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Old 09-17-2024 | 10:11 AM
  #91  
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Originally Posted by Kiln_Red
Doesn't tell us which caps came from which head, unfortunately. 32V 928 a lot more unforgiving than other models.




Circled in yellow, rufrob.
The first should match the number stamped near the cam cap. In this case, they are mismatched 6 vs 4 on the cap.
The second number on the cap is stamped in between the 2-3 or 6-7 exhaust ports.

Funny story.. Years ago I ended up with two heads with the same number stamped between the exhaust ports. Luckily, I had kept the the caps with the heads after disassembly.
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Old 09-17-2024 | 11:14 AM
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Here is the other number that Kevin is referring to, rufrob.
Kevin, to your point, I have 2 '062' heads here right now.



The caps that correspond to this head will say 1-171, 2-171, 3-171, and so on.

Last edited by Kiln_Red; 09-17-2024 at 11:18 AM.
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Old 09-17-2024 | 11:42 AM
  #93  
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Originally Posted by Kiln_Red
Here is the other number that Kevin is referring to, rufrob.
Kevin, to your point, I have 2 '062' heads here right now.



The caps that correspond to this head will say 1-171, 2-171, 3-171, and so on.
Years ago I bought a '88. When I pulled the cam covers none of the cam caps matched. Mixed between the heads.

Sheesh.
Old 09-17-2024 | 12:32 PM
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Thank you so much.
I'll check mine tomorrow
Old 09-17-2024 | 09:19 PM
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Check and luckily the bearing caps are now on their appropriate heads. Think the hydraulic lifter is sticking. Il pour more engine oil on it.
Old 09-18-2024 | 10:42 AM
  #96  
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NOTE after installing the cams and caps and verifying there properly spaced at 113 mm on the cam points .

Make sure the crank keyway is at 3 O clock this is 45 BTDC,so the valves will not hit the pistons.

Then you can rotate the cam pulley to see if the cams are binding,
if things dont feel free.
Then it would be wise to to start loosening a few caps to see if it makes any difference,
Otherwise you could seize the cams to the head.
NOTE only loosen one cap on each cam to test,
then retighten,
and loosen the next cap in sequence.
Old 09-19-2024 | 06:10 AM
  #97  
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I did as you suggested and loosening the cap caps didn't change the resistance at all. What did was more engine oil on the cams and lifters.
Still not smooth like the right bank but better
I moved onto the right bank now so VC came off easy and so far only 1 cam cap bolt stripped. Then the rain came so I'll leave it till the weekend. Who bets I can finish it this weekend?
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Old 09-19-2024 | 11:57 AM
  #98  
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Originally Posted by rufrob
Who bets I can finish it this weekend?
This would not even be a goal, for me, at all. Your audience here is rooting for you to get it right, not drive it into work next Monday.
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Old 09-19-2024 | 06:27 PM
  #99  
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Thanks. You are all right. Do it correctly not quickly. I should take time and enjoy the journey not the destination.
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Old 09-19-2024 | 08:22 PM
  #100  
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Whoever developed those shallow triple squares should be shot!!
Old 09-20-2024 | 10:36 AM
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well maybe not shot but,
I could go with a good swift kick to the nutz.
Old 09-20-2024 | 01:08 PM
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I don't like the Allens either. In fact, my set of triple squares has backed out a many stripped Allens. Probably a higher use case for them than as-designed, in my use.

Pro tip: If you have a GOOD set of triple squares, they will bail you out for handling a stripped Allen. Just drive in the next size triple square & hit it with a cordless impact.

Cordless impacts "hit" with a different action than air, which prevents further issue.
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Old 09-20-2024 | 02:42 PM
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Not sure it's fair to blame the bolts. I think it's the person trying to back out the bolts. I've learned that the shorter the distance from the ratchet to the head of either the triple square or Allen bolt the less likely you are to damage it. In my youth I used a long extension with an Allen to remove the Allen bolts that secure the seats. The results were mixed. But, now I know to use a low profile 1/4-in ratchet with an Allen wrench to remove them. Same goes for the triple square.

And I avoid using electric tools for the bolts. I always crack them and then reach for my Milwaukee.

P.S., I also use the low profile wrench for removing cam cover bolts.

Last edited by Kevin in Atlanta; 09-20-2024 at 02:53 PM.
Old 09-20-2024 | 03:07 PM
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Originally Posted by Kevin in Atlanta
I think it's the person trying to back out the bolts.
Agreed.. But, by the time I arrive, the damage is done. In that case, triple squares/extension bar & hammer/cordless impact wrench for me.

I haven't stripped one out, personally, in quite a while.
Stripped or not, I cannot even remember the last time I drilled or ground one. THAT is how effective my technique for fetching a stripped one is.
Old 09-20-2024 | 03:30 PM
  #105  
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Originally Posted by Kiln_Red
Agreed.. But, by the time I arrive, the damage is done. In that case, triple squares/extension bar & hammer/cordless impact wrench for me.

I haven't stripped one out, personally, in quite a while.
Stripped or not, I cannot even remember the last time I drilled or ground one. THAT is how effective my technique for fetching a stripped one is.
Yep. But, unlike you I reach for my drill when I am confronted with a stripped triple square. So satisfying to unscrew the remains by hand. :-)

And don't get me started on the low profile starter bracket allens. Drill baby drill.

My mechanic taught me tap the allen wrench socket tip into the bolt and press down as I turned it counter-clockwise. Sage advice.

I add anti-seize to the surface facing side of allens.


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