Ccastro0421

Been trying to figure out what exactly might be wrong with the locking. Driver side can be unlocked and locked with key, but it doesn't do anything to passenger. Passenger door seems to be stuck? I can put the key in and turn but something seems to prevent the door from fully locking. Central Locking button does not illuminate and does nothing when pressed when the key is in any position. The driver side **** only locks and unlocks driver side. Passenger will only lock or unlock passenger, but again it seems like it can't fully lock, like something is seized maybe. Does this sound like the VI relay might be faulty? Maybe the central Locking module is dead. Replaced the fuse for the locking already. Don't know what else to look for. Windows do roll up and down, don't know if that helps though.

Ccastro0421

No sounds come from anything as well. No clunking of motors or anything. The led pulser under the locks themselves wouldn't cause a problem like this would it?

Ccastro0421

Had some time after getting back from the office. PO seemed to have places a four prong fuse into relay VI instead of a OE window lifter relay. Already ordered one. Will update once I get the new one if that fully solves my problem. Strangely did not find the additional two glass relays that were supposed to be outside the fuse box. Perhaps it was only something that was a part of the factory alarm system? Once I have time this weekend I will check around a bit some more, maybe the wire with amp fell further below the fuse box.

Petza914

I installed $40 remote power lock kits from Amazon in 3 928s. Works great, eliminates the problematic door lock actuators, and gives you remote lock / unlock functionality and remote hatch release.

Kiln_Red

I would withhold restoring power to the circuit until the right side door latch is inspected. Something is amiss if you can't turn the lock with the key. Removing the door panel is a breeze. Just take care to not destroy the door card. If you're impatient with the plastic clips, you will rip out the provisions for the clips from the door card.

To remove the door panel:
- Pry the cover off that conceals the screw for the interior lock ****.
- Remove the screw. Remove the ****.
- Turn the recessed circular portion behind the **** out counterclockwise to remove it.
- Remove the dash vent bezel. Gently pry the little tabs up that secure it to the door panel armrest.
- Open the interior handle such that you can access the screw supporting the handle bezel. Remove it & guide the bezel off.
- Open the armrest parcel compartment, unseat the 2 retaining clips for the door card insert, lift up & guide out the door card insert.
- Remove the 6 10mm armrest bolts. 1 is inside & adjacent with the parcel compartment lid, 2 are deep inside, 2 are accessed behind the door card insert, and the last is inside the armrest dash vent opening. Then, lift off the armrest.
- Remove the triangular shaped door harness bezel via its 2 small screws. Slide it forwards along the harness tube.
- Remove the 2 screws that secure the carpeted portion of the door card to the door shell.
- Use a U-shaped door panel clip tool to unlock & pry free the clips surrounding the door card perimeter & centrally located above the door card insert.
- Disconnect the interior light as you lift the door card away.

There is a body plug that conceals the Allen bolt for the lock cylinder. Remove the body plug & the bolt. Ensure that the short plastic rod is secured to the ball cup on the lock cylinder. Either fully roll the window up or remove it to remove the tamperproof plate via the screw on the door jamb, 1 on the shell facing you, and the 13mm bolt that secures it to the intrusion bar. Ensure the short plastic rod from the lock cylinder is secure to the ball cup on the metal lock rod.

If everything is in place, then disconnect the short plastic rod from either ball cup & see if you can drive the lock action of the latch by hand. If so, you have a lock cylinder issue. If not, either something is bent, bound and/or starved for lubrication on the latch.

Ccastro0421

I might be interested in doing something like that in the future. Let me know which kit you went went.

Ccastro0421

I'll be taking the door panel off this weekend to have a look at the locking mechanism. The steps are much appreciated!

Petza914

Posts 124 & 133 here - https://rennlist.com/forums/928-foru...roger-box.html

using this kit -
The kit for a 4-door car is like $5 more than the 2-door car and gives you 2 spare actuators for future replacement. Did this in 3 928s and a 944 S2. None of my 928s had the electric hatch release button so the workaround is what's in post #133. For the 944 I just tied it into the electric release switch near the hood release to trigger it.

Ccastro0421

Interesting, what did the electrical entail with the kit? Is it plug and play or does it need some additional stuff to get it working? Did you have to do some wire routing to the hatch release to get it working or is it controlled through the controller and fuses?

Petza914

Nothing about it is plug and play. You essentially have to power the controller then run wires form the controller to each door actuator and back to the hatch (if your car doesn't have the electric hatch release ****) or to the hatch release **** if it does. I add so much stuff to my classic cars that I install a secondary fuse panel near the OEM one, I power it with wires from the battery for constant 12v power and ground and then use an 80A relay to power the switched side of the new fuse panel, so depending on how much stuff I'm adding, I buy either the 6 fuse or 12 fuse version, which gives me 3 or 6 constant fused connections (door locks, usb charger with voltage gauge, auto-dimming rearview mirror with Homelink buttons, and one is used for the relay to power the switched side, etc), and 3 or 6 switched fuse connections (radar detectors, FM antennas, cameras, stereo, HVAC ball valve cutoff, heated seat controller, etc). The only place I tap into the factory fuse panel is for the relay trigger that activates the switched side of the fuse box and to flash the parking lights for the remote lock/unlock visual signaling. That prevents damaging old wires or overloading them or their fuses with extra accessories they weren't designed to power.

Since I change the seats in my 928s to hardback sport seats from 997 or 991 models, I plan out and do all my aftermarket wiring at one time while the seats are out, which makes it much easier.


All the green and blue wires are from the power lock kit

...but it all goes back together