New Brakes -- Break-in or not ??
11-01-2004, 09:31 PM
#1
Former Vendor
Thread Starter
New Brakes -- Break-in or not ??
Hello everyone,
I just completed a brake job on the front of the shark:
New rotors, new pads, new sensors and new lines.
After bleeding the whole system, will this new stuff need some kind of break-in or is it all good to go.
Thanks
Paul
I just completed a brake job on the front of the shark:
New rotors, new pads, new sensors and new lines.
After bleeding the whole system, will this new stuff need some kind of break-in or is it all good to go.
Thanks
Paul
11-01-2004, 09:41 PM
#2
Addict
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That's a good question. I had my pads done about a month ago and was wondering the same thing the other day. I have been enjoying the new braking action with a little more than normal agressive driving...so I guess I am breaking them in. 
11-01-2004, 10:31 PM
#3
Rennlist Member
I'd say go out somewhere nearby and do a couple of hard stops from maybe 30mph. Pick a place where it wouldn't matter if the brakes quit working. Then inspect everything for fluid leakage. If all is well, go out and do a couple of hard stops.... stand on the brakes HARD... inspect again. If all is good, you're done! 
11-01-2004, 10:43 PM
#4
Rennlist Member
It all depends on the type of pads you installed: some call for a 'hard' break-in' as Dave noted - others should be used gently for the first 100, or so miles of in - town driving : NO hard use until bedded in, and heat cycled. The Mintex pads I installed recommended the latter IIRC - and they came out fine.
If not tossed, check the spec sheet packed with the pads.
If not tossed, check the spec sheet packed with the pads.
11-01-2004, 10:53 PM
#5
Nordschleife Master
With the new lines I'd suggest bleeding the brakes again in a week or so. There may have been some bubbles left that will collect in the pistons. (Yes, I do this.)
The bedding in depends on the brake pad. Street pads do not require this. Consult the info with the pads, if any, to confirm.
The bedding in depends on the brake pad. Street pads do not require this. Consult the info with the pads, if any, to confirm.
11-01-2004, 11:04 PM
#6
Rennlist Member
Should have said, second set of hard stops from ~70mph
Unless, of course, there is a specific recommendation against that from the pad manufacturer. I've been doing this with brakes on all types of cars for many years. If a gentle break-in is called for, then I'd still suggest you stand on them hard a few times after the break-in. You want to get the system to max pressure and get the calipers hot, so you can verify that there are no fluid leaks. There is a big difference in brake system pressure between putzing around town and doing a "panic stop", and a leak may not appear until you attempt the latter.
Unless, of course, there is a specific recommendation against that from the pad manufacturer. I've been doing this with brakes on all types of cars for many years. If a gentle break-in is called for, then I'd still suggest you stand on them hard a few times after the break-in. You want to get the system to max pressure and get the calipers hot, so you can verify that there are no fluid leaks. There is a big difference in brake system pressure between putzing around town and doing a "panic stop", and a leak may not appear until you attempt the latter.
11-01-2004, 11:17 PM
#7
Former Vendor
Thread Starter
Thank you guys,
the pads are Mintex but I didn't see any break-in recommendation on the package. But to be honest, I didn't really look for it. I'll check tomorrow.
Thanks again for the procedures.
Paul
the pads are Mintex but I didn't see any break-in recommendation on the package. But to be honest, I didn't really look for it. I'll check tomorrow.
Thanks again for the procedures.
Paul
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11-02-2004, 01:01 AM
#9
Rennlist Member
From my motorcycle racing days brake pads take a realtively short time period to break in. Get them hot, cool them off and repeat...............after 3 laps the pads are good to go; on the street do the same but for longer period of time.
How to tell?.............in my car the brakes well out perform the engine, so much so the seat belt causes shortness of breath.
Yet to feel the same with acceleration.........perhaps require added hp from SC or big bore although I'm thinkin' I'll go back to the big bore race bikes for that thrill and be contemp with the OK 928 power!!!
How to tell?.............in my car the brakes well out perform the engine, so much so the seat belt causes shortness of breath.
Yet to feel the same with acceleration.........perhaps require added hp from SC or big bore although I'm thinkin' I'll go back to the big bore race bikes for that thrill and be contemp with the OK 928 power!!!
11-02-2004, 03:32 PM
#10
Rennlist Member
bedding the brakes for racing , and sometimes for street requres some 100mph to 50mph stops successively until they are smok'in hot and you get lots of fade. then, let them cool and they are ready for life. i fixed a buddies car that had new pads and was squeeking for a few days like this. one day on the hyway beating on the brakes and they are great now and have been for 6 months with no squeeking. usually, street pads and street driving, require no "bedding". just let the pads get friendly over the first 100miles or so.
mk
mk
11-02-2004, 07:42 PM
#11
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I remember reading about the Porsche recommended "bedding in" of the brakes and it was like a 30 minute test drive involving cycling the brakes letting them cool but it is NOT in the workshop manuals as far as I can tell . I do like to be sure that the pads and rotors have an opportunity to get to know each other before I need them for a quick stop and will use them pretty hard followed by some cool down time. I will sometimes left foot brake and push on the gas pedal at freeway speeds for that purpose if I am driving to Willow with new pads.
