>A screeching belt is a smooth belt slipping. I don't see how the toothed timing belt could "screech".<

From recent personal experience, a seized water pump can do that - I don't think that is the problem here, though.

 

Wally is correct. Also a belt running right against one of the guides (I had a worn crank gear) will whine ... not screetch though.

 

Thanks for all the info,I am today checking the Idle stabilizer ,I have an identical one from my 1995 BMW M3 will this fit my Car?

I have already checked for vaccum leaks and taped all joints connectors ect.

I am going to remove the Tbelt cover and post a few Pics.

 

Also about the fans always running,I have my A/C switch OFF.

Spark plugs, spark plug wires, distributor caps etc are NEW.

 

Identical part off a BMW you say? How much?

 

The Idle stabilizer also known as ICV in BMW speak a.k.a Idle Control Valve Looks exactly the same and costs about 4000Rs or about 85 USD.

I have one with same shape all the correct ins and outs and the same Electrical plug.

 

Actually I don't have one of these on my car. but many people do, and the prices I've seen are more than double that for the Porsche part(new). Are there any numbers on the unit that you can share for comparison?

 

Sorry about the file Size! ,PIC should be seen clearly.

Now after fixing everything back,the car starts OK,but runs very rich and does not rev freely even after warming up.

Also it does not cut out as before! ,so that is solved.

I have replaced All vacc lines ,sealed off vaccum to HVAC,fitted a new fuel pressure regulator.
Fuel injectors have been cleaned recently.

My car has no CAT or O2 sensor,but it has a adjustment pot near the Brain.
I also wanted to know if anyone has adjusted their MAF,if yes how?
I read someware that you can lean out your mixture by adjusting the MAF.

Also i thank Rich from electronikrepair.com for his support in t-shooting my car.
I thank all who have replied to my Thread.

Now Rennlist is like home to me.
Murarie.

 

About the Idle stabilizer valve.
http://www.pelicanparts.com/bmw/cata.../idlevalve.jpg
It Costs 108 USD.
It looks the same.

Murarie.

 

Regards the rich condition that has appeared - is it possible that the Temp II sensor plug became loose in dissasembly for the TB check?

 

That belt is a tad close to the front .... not that it likely has a thing to do with the problem ...

 

I read someware that you can lean out your mixture by adjusting the MAF.

This is for L-Jet "vane type" Air Flow Sensors (not LH). The CO base-line adjustment near the brain is where the CO adjustment is made. To quote page 2-15 of the '87 tech book, "It is no longer possible to adjust CO on the air volume sensor in cars without a catalytic converter. A potentiometer (arrow), on which the CO level can be adjusted, is screwed on the holding plate of control units.

Idle speed CO: 0.5 to 1.5% by volume

If a car is operated without catalytic converter, make sure that adapter plug 911.612.422.00 is connected on the oxygen sensor connecting wire to avoid spreading.

 

WARNING: Once you make a single adjustment to the MAF without proper test equipment and a great set of known parameters, you may end up in an infinite wasteland of unknown parameters, and your car may never run properly again. I recommend swapping parts out to test first.

 

Now after fixing everything back,the car starts OK,but runs very rich and does not rev freely even after warming up.

Suggestions:
a) Check Temp II sensor resistance values and connections between Temp II sensor and the LH connector. If OK, go to (b).

b) remove the connector to the MAF (don't drop the metal U retainer when removing the connector), start the engine. This forces the LH into the limp home state where it uses pre-programmed fuel mixture values. If the engine runs better with the MAF disconnected, the MAF is probably bad. If no difference, or runs worse, go to (c) [BTW, the MAF sensor, like the idle speed regulator, is common with models of other cars like the BMW M5 from 1988-1992]. So it may be possible to locate a donor MAF to swap for testing purposes.]

Info from the internet, I haven't verified this: The Bosch part number 0 280 214 001 MAF is used as:
BMW 13 62 1 311 950
BMW 13 62 1 715 888
PORSCHE 928 606 141
VOLKSWAGEN 035 133 471 AC

c) check the fuel pressure regulator. Too high of fuel pressure can cause the engine to run too rich.

d) check fuel injectors. A fuel injector that is sticking open can cause too rich of a fuel mixture.

e) A failing LH control module can cause too rich of a fuel mixture and not reving freely. I can recommend a source for a rebuilt LH unit. Electronik Repair, Inc. .... rebuilding your LH BEFORE it fails gives you peace of mind. Rebuild LHs make great Christmas presents.

 

sounds like temp II ... the fans are I believe a clear sign.