multi meter recommendations
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From: Portland, Oregon
multi meter recommendations
Greetings,
Particularly to you who understand the movements of electrons.
The time has come when I need to buy some sort of multi meter and learn something about the electrical elements of the 928. I am totally a newbie in this arena. I have a 12V test light, and that's it. I have searched the archives and cannot find anything very helpful as I prepare to embark on this education and so I could use some recommendations from those of you who do not view the electrical side as the "dark side."
Any suggestions as to what I should buy, including model #, source and pricing would be very valuable. Please keep my skill level in mind.
Thanks in advance.
Particularly to you who understand the movements of electrons.
The time has come when I need to buy some sort of multi meter and learn something about the electrical elements of the 928. I am totally a newbie in this arena. I have a 12V test light, and that's it. I have searched the archives and cannot find anything very helpful as I prepare to embark on this education and so I could use some recommendations from those of you who do not view the electrical side as the "dark side."
Any suggestions as to what I should buy, including model #, source and pricing would be very valuable. Please keep my skill level in mind.
Thanks in advance.
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From: Boulder Creek, CA
I'd recommend a Fluke 29 multimeter if you can find one. I didn't see any on ebay, which isn't a huge surprise since it's a great meter. Here is a Fluke 79 on ebay, which is a step up from the 29 in that it reads true RMS AC voltage... something that will probably not be especially important to you, but the other features are extremely useful:
-*Digital and analog bar display(analog section has faster response than most)
-High precision ohms setting
-*Frequency(Hz) measurements, can be used as a tach if you can do a little math in your head. Many circuits on these cars operate from tach signals which are easy to evaluate with this setting.
-*Measures capacitance
-Diode check function
-Audible continuity checker
-*Peak hold setting, which allows you to contort into difficult spaces, take a measurement, and the measurement will remain on the meter when you disconnect the leads
-Measures current to 10 amps(more with clamp accessory)
-Accepts Fluke temperature measurement module
-*Ohms scale will not blow out if connected to power(but it will cost you a $7 fuse)
-Protective holster has stand on back for supporting meter in upright position or for hanging it from various things
-*Unit is designed to easily withstand a 6 ft drop onto concrete, WITHOUT the protective yellow holster. With the holster as shown, you would have a real tough time damaging it.
The items I've marked with asterisks are not especially common in multimeters, but IMHO are very much worth having. In particular, the Ohms scale protection will protect you from mistakes that would turn most ordinary meters into doorstops.
I swear by Fluke meters; I've oned and used several over the years and they as close to bulletproof as you're going to find. BTW, don't wrap up the leads as shown; tight kinks in the cable will shorten the life.
-*Digital and analog bar display(analog section has faster response than most)
-High precision ohms setting
-*Frequency(Hz) measurements, can be used as a tach if you can do a little math in your head. Many circuits on these cars operate from tach signals which are easy to evaluate with this setting.
-*Measures capacitance
-Diode check function
-Audible continuity checker
-*Peak hold setting, which allows you to contort into difficult spaces, take a measurement, and the measurement will remain on the meter when you disconnect the leads
-Measures current to 10 amps(more with clamp accessory)
-Accepts Fluke temperature measurement module
-*Ohms scale will not blow out if connected to power(but it will cost you a $7 fuse)
-Protective holster has stand on back for supporting meter in upright position or for hanging it from various things
-*Unit is designed to easily withstand a 6 ft drop onto concrete, WITHOUT the protective yellow holster. With the holster as shown, you would have a real tough time damaging it.
The items I've marked with asterisks are not especially common in multimeters, but IMHO are very much worth having. In particular, the Ohms scale protection will protect you from mistakes that would turn most ordinary meters into doorstops.
I swear by Fluke meters; I've oned and used several over the years and they as close to bulletproof as you're going to find. BTW, don't wrap up the leads as shown; tight kinks in the cable will shorten the life.
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From: Minneapolis
I see that Dave is ambitious. Here's the "darker" dard side:
I've used a lot of fancy stuff at the office and find that, for automotive work, the cheapest multimeter is fine. Even an analog meter. Most of the time I'm looking for five measurements:
12V
0V
13.5V (Alternator works)
0 Ohms (open)
Not 0 Ohms (not open)
Any cheapo meter (<$20) will work fine for this. And you won't freak if you drop it or the kids get ahold of it.
What a cheapo meter won't do is measure decent currents like 0.1A or more. Then I use my locally fabricated test lamp: two wires soldered to a light bulb.
I've used a lot of fancy stuff at the office and find that, for automotive work, the cheapest multimeter is fine. Even an analog meter. Most of the time I'm looking for five measurements:
12V
0V
13.5V (Alternator works)
0 Ohms (open)
Not 0 Ohms (not open)
Any cheapo meter (<$20) will work fine for this. And you won't freak if you drop it or the kids get ahold of it.
What a cheapo meter won't do is measure decent currents like 0.1A or more. Then I use my locally fabricated test lamp: two wires soldered to a light bulb.
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I swear by Fluke meters also, own several and use them in my work. But you don't need to spend $150+. I agree with Glen - a cheap meter is fine to keep in the glove box or tool box for general troubleshooting. I picked up a nice digital multimeter at Harbor Freight tools for $2.99. Went back and bought a few more to give away to friends.
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Pro
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From: SF Bay Area
Fluke units would be quite good, but no matter what, get one that goes to 10A on the current reading and preferably fused! Ask me how I know.
I have an old HP that has an averaging function that is pretty handy when reading the O2 sensor once the Ljet starts seeking.
I have an old HP that has an averaging function that is pretty handy when reading the O2 sensor once the Ljet starts seeking.
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From: Portland, Oregon
This is great info. Thanks to all who responded.
David J., PVoth and Sharkskin.
Thanks for recommending the fluke meters. I looked them up. They look like great equipment. They also go along with my philosophy of never buying cheap tools because they always let you down at the worst possible time and you have to end up buying the good stuff anyway, so why not just start with the good stuff. But, ... I think they are technically over my head at this point. Maybe when I have some experience under my belt, I will come back to them. They look teriffic, but I think I would not be able to understand the instructions, let alone be able to use them.
Gumball, Steve and Glen,
Thanks for your input too. I will get one of those basic meters and work my way up. Any particularly good or bad experiences I should consider?
Also Glen, You said
"What a cheapo meter won't do is measure decent currents like 0.1A or more. Then I use my locally fabricated test lamp: two wires soldered to a light bulb."
How is that different from a 12V test light?
If this is a dumb question it will serve to illustrate my level of electrical knowledge. If so, I apologize in advance.
Thanks for all the help guys, I really am stumbling around in the dark here (bad pun, sorry) It seems like everything I touch with my 12V test light ends up blowing a fuse.
Cheers
David J., PVoth and Sharkskin.
Thanks for recommending the fluke meters. I looked them up. They look like great equipment. They also go along with my philosophy of never buying cheap tools because they always let you down at the worst possible time and you have to end up buying the good stuff anyway, so why not just start with the good stuff. But, ... I think they are technically over my head at this point. Maybe when I have some experience under my belt, I will come back to them. They look teriffic, but I think I would not be able to understand the instructions, let alone be able to use them.
Gumball, Steve and Glen,
Thanks for your input too. I will get one of those basic meters and work my way up. Any particularly good or bad experiences I should consider?
Also Glen, You said
"What a cheapo meter won't do is measure decent currents like 0.1A or more. Then I use my locally fabricated test lamp: two wires soldered to a light bulb."
How is that different from a 12V test light?
If this is a dumb question it will serve to illustrate my level of electrical knowledge. If so, I apologize in advance.
Thanks for all the help guys, I really am stumbling around in the dark here (bad pun, sorry) It seems like everything I touch with my 12V test light ends up blowing a fuse.
Cheers
Three Wheelin'
Joined: Nov 2003
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From: Los Angeles, CA
i got a craftsman multimeter. While I do agree fluke makes good stuff, this is just something I got while I was at sears. Its got all the normal functions + temp, amp measurement, frequency, and some other goods. I think it cost me about $50 and i've been very pleased with it. The only thing I would need more than this is a backlight.
edit: this is what i've got. I think it was on-sale when I got it.
http://www.sears.com/sr/javasr/produ...ab=des#tablink
edit: this is what i've got. I think it was on-sale when I got it.
http://www.sears.com/sr/javasr/produ...ab=des#tablink
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I'm an electrial engineer with stacks of meters, scopes, logic analyzers, spectrum analyzers, etc, etc, etc. My preference in meters these days is the $2.99 unit at Harbor Freight. The have all the accuracy and features you are likely to ever need, and at that price you can buy five: leave one in the rain, run over one, have one stolen, loan one to a buddy, and still have one on hand when you need it. The most important feature of any tool or item of test equiptment its existance at the moment you need it.
Nordschleife Master
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From: Minneapolis
Originally Posted by Joe F
Also Glen, You said
"What a cheapo meter won't do is measure decent currents like 0.1A or more. Then I use my locally fabricated test lamp: two wires soldered to a light bulb."
How is that different from a 12V test light?
"What a cheapo meter won't do is measure decent currents like 0.1A or more. Then I use my locally fabricated test lamp: two wires soldered to a light bulb."
How is that different from a 12V test light?
That is a 12v test lamp. Just make my own from an "1157" turn signal bulb. Actually fairly useful. If it glows bright, there's a short. If it's dim, then there's resistance. Nice for using with motors and wiring wher a short is suspected.
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From: Boulder Creek, CA
The Fluke 87 is a VERY nice meter. I've had my meter for something like 12 years, and at the time the prices on the higher-end meters were mind-boggling. Karl, I agree about cheap meters and the value of a tool being relative to its proximity in need. OTOH some of the real cheapies I've seen have horrible display latency and crappy(if any) analog bars.
Joe, actually Fluke manuals are very easy to read and rather than confusing you they may actually be instructive. YMMV.
Joe, actually Fluke manuals are very easy to read and rather than confusing you they may actually be instructive. YMMV.
928 Barrister
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I have a Craftsman 82029 and I think I paid around $50 for it. It works for me.
And if that doesn't work, Sharkskin's Service is about a half mile away. Take it from me: that's the best electrical service in town.
And if that doesn't work, Sharkskin's Service is about a half mile away. Take it from me: that's the best electrical service in town.
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From: Portland, Oregon
Thanks to all, 
I really appreciate all the feedback. I am in awe of you guys that understand all the electrical stuff.
I will get a meter and see if I start to learn some of this. No doubt, I will be back with lots more specific electrical questions.
Cheers
JF
I really appreciate all the feedback. I am in awe of you guys that understand all the electrical stuff.
I will get a meter and see if I start to learn some of this. No doubt, I will be back with lots more specific electrical questions.
Cheers
JF