not get a signal (post 15?) that the car is running, right? Forget how that works, but jumping the fuel pump relay (30-87) bypasses that issue for testing, right?

Garth S

Bill,
Absolutely on the money - as usual! Really great of you to be there. Now, for when I'm stumped - do you travel?

Mark87AT

First of all, thanks to everyone! So, I will definitely change out the battery terminal clamp, I had already gotten one, but had yet to put install it. Ultimately I want to run a new (+) line. I also, at one point smelled the tailpipe and there it did smell like gas, but I agree, checking it to be sure it is really flowing is a good idea and I'll get a spark tester and check that too and Garth and Steve, please feel free to continue! no worries here. Mark

sonny1

Hey Steve, your avatar is freaking frightning!!,cheers,Sonny.

inactiveuser1228

Ya Sonny,

My kids a real trip. Think he gets it from him mom.

Steve

Mark87AT

So I improved the battery connection, although I may need a new battery ultimately, but I don't believe that is the problem, since I tried starting it jumped. I disconected the fuel return line and hard wired the pump relay and get a good quantity of fuel flowing out. I also have a spark on both sides (I checked one spark plug on each side with a tester I bought, wasn't really able to get it on the sparkplug due to the depth but it flashed). So I am begining to perhaps think it may be a vacuum problem. I started checking tubes and one was so brittle it broke in half! This tube was attached to a round black vacuum valve (?) I looked through the shop manual but couldn't find it easily. here are two pics, one close up and one further back. anyone know what this valve does? Mark

UKKid35

Have you double checked the sprocket timing marks through the inspection holes with the crank at TDC?

SharkSkin

Mark, I'm not sure what that device is, but try plugging the line to the manifold just as a test. That might be a big enough vacuum leak to cause hard starting/no start!

Mark87AT

Wow! I am surprised no one seems to know what that valve is? Perhaps I should post the pics as a separate "Wutz dis?" thread? M

heinrich

Dude this is I believe the valve to the charcoal canister.