Big Dave

I've tried each of the following to try to get those $#@$ top bellhousing bolts out, and each is failing for a different reason:

This one isn't offset enough, and because of its 6 point construction, doesn't fit right with the bolt in its current spot. I'm avoiding a 12 pt wrench because of the higher chance that the bolt head will strip.



This one isn't offset enough, either, so I can't get it completely on the bolt head.



No dice for this one, either. It doesn't have enough room with the socket on the driver's side, and it keeps slipping off of the passenger side bolt.



Should I try this kind next? I'm getting sick of going to Sears, and I'm starting to get concerned that I'm going to strip the bolt heads.



Can I just take the bellhousing out with the engine???

sublimate

Maybe one of these would do the trick?

Bill Ball

I ran into the same problem. The offset wrench fits nicely on the head of the passenger side bolt, BUT the crook in the offset hangs on the bellhousing and forces the box off the bolt head as you turn it. However, it DID work well to put the bolt back in later, as when turned the other direction there is no obstruction to force the box off the bolt head. Final solution was a 19MM flexhead Gearwrench. It's like the one you have BUT has a flex head to get the right angle and is a 5 degree fine ratchet. You have a cruder version. The gearwrench is a bit short. I extended it with a LARGE (19MM) Allen that fit the open end perfectly and gave great leverage. The Gearwrench's 5 degree ratchet was invaluable as there was room for only 15-20 degrees of motion. I can't find a source for the 19MM Allen, so you may have to do something else to extend the Gearwrench. Sears has a good price on the flexhead Gearwrench set.

http://www.sears.com/sr/javasr/produ...id=00944006000

The situation on the right (passenger) side is more ominous, with some AC lines in the way, but there is room to the far right of the mess. I used a VERY LONG 19MM box end (Harbor Freight) to reach the passenger side bolt and seat on the head. With the assistance of the "extension" this came loose. Just checked my tools - I actually used a very long 3/4" from a Harbor Freight SAE set, Item 44718. They didn't have anything that long in metric.

If yours is a 5-speed, I don't see why you can't leave the bellhousing on and just tilt the motor back a little. On AT cars, you need to remove the bracket on the top of the bellhousing that holds the Bowden cable.

Chris

You won't be able to pull with the bellhousing if the AC lines are still in situ, this limits how far forward you can move the engine.

Seeing as you are going to have to remove the intake anyway, why not do it with engine in place to make those bellhousing bolts MUCH easier to remove ? Just my 0.02c

Chris

Big Dave

The intake isn't in the way, but the A/C lines are. I've pretty much decided that they're coming out, especially since I'm going to be replacing all of the A/C rings and fixing that, too, while the engine is out.

Both bolts have been soaked with PB Blaster over the past 3 days, but I'm still getting the impression that the edges are going to get rounded off before the bolts come loose. I need to focus on using a tool that grips the sides of the bolts instead of the edges. If I strip those bolt heads....

It's so damn frustrating that I can see the bolts clearly, but I can't get a wrench squarely on them and still be able crank down on getting them loose.

Sean79 5spd

The angles and access must be different between MY's 79 and 85. I removed the air filter housing, put a large box end wrench on the bolt, slipped the longest peice of pipe I could fit (hood was still on) over the wrench and then slammed the pipe with a small sledge to break the bolt free. Had both out in under 15 min.

Sean

Bill Ball

The tools I mentioned will grip the whole bolt head and not round them. The flex head Gearwrench works well to get the proper angle on the driver side. The long Harbor Freight 3/4" is 15 degree offset and seats well on the passenger side bolt head. It is longer than the Gearwrench. Certainly, the ideal tool would be much longer than either of these so you wouldn't have to entend them, but I couldn't locate super long wrenches.

Adam C

How about a snap on flank drive?

Big Dave

Ain't heard 'o that one before. What is it?

Big Dave

I assume then that you just disconnect the bellhousing from the torque tube, correct?

Rich9928p

Yep, I agree with Sterling ... NO NEED to remove the bellhousing!!

heinrich

Dave, to get those 2 buggars out I tried everything also and ended up with two solutions (in tandem).

1. 19mm wrench with socket-swivel end.
2. Stubby 19mm, grabbed by inserting one of the claws of the stubby's other side into a very large (maybe 32mm or larger) ring spanner (wrench) to grip it. Doing this, allowed nice precise rotation of the large one to grip and apply my other hand (with something else, can't remember what) to keep the stubby from slipping off perfectly-on position.

Later I bought a very nice swivelhead breakerbar ... don't know if it might have worked.

heinrich

Btw Dave, I worked from the passenger's side.

Big Dave

I'm sick of these bolts. The offset version of this wrench grabs nicely, but isn't turning the bolts. They're on T-I-G-H-T.

I start disconnecting the bellhousing from the torque tube this weekend. Wish me luck. This and the motor mount bolts are the last items to be wrenched. After that, I just have to get the power steering hoses and the wires in the fuse panel. The radiator is out, the flywheel is unbolted from the flexplate (which will now be coming off, too, from the pinch bolt), and the crank pulley is off. Fuel lines are off, top end hoses, etc., etc. I see the light at the end of the tunnel!

Garth S

Is there any benifit to loosening the motor mounts and jacking the engine via the oil pan - or tilting the block once the TT is off: ie., anything that may change the angle of attack on these bolts?
I had once removed the upper bell housing, but cannot recall doing anything special - a long handle 1/2" ratchet and the two wrench technique as previously mentioned.