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87S4 no Start

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Old 01-13-2005, 08:22 PM
  #16  
Bill Ball
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So, Tony, what was it?
Old 01-13-2005, 08:41 PM
  #17  
Tony
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Well its not the LH computer and as john pointed out, since i have spark, the EZK is fine. Thanit came by in his S4. I pulled mine out and put it on his car and it started right away and idled fine, put it back on mine and no start


What woudl be a ball park fuel pressure would you guys try? Ive tried 40...60.. no difference as far as i can tell.

The car idled with 30lbs injectors and the fuel pressure down to 40 and as high as 55!..Ive tried both of those with the 24lbs as well. Stock is appx 57psi with 19lbs...


My next question is how do you go about tracing a short in an injector harness..thats where im heading now.
Im thinking of putting a light on each injector lead to see if each one is getting a signal its supposed to.

Im all ears!!

good news its not the LH..bad news it is now more of a PITA to figure out!

Old 01-13-2005, 08:58 PM
  #18  
GoRideSno
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There are probably better ways to trace a break in/grounding injector wire than what I am about to tell you but here is what I did. I looked first for the one most likely to have a break, i.e. loked like it had been molested the most. I then cut the rubber boot off that injector plug/wire. And there I found the problem. The casing on both wires was broken and they probably had been for some time. When I had put the plug back on the injector I had twisted it and this caused the wires to touch. I split the rubber holding the wires together up to the base of the plug and then wraped each wire wit fabric electrical tape.

HTH,
Andy K
Old 01-13-2005, 09:03 PM
  #19  
blau928
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Were you getting a signal on the crank/flywheel sensor?
Was the engine flooded?
Bulb the injector harness and crank, watching for light...
What about the shifter, is the trans all the way in P.... Try starting in N...
Are the injector harness wires on the correct injectors..?
All the vacuum lines ok and connected properly..?

Silly stuff, I know, but sometimes the silly things cause so much grief....

Good Luck,
Old 01-13-2005, 09:25 PM
  #20  
Rich9928p
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Anytime you get spark with the LH/EZK system, it is proof that the inductive engine speed sensor is functioning correctly. The EZK spark module provides a signal to the LH with the RPM information. The LH uses that signal along with other inputs to calculate the necessary pulsewidth for the fuel injectors.

So, before suspecting the LH as a cause of failure, check to see if the spark system is working.
Old 01-13-2005, 09:48 PM
  #21  
Z
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Originally Posted by Tony
Im thinking of putting a light on each injector lead to see if each one is getting a signal its supposed to.
If you do, I'd suggest getting a "noid light", which is for plugging into an injector harness to test output. Some auto parts places have them available as loaner tools, but if not they're cheap. They come for different types of injectors, so make sure you get the right kind. John or Rich would be the ones to say for sure, but I'd think just using any 12v bulb that you had laying around would be a bad idea.
Old 01-13-2005, 11:53 PM
  #22  
Scott M.
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Tony;

A grounded out Hall sensor WILL cause a no-start condition.

Did you try the test LH box in your car, AND your box in his car?? e.g. My 87 LH box works in my car but not in Eifferts...

Scott
p.s. Have any buffets lately??
Old 01-14-2005, 12:11 AM
  #23  
Tony
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Bulb the injector harness and crank, watching for light...
thats what i plan on doing and then as Z pointed out, a straight bulb woudlnt be a good idea. i plan on running a bulb to it then a set of resistors after to simulate appx 14-15 ohms then connect it to the other lead.
It should work?
Old 01-14-2005, 11:57 AM
  #24  
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So far all the injectors are getting a signal. I rigged up a litttle bulb on a long test lead, using a modifed mini fuse for a connector into the injector plug. I crank and the light flashes on each plug ive tried so far.
I had bought spome 15ohm resistors to place in series in my litle test circuit but then i measured the small bulb i had and it was appx 19ohms so i figured WTH, i may as well just hook it up and try it with out the resistors. It worked fine.

The bulb flashes as i crank on each lead.

How would the HALL SENSOR affect all this. I thought if it was faulty you get 6' of timing out and thats it but the car would still start? I have a good spark coming from each coil. I would think that If anything a bad hall sesnor would stop the creation of the spark if it was going to cause a no start...I have spark.


So how do you go about tracing or finding a bad ground/short ground in an electronics sort of way. Not cutting open a harness and looking for breaks. I dont want to go that route yet.

This chump is stumped!
Old 01-14-2005, 12:01 PM
  #25  
heinrich
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Tony I think you need to keep cranking
Old 01-14-2005, 12:11 PM
  #26  
Chris
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So have you removed any of the spark plugs ? Do you smelll gas ?

Chris
Old 01-14-2005, 12:13 PM
  #27  
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Btw .... did you make a mod for smooth idle? Like more air at idle? Perhaps keep throttle slightly depressed while cranking.
Old 01-14-2005, 12:13 PM
  #28  
SteveG
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You have way more experience than me, but . . . . if you have spark, I guess that means the alarm isn't doing its thing and shutting you down???
Old 01-14-2005, 12:57 PM
  #29  
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What about swapping back to the 30s to see if they work?
Old 01-14-2005, 01:56 PM
  #30  
Tony
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So have you removed any of the spark plugs ? Do you smelll gas ?
Tony I think you need to keep cranking

Yup i took one out for a look and it appeared failry dry..Im goign to check all that again this AM.

Honestly if i keep cranking it almost sounds as if it wants to go at times.

Im starting to think that it is flooding its self some how..
Im going to go pull the plugs again, pull the fuel pump fuse and crank it a bit. Any fuel in there should be "blown out" and the rail pressure should drop to Zero.
Gaawd this thing is starting to act like a vaporlocked IO-470 (light airplane engine). I wish i had a big screw type mixture **** on the dash!


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