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Well after long journey finally car up running had to resend maf sensor back once arrived all good thanks Rick.i decided to take my 15 year old kit and did i liquid wrap aluminum...
With luck (If I get my '88 running) I have a wrap job coming up. Did you wrap over the rub strips and skirts, or pull them and wrap under? How did it go?
With luck (If I get my '88 running) I have a wrap job coming up. Did you wrap over the rub strips and skirts, or pull them and wrap under? How did it go?
Karl
This is sprayed on to the car 4 coats all around, once you get tired od the color you just peel it off,i use to change color my z4 every 3 month about 15 ago.....
o got a quote to wrap the car 2200.
This is sprayed on to the car 4 coats all around, once you get tired od the color you just peel it off,i use to change color my z4 every 3 month about 15 ago.
Would you mind sharing the product and equipment details? I had mine liquid wrapped with gloss top coat last year by a shop that specializes in it, but would prefer to do it myself on our other vehicles.
Would you mind sharing the product and equipment details? I had mine liquid wrapped with gloss top coat last year by a shop that specializes in it, but would prefer to do it myself on our other vehicles.
I did my car last year with stuff from dipyourcar.com and it turned out great! Easy to do and now that I own the sprayer, it will only cost a few hundred to do it again.
Saw Bulvot's car in person at Frenzy-looked great.
So are they spraying right over the rub strips?
Curious about sunroof prep and operation after.
On mine, I think that they sprayed right over the rub strips, then went back and used a razor to cut the line so it would lay down and not bridge the gap. They masked all the rubber bits for the sunroof, but even without, it's easy to peel off of things you sprayed it onto and don't want it on. Think of it like a cheap paint job. Mask things up and go for it. But, reversible. Unfortunately, they didn't do as good of a job as I would have liked. If we connect in person, I can point out to you all of the things that I've found so far. I got what I paid for, but I wish they would have charged more and done a better job. But, for what it is, it's great. Looks fantastic from 10 feet away, and still very good from 5. And worlds better than my original paint.
It's got an automotive clear coat on top, so it can be waxed, buffed, ceramic coated, etc.
Sterling's is more brown, right? This is the color "burnt copper". Side by side, they would look quite different from each other. Mine isn't a color shift, but it does look a bit different depending on the lighting. And it has metallic flakes in it.
Here are some videos of them mixing the coating, pulling the masking off (including the sunroof trim), as well as buffing it and how it looks in the sunlight from various angles. If you look closely, you can see some items that aren't right. But, it also gives an ides of the color. It's really much brighter in person, cameras adjust a bit too much and make it hard to capture that.
One thing about the clear coat on top of the peelable paint...no one has ever guessed that it was peelable paint until I told them. It's that good. It changes the finish from being obviously plastidip, to just looking like regular paint.
I have Plastidipped my car three times using the sprayer from dipyourcar.com: burnt copper, gunmetal gray, and sea blue. It's easy and a very forgiving process. So, even an amateur like me can do it. A few things I learned:
- If you're going metallic, use a color-matched base coat. Otherwise, the metallic might look thin or flat in some areas. (Metallic flake is mixed into a clear dip).
- Apply enough coats to make it easy to peel off (four is probably right). If the application is thick enough it peels off easily, like a giant balloon skin. Too thin and removal is a royal pain and requires either applying more to thicken the coat or solvents to dissolve what's on the car.
- Stuff up the cracks. The Plastidip gets everywhere, so if you don't block your body panel gaps you will find overspray in the door jambs, under the hood, the hatch, etc. for a very long time. It is a real nuisance in tight spaces like around joints, hinges, etc. For much of my overspray I had to go back and remove with solvent, a toothbrush and a lot of elbow grease.
Sterling's is more brown, right? This is the color "burnt copper". Side by side, they would look quite different from each other. Mine isn't a color shift, but it does look a bit different depending on the lighting. And it has metallic flakes in it.
Looks great! And that is a striking color. But I imagine to have it done, especially with clear coat, it's a few grand. Even done at home, including equipment it's probably a couple grand. What is prep? Does it ruin original paint? How does it do as far as hiding scratches, chips, and peeling clear coat?
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Liquid wrap
