heinrich

I have a CIS with very specific symptoms. They are:

HARD start, only keeps running on the 5th or 6th try. When I turn the starter and the cold start valve fires she runs great for a couple of seconds.
Starter fluid works.
Even then, idles really low and cannot be accelerated, or will backfire
As she warms up, she starts running just fine
Drives normally except sometimes she seems to be "inhibited" on power, almost held-back, and then all oof a sudden, it's as if someone let the last 20hp out of a bag and she is normal again.
Exhaust smells like varnish

Here's what I've done
Tuned the throttle flap and checked it - perfect
Checked spark and ignition, all normal
All plugs burn nicely
New distributor cap, rotor, but old spark plugs, new wires. New O2 sens

I know you guys have a huge amount of CIS knowledge and I'm usually an LH kinda guy ... any advice on the symptoms would be very much appreciated.

checkmate1996

I'm no CIS guru but hard starts generally indicate the cold start valve. How are the more obvious things like fuel pump(s), fuel filter etc? Check out my website. I have a whole bunch of links to CIS info. Also, Jpitman2 IS a CIS guru. You may want to PM him. Good luck!

Sean79 5spd

Heinrich, you need to check your hot & cold control pressures at the control pressure regulator (WUR).

heinrich

Checkmate thanks :-) Sean I was thinking along those same lines, and thanks again for that amazing manual, that is what got me thinking again :-)

Rich9928p

Replacing the WUR on my '79 made all the difference in the world for start-up and idle speed reduction as the engine warms up.

Sean79 5spd

Hienrich, another option is to make your WUR adjustable and then set using the fuel pressure guage. I sent you some docuemnts

Dennis Wilson

My guess is the internal heaters on the WUR or thermotime switch are bad and causing the engine to run rich until heat from the engine causes the bimetal plates to cut off or reduce the fuel flow. A simple check of the thermotime switch is accomplished by pulling the connector on the cold start valve. If the problem goes away, replace the switch. To check the heater on the WUR use an ohm meter to test for proper resistance between the two connections, then test each connection for a path to ground. If either is grounded replace the WUR.

Dennis

Kevin Michael

take off air cleaner. find screw in front offuel dist. insert 3 mil allen wrench till you feel tension. turn c-clockwise quarter turn and then clockwise a sixteenth turn. this has worked on mine with the same symptoms. incorrect a/f mixes will make all systems suspicious. try this first. then look at c-start v, wur,and other systems.

GlenL

I'll go with a thermo-time switch that is not sensing that the engine is cold. Then the cold start injector is not firing to give that extra gas needed to get it going.

macreel

Heinrich... and your Auxillary Air Valve works ok, right
(not stuck partly/closed)?

Control Pressure Reg'r aka WUR might need attention. Did
Sean79 give you the Upfixin' article(Vol.7, pg.116) on
making that adjustable?

G'luck.

Steve J.

Sean79_5spd - How's about sharing the info on adjustable WUR with the rest of us? Thanks!

Sean79 5spd

Anyone that wants this information, send me an e-mail :

sean.skiffington@snclavalin.com

Remember that I am just providing info I have found on the net, you use at your own risk. This did work for me though. It was better than buying a new WUR, especially with CAD - USD exchange. You should also confirm with a fuel pressure guage that your WUR is defective. Also, I have not found any power advantage by playing with the WUR rather I have been able to set it to factory specs for optimal operation.

Sean

autochicago

Could be a number of different things. But it's like throwing darts until you get the CIS pressure gauge setup on there (not just a regular fuel pressure gauge - valve and Tee to measure control pressure vs. system pressure -- which is key to doing the diagnosis correctly). I wouldn't go arbitrarily replacing and fiddling with (expensive) CIS parts. I recommend buying a gauge set. You'll save yourself a lot of time, frustration, and potentially a lot of money by diagnosing it correctly instead of poking and prodding at this and that. I bought this one, totally fine for the purpose (doesn't come with the most comprehensive and useful set of adapter fittings, but if you play around with the configuration a bit, you can get it to work):

http://www.etoolcart.com/browseprodu...r-TA33865.html

(BTW lots of tool vendors on the web carry this same exact kit, made by S&G Tool Aid).

Dennis Wilson

Adjusting the WUR will not fix this problem. It operates on a bimetal spring which is controlled by temperature and is linear in operation. Thus if you set it for good cold operation it affects the warm running. Since Heinrich's car runs fine when warm, any cold start adjustments would throw off the warm running. Kevin, your instructions for adjusting the A/F mixture is probably just masking another problem (probably leaking injectors) and should ONLY be accomplished after all other areas have been checked.

Dennis

Sean79 5spd

Dennis is correct, if the the bimetal spring portion of the WUR is defective, adjustment will not correct the problem. Adjustment only works if the WUR has gone out of adjustment. E.g. the bimetal spring plug or the main plug that are friction fit into the WUR casting have moved out of their calibrated position.