Hood seal gasket?
12-23-2004, 04:33 AM
#1
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Thread Starter
Hood seal gasket?
I was looking at my friends 87 yesterday when I noticed he has a rubber seal/gasket running accross the plastic trim piece that runs the width of the engine bay right under the windshield wipers. It looks like its a rear seal for the hood to keep hot air from being pushed through the engine into the A/C vent intake? My car is an 88, does anyone know which part number this piece is?
My car has the plastic piece (that barely stays in place) but not the seal. I have also noticed that my "vent" consistantly blows warm to hot air even when set to full cold (when the A/C is not on)... typically 20-30 degrees hotter than the air temp
Would replacing this seal help my vent blow colder air, since it wouldn't suck in engine air as directly? Also would it make my car run hotter, since the airflow coming out of the engine would be slightly restricted?
Thanks
My car has the plastic piece (that barely stays in place) but not the seal. I have also noticed that my "vent" consistantly blows warm to hot air even when set to full cold (when the A/C is not on)... typically 20-30 degrees hotter than the air temp
Would replacing this seal help my vent blow colder air, since it wouldn't suck in engine air as directly? Also would it make my car run hotter, since the airflow coming out of the engine would be slightly restricted?
Thanks
Last edited by IcemanG17; 12-23-2004 at 05:18 AM.
12-26-2004, 08:49 PM
#3
I think you hot air problem is the old hot water valve that allows hot water to the heater core. It is in line on the heater hose and is a vacuum unit controlled by the AC/heater system. They go bad and allow hot water through the system constantly.
One more part to buy.
One more part to buy.
12-27-2004, 12:23 PM
#4
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While the heater valves are a common replacement part, it is also very common to have other HVAC vacuum leaks - such as the comb flap actuator - that will keep even a good heater valve from working. Loss of vacuum lets the valve open...
But you definitely do need the seal across the back of the engine compartment!
But you definitely do need the seal across the back of the engine compartment!
12-29-2004, 03:28 AM
#5
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Thread Starter
Wally
I also have a non-functioning floor (heater)flap valve...so there might be other vaccum related leaks in the car somewhere? I think the defrost-vent valves work, but even on full defrost or full vent I get some airflow out of the vent or defrost (depending on postion).
So I'll put on the hood seal, get the leaky A/C hose fixed and a fresh charge of R12....then it will be time to check the heater valve & other "flaps". I love my 928, but it sure gets hot in the summer...flip side is its great in the winter!
I also have a non-functioning floor (heater)flap valve...so there might be other vaccum related leaks in the car somewhere? I think the defrost-vent valves work, but even on full defrost or full vent I get some airflow out of the vent or defrost (depending on postion).
So I'll put on the hood seal, get the leaky A/C hose fixed and a fresh charge of R12....then it will be time to check the heater valve & other "flaps". I love my 928, but it sure gets hot in the summer...flip side is its great in the winter!
12-30-2004, 04:46 AM
#7
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I talked to DEVEK today (they did all the work on my car)...they will check it out when I get the T-belt retensioned in about a month or so....I'm sure they will fix it.....& I'm sure it will cost me too! I just gotta have my A/C
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12-30-2004, 10:12 AM
#8
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There is another way...
You can find a leaking actuator and plug that line very quickly and easily - and for free. The rest of the HVAC system will then work correctly.
Remove the side panel from the driver's side of the console. Find the bundle of small colored plastic tubes that would be by your right calf.
Use a sharp razor knife to cut the orange tube. Check the upper end - the end that disappears up into the dash - for leakage. If nothing else, you can simply suck on it. If it holds vacuum, splice the line back together with a short piece of rubber tubing. If it leaks, plug the other end - the end that runs forward to the vacuum solenoids in front of the radio. You don't need to plug the upper end.
Repeat with the blue, green and yellow lines. Don't cut the black or white lines - the black is the source, and the white is the heater valve.
It is a good idea to check the lines and connections at the brake booster first...
You can find a leaking actuator and plug that line very quickly and easily - and for free. The rest of the HVAC system will then work correctly.
Remove the side panel from the driver's side of the console. Find the bundle of small colored plastic tubes that would be by your right calf.
Use a sharp razor knife to cut the orange tube. Check the upper end - the end that disappears up into the dash - for leakage. If nothing else, you can simply suck on it. If it holds vacuum, splice the line back together with a short piece of rubber tubing. If it leaks, plug the other end - the end that runs forward to the vacuum solenoids in front of the radio. You don't need to plug the upper end.
Repeat with the blue, green and yellow lines. Don't cut the black or white lines - the black is the source, and the white is the heater valve.
It is a good idea to check the lines and connections at the brake booster first...
12-31-2004, 05:17 AM
#9
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Thread Starter
Wally
I just checked Nichols site and found the color coded list for vaccum lines and thier functions...you wrote the article! I will have to take a look at the hoses and see if I can determine the leak...it must be the yellow hose or actuator..hopefully just the hose! Its worth a look, once this damm rain stops so I can work on the car!
I just checked Nichols site and found the color coded list for vaccum lines and thier functions...you wrote the article! I will have to take a look at the hoses and see if I can determine the leak...it must be the yellow hose or actuator..hopefully just the hose! Its worth a look, once this damm rain stops so I can work on the car!
12-31-2004, 07:40 AM
#10
Under the Lift
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If you are having vacuum issues, that can cause the heater control valve already mentioned to stay open - leading to hot air all the time. The valves also fail internally.
01-01-2005, 01:42 PM
#11
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Thread Starter
Bill
After driving around in cold weather I think the heater valve is working....if I have the vent on & temp set to full cold the air coming in is fairly cold (in 45 degree weather), once I move the temp selector more to the right it gets progressively hotter, so it appears to be working? Now if I can get the warm air to flow to my feet I'll be happy! (working A/C would help too)
After driving around in cold weather I think the heater valve is working....if I have the vent on & temp set to full cold the air coming in is fairly cold (in 45 degree weather), once I move the temp selector more to the right it gets progressively hotter, so it appears to be working? Now if I can get the warm air to flow to my feet I'll be happy! (working A/C would help too)