LemonPledge

Hello 928 Community, I am looking to start work on my TB/WP later this month. Looking for any resources or tips anyone has to offer.

A checklist on required items/liquids to have on had or even a step by step process would be very appreciative. I will be doing this work along a trusty mechanic of mine, but want to ensure this job is done correctly and that we cover everything there is while inside the car.
Thank you all for the continued support!

-Lemon
1989 Porsche 928 S4 [146,000]

FredR

Here you go:
https://928intl.com/tips/1987%20Timi...0Procedure.htm

Gary Knox

When you have Duane's procedure that Fred provided, you need nothing else!! Good luck. and enjoy the car when finished.

DaveN

That was 415 pages of AWSOME when I found that lst year.
I have a '91 but I think there was 1 or 2 bolts in the whole process that were different.
BTW Love the clone picture

Shawn Stanford

Make sure you put the TB thrust washer in facing the right way.

Petza914

Do some research on the Porken Tensioner and decide if you want to go that way or stay OEM and rebuild it. Both my 928s have Porkens.

Constantine

Another important detail is to install a good water pump, which is the Achilles heel of the TB system.

This a right of passage for all 928 owners, have fun with the journey!

Kiln_Red

Also... Evaluate ALL rollers & sprockets. The small roller adjacent to the crank is routinely overlooked. You have to remove this roller to afford enough clearance to remove the foremost timing belt cover. DO IT. You'll want to replace the front main seal now, unless you can verify that it's been replaced from your records.

Also, if rebuilding the factory tensioner, don't neglect the tensioner arm. Replace the bushings AND the pivot bolt. The pivot bolt is small and is frequently corroded. They can and do snap. Don't overlook the tensioner arm roller. The bearing lives a hard life.

Replace the oil pump gear with the improved steel unit. The foremost washer (behind the gear) should be removed when the new steel gear is used. Replace the oil pump shaft seal, too.

You can have the cam gears restored if the protective coating is still mostly intact. Otherwise, you'll need new gears. The gears should be torqued to 47 ft/lbs.

These are the big things that come to mind when I think of what may or may not be included in the write-up.

DaveN

+1 on the Porken.
I did that as it's the same unit on my 968. No gloopy rebuild and retention like the old one.

mj1pate

I printed out Dwayne’s procedure, not that it’s necessary, but having multiple pages laid out during dismantling/reassembly helped.
NOTE: when the tensioner is unbolted and pulled away, the short shaft and spring assembly at the end of the tensioner can easily lose pieces into your drip pan underneath. There is a washer that is part of the spring assembly outside the boot that easily slips off and is lost during the careful tensioner removal. Just remove the tensioner slowly with hands on either end during removal.

FredR

When I did my first TB/WP using Dwayne's write up I made a simple step by step summary check list that I used during the task to avoid having to flit through the procedure either on the laptop or with a pile of paper. That way I only had to revert to the original procedure a couple of times for affirmation.

Boher

Hi there folks. Could i follow the same procedure for my euro 1985 year model , need to do the belt and water pump also .

linderpat

Generally yes, but there are differences with the 16 v motor. Note - there are many threads and tutorials available here. do a search (using Google with Rennlist in the query) and you will find a lot of info.