justin

Has anybody used this kit, how does it work?
scroll down a bit, http://www.jageng.com/ext_detail.htm

Richard S

I haven't used it, but I noticed it on another 928. Basically a sticker you apply to the trim. The one I noticed had some wrinkles in it, so it seems you have to be careful when applying it. I've been thinking of ordering a set, but it's a little further down on the list of things to do. BTW, I tried painting the trim many years ago, but of course I didn't prep it correctly and the paint eventually flaked off. This seems like a viable solution, and the cost is about the same as primer and paint. This would be much faster and cleaner. If you get a set, update us on how it turns out.

Rich.

Chuck Z

If you were to take the trim off the windows, remove the remaining anodized finish, sand smooth, prime with self etching primer and paint with satin black SEC (I think) trim paint they would look as good as new.

Or, you could remove them and have them powder coated satin black.

There's a trick to getting them back on the rubber trim and it involves putting string in the track and pulling it out as you press the trim piece into the track.

deliriousga

I have the kit, but haven't put it on yet. It has detailed instructions and takes heat to apply (high watt work lamp or hair dryer) to keep from getting the wrinkles. It will be awhile before I install it since the instructions say it needs to be 60 degrees or higher while installing it. I'll let you know how it turns out when I finish.

FlyingDog

Chuck, if you're going to that much effort, why not just re-annodize them?

sublimate

I've heard the trick using string to get the window/rubber seal back in the opening, but not for putting the trim back on. How do you do it?

Chuck Z

Powder coating is more durable and will look better for a longer period of time than the anodized finish?

Chuck Z

I've heard this too. The bodyshop that painted my wheels on the 95 GTS and mud flaps for the CTT (Import Paint & Body - Charlotte, NC) described the string trick for putting the quarter window trim back on too.

Nicole

The idea of the Jager kit is to make the existing trim look good again without having to remove it and risking any damage in the process.

While the new trim pieces are black plastic, the ones that fade are aluminum. Getting those pieces out can be tricky, and bend them. Once they are bent, it's extremely hard to get them straight again.

Another nice side effect is that the plastic foil is more scratch resistant than paint. And if it gets damaged, you can just replace the foil - it's a taime saver.

So, if you are going for concours, get those pieces out, have them powder coated or whatever, and use Chuck's trick to put them back on. But if you just want them to look better without having to invest a lot of time or money, Jager's offer is pretty good.

I use the lock overlays and really like them.

BTW: THe heat is needed to soften the foil and make it conform to the exact shape of the trim, and stick well to it. The same is true for anything you stick on - including the side moldings, in case you ever have to reglue them with trim tape.

DR

Victor,
Here is the tip I originally posted on Porsche Fans back in the last Century concerning the Quarter Window Trim install , it is also on Greg Nichols site:

I have found a much easier way to do this (necessitated by many hours of blood, sweat and tears, plus many *$&#^@ words ;-).

With this procedure you do not have to remove the glass or seal from the car and once you get the hang of it, it only take a few minutes to install the quarter window trim.

Cut a 3-4' long piece of 24-26 gauge speaker/electric wire etc. and insert the wire into the "groove" where the trim inserts into the rubber on the upper or lower side (one at a time). Leave some of the wire sticking out of each end of the "groove".

Align the trim to it's proper position and press it in as far as you can into the "groove".
Start at one end and apply firm pressure on the trim piece and pull the wire down, or up depending on which one you are doing first (up on the upper one and down on the lower one) and work your way in slowly in one direction (end to end) continuing to apply pressure along the way as you pull (up or down) on the wire.

After you do one of them , insert both of the metal corners on the inserted trim in their proper location, then insert the wire in the other "groove"and align the other trim while making sure you "tuck" the trim into the corners before beginning the above process.

What the wire is doing is actually "opening" the "groove" to allow the "teeth" of the trim piece to engage with the rubber seal.

After you do it a time or two only take about 10-20 mins per side.

Hope that helps,

Bill Ball

I used Jager's kit today to do the rear quarters on my 89. It was a nice warm day, so I had no trouble with getting the tape to conform to the trim. Laying it down was pretty easy. No hair dryer needed. The tape fits and wraps around the trim edges very well.

The hard part came with reinstalling the end pieces. I had removed them to get the tape to go underneath them for a neat finish. Uh, the tape is a bit too thick and the corners were almost impossible to get back on. Then I discovered the tape has a thin clear layer on top. No where is that mentioned in the directions. It's not noticeable, but I snagged the surface and found that I had not gone through the tape, but just the clear layer that then peeled off very easily. The remaining layer is very thin. Still, getting the endpieces on is a chore and you risk wrecking the new tape unless you pop some of the trim out of its channel. I found this thread looking for how to get the trim back into its channel. What a pain. The channel is very tight.

Anyway, I mooched one side in the learning process. Jager includes enough extra tape for one mooch on one piece of trim, but I mooched a whole side. Nobody wants to accomodate us slow learners.
So, I ended up with one half window not done.

I'd give the result for the pieces I did do a 9.5. The appearance is close to flawless. The finish is very shiny, which probably is not exactly correct, but it looks very good. I only got a couple of tiny bubbles that I worked out.

Note the trim pieces are about $45 a side for 87-91, without the corners, versus $20 for the kit from Nicole at HookedOnCars.com. My corners were not faded.

Nicole

Hi Bill:

Thanks for the report! I'd like to see the results you got, and possibly the part where the clear lifted off.

Can you swing by some time this coming week? Then we'll work something out so you can get the other half of your window done as well.

G Man

Why not just paint the aluminum trim while on the car. Seriously, how long would it take to do a nice masking job and paint them in place? I painted mine when I had the car apart for a repaint, but I think a nice job could be done without removing the trim. I know the tape is probably easier to do but I prefer paint.

Nicole

Jim: It's all possible - the questions are how much time you want to invest, and how long you want the result to last.

The Jager solution can be applied quickly and is very resistent against scratches or other envrionmental influences. While at a first glance it may look somewhat similar to electrical tape, it is in fact a thin, elastic high tech material with a very strong adhesive, and it conforms nicelly to the shape of the trim.

Once done, there is a lot less to worry about then paint. And it does not cost any more than paint, primer, and masking materials.

m21sniper

I have the jager lock and window overlay kit. Looks really nice and only takes minutes to install.