rufrob

The shaft doesn't have any pits or corrosion. It was kept in a plastic bag and dry but dirty.

Thanks. My buddy is in Hawaii now actually but he is going back to Canada and not visiting my sad lonely self in Japan.

rufrob

Got a lot done today.
Right door lock assembly, petrol tank, fuse box grounds and all fuses cleaned. Now the right power seat and blower motor works. New crank sensor, cleaned under the intake manifold. Forgot to clean the grounds under there. Installed used power steering rack and chassis to engine ground cable. Drained the coolant from the block and flushed the block.
Next, removed the in-tank pump see if it works if not install the tank strainer, new pump and filter.
The PO cut the PS reservoir hoses so need to replace those. Need to pull the PS pump for that so I'll start on the timing belt. Remove the front calipers and rotors for proper cleaning and sanding of the rotors and install new brake hoses. New bellows for the steering rack,
That should be enough for Saturday. Sunday work and rain, Monday is a holiday so I should finish the mechanicals and start sanding the body.

rufrob

Not sure dark grey was the right color but I've had it for months in my locker.

rufrob

Not so hot today. Progress was slow though.
Intake manifold refresh and repaint, all engines grounds cleaned. The PO did clean the tank and disassembled the intank pump so it was easy to remove and install the strainer. Waiting for the new pump to arrive. Installed new power steering reservoir hoses. Reinstalled the radiator for the heat exchangers. Tired of oil all over the ground when I crank it just a bit.
The timing belt and tensioner gasket hasn't arrived yet so I'll see if it runs and start sanding until then.

rufrob

Clean the rear brakes. Sanded the rotors, cleaned the wheel, replaced the brake hoses. Power washed the underside again. Soooooo much sand and dirt. Bleed the brakes. Never seen brake fluid that dark before.

rufrob

Finally getting back to it. Steering rack boots and only and fritter change done.
Started the timing belt. Something had taken residence there. Lots of leaves and grass. Quite dirty especially the lower roller bearing. Which bearing fit them again?

rufrob

Had to go to the office this morning so I worked on the cars from noon to 5pm non stop. Finished the 928 timing belt, tested its fuel system found and fixed a leak. Changes the transmission oil on the black 996. Thought the 928'would start because before I changed the timing belt it energized the FP which is the last stage of the starting process. But this time nothing. No spark not FP. New crank position sensor so it should start.
Back to the no start check list.

karl ruiter

If the shaft on your rack is ok you can rebuild it yourself, at least in theory.
https://rennbay.com/Power-Steering/9...-Seal-Kit.html

rufrob

Thanks.
What am I doing wrong with the alarm bypass.
I jumped 15 and 87a as per instructions. It worked for a bit then stopped. I found a short in the hatch some light and just cut the wires. Could that have anything to do with it?

rufrob

Now I got spark but no tach bounce with new CPS. I'll repair the Hall Sensor connector first to see if that does anything.

rufrob

It's started!!! Yippie. Problem was the LH fuel ECU Relay. It runs poorly but lots of vacuums hoses are disconnected and there is still bad fuel in the system. Can't rev it out and smoke out my neighbors.

Hilton

Enjoying the ride! Thanks for posting.

Useful numbers for you if you have a local bearing supply so you don't have to wait on shipping:

Injector seal kit with correct S4 o-ring: 1 287 010 708
Lower Idler Arm bearings (86-95) - 6201RS x2
Smog Pump front bearing (80-95) 6203RS
Smog Pump rear bearing (80-95) B-188
Alternator bearing (rear) (85-95) 6201 2RS
Alternator bearing (front) (85-95 ) 6303 2RS
Outer Front Wheel Bearing M12649 (bearing) M12610 (race) - SKF part # BR3
Inner Front Wheel Bearing L68149 (bearing) L68111 (race) -SKF part # BR17. (Inner seal is 45x62x10 dual-lip NBR - I have Part# 101588 written down)
Throttle Armature (where the cables join on side of intake) (87-95) HK0810 RS x6
And two I'm not 100% sure of (maybe 98% - I'd need to go check the spares I have in the garage somewhere)
Front crankshaft seal: (78-95) - 60x85x8
Rear crankshaft seal: (78-95) - 90x110x9

Obviously, only bother if the bearings feel dry/crunchy, or are noisy in the case of the wheels

rufrob

The 928 moves under it own power. I forgot to bleed the ABS pump so I need to bleed the brakes again. No brakes. Its smokes but is getting better. Need to wait for a heavy rain to mask the smoke. Smells like bad fuel.

rufrob

After cleaning the fuse box relay section smoke came from the rear harness towards the battery and the FP came on with accessories. I cut and replaced the melted section of the harness. The FP still come on wth accessories from the relay. Guess I need to pull the fuse box to see if the wire is melted at the back. Now many of the electrics don't work. Should have left the fuse box alone.
Bleed the brakes again starting at the ABS pump but very little came out of the rear calipers. Any suggestions? Fronts bleed easily. At least now it has brakes.
I ran it in the rain and used mist from a garden hose to reduce the smoke. It doesn't smell bad just white and the level of smoking is decreasing. It doesn't smoke at startup anymore but begins as the engine time reach midway. I guess that's all the cleaners I put in the tank. It starts right away so that means the injectors aren't open until the engine runs. Idle is a bit lumpy but definitely improving.
At least now it's in a better position in my garage but it requires contorting to get to the fuse box.

rufrob

I inspected the back of the fuse box and didn't see any corrosion or burnt wires. So there be another short in the fuel pump wiring somewhere. For now the engine starts and idles a bit lumpy. I'll pull the plugs and check for vacuum leaks later. Brakes, power steering, engine oil and coolant levels are stable. Exhaust smoke starts about 10 mins after startup.
All the electrics work but the sunroof is stuck and a few taillights bulbs are out. Probably corroded terminals
Need to adjust the right door lock because it won't unlock.
Thursday I'll remove the ac compressor to change the oil for R134a compatible PAG oil some new drive belts and I'll be done with the front end.
80grit sand paper struggle the knockdown the hard peeling clear coat so 60grit should do the trick.