Dudes. The connectors Audi/VW sell are WAAAAY cooler. They have hand clips in stead of those stupid clips that keep breaking. Just push the sides and it releases. There is a bottom-release connector too. ALL BOSCH

Tony just call up VW and ask for injector connectors. Eeeeeasy

 

I think the blue ones in Chros' second link are the ones. Check out the nice concertina boots also, I have those, love them. No more bends. I put quick Carl onto those conns/boots and they are now on his new harness I believe.

 

Here y'are These are on my old harness, I didn't have the concertina boots yet then.

 

The EV6 connectors, while were on the subject, are also ver nice, but they are for the Ford/Dodge round style skinny injectors. They have a "lock" AND a hand-operated release tab. Very nice, but 10 bucks each.

 

This shows the part of wiring harness that i cut open. It shows all the GND wires that run to MPIX on the bell housing cover.
You can proabbly see the moisture on the lines and inside the black plastic covering



Hard point 1... on the wiring diagrams its the square with the 1 in it. Looks solid. the wiring is really in perfect shaped for being as old as it is and the environment it sits in. It seem the weak point in it all is where it joins the connecters...injectors...knock..etc.




This is the fwd knock sesnor lead/connector. Not the one in the V, they are new. This one sits by the flappy solinoid. I measured continuity between all 3 of the pins on it...all 3 were shorting on each other. I just refurbished this one yesterday.
It may look a bit exagerated as im bending the wire back...but you can see the problem inside. The sheilding is touching the brown wire which is touching the white wire.




Tomorrow, to track down new injector connectors. Thanks for the links, great help

 

Tony,
What's the update?

 

oops, just saw this. Glad I could be of help =)

We can go drinking in May when I turn 21

 

Bump.

Tony - enquiring minds are curious... Final solution yet?

 

You know, a trip to the junk yard, and $10 later can get you a bunch of connectors. Alot of cars use this AMP-style connector. Just pick the ones that are still good. I did this with about 3 of my injector connectors and things are good.

 

Well, i havent been working on the car much the last week. Im into another project around the house, a front courtyard. The harness looks like it does in the pics above. Its all sliced open and its just "airing" out. If water was a probelm, it wont be when it all goes back together.

I bought 8 injector clips and wiring from one of the links posted on here. Thanks. 25 bucks for all 8 with shipping. They should be there when i get home tomorrow.
Ill probably stick a day into the car next week and see what happens.
Im thinking something got wet back behind the engine when i pulled the I/C hose off.
Water can do strange things to electronics!

 

I wired up all my new injector clips yesterday(great deal on Ebay BTW). Bolted it all back up.... retested continutity between every senor/wire i know of to the appropriate Box (ezk/LH). Charged the battery. Turned the Key.
No start.

Anyone have match?

Time to get out my car cover and take a step back from this SOB for a while. Ill chime in when i find anything out.

 

When helping my son with math problems that stumped both of us, we learned that the best approach was to completely start over at some point. I don't mean remove the SC and put it back to factory, but go back to square 1 as to what things can cause a no-start, make a troubleshooting checklist and go through them one by one. Obvious to a smart guy like you, but sometimes we are too smart and think we really have covered everything when we haven't. I agree with taking a step back for a day or two, then starting over from the beginning.

 

Tony I think Bill is right. How about you give the car to a local 928 enthusiast for a couple of days and ask them to troubleshoot ab initio. You should step away and have a couple of days of no-stress. A fresh pair of eyes can sometimes look at the same thing and see just the angle that the previous set of eyes have missed.

 

I still think reinstalling the 30lb injectors would be a good idea. At least switch the 24lb injectors from one side to the other.

 

I just may do that eventually.



I did this tonight. I cant let this thing sit

tested continuity/resistance LH pin 17(LH ground) to ground point MPVIII....good

then...

unplugged all injectors,

OHM meter between LH pin18 (injectors) and plug W13. this is basically the entire injector circuit from power to GND as i understand from the diagrams.

no continuity with them all unplugged. This makes sense as the injectors plug in and complete the circuit.

With the meter still on LH 18 ( as seen above, where the 2 green lines originate from the LH) and W13 (where the two red lines originate) One by one i plugged each injector in from #1 cyl to #4 cyl and read the resulting resistance one the circuit.

#1 byself: 14.4ohms (typical resistance of a single injector)
#2 is added: 7.3
#3 is added 4.9
#4 is added 3.7

I repeated this on the other side(5-7) after unplugging 1-4 .
The same results.
14.4 then 7.3 then 4.9 then 3.7 on #8 cyl

Next test i started at #1 and hooked them all up, 1 though 8 reading the cumulative OHMs on my meter.
#1 byself :14.4
#2 added: 7.3
#3 added 4.9
#4 added 3.7
#5 added 3.0
#6 added 2.5
#7 added 2.2
#8 added 1.9

Im by no means and electrician, but i dont get it? Im sure there are the EE's out there or someone with a better understanding of this than me.

This tells me that the total resistant that this circuit sees is 1.9 OHMs?
how is it that the resistance of the WHOLE circuit is less than one of the injectors by itself?

In the end I have 8 injectors of 14.4 ohms each hooked to a circuit that reads 1.9 ohms as a total resistance.
Its late and maybe im missing the obvious??