Brake warn Bypass?'(s)...
06-23-2004, 02:34 AM
#1
User
Thread Starter
Brake warn Bypass?'(s)...
Well.
Unless I have recieved two bad sets of MC sensor/switches - 2 each mounted on the 82' MC -and one used set I have either a really slow MC leak into the Vacuum booster or some bad wiring.
I am beyond tired of looking at a blinking exclamation point and blinking brake pressure warn indicator.
The brakes are great in appearance and performance with no leaks front to rear, flushed and bled, no pulling what-so-ever. except for the possibility of the vacuum booster leaking.
Till I procure the new MC with attached - NEW- switches- probably at the end of August I would like to stop the blinking lights by isolating and disabling the brake warn circuit(s) and to preclude any advice other than achieving that goal no matter how well intended let me just say "DON'T BOTHER". O K ?
First, are these comparative switches or seperate bleed down, pressure loss switches?
Second, will simply pulling the rubber boots and three prong connectors defeat the warn system without causing other problems? In this case I'm hoping to fool the sytem into registering a balanced system wether it's comparative or pressure sensitive -bleed down-.
Or.... . Can I make a dual connector block and tie all the correct wires together? Essentially, fooling the system again. If the later, does anyone know if the switch itself is the ground point for the dual circuits?
TIA
Unless I have recieved two bad sets of MC sensor/switches - 2 each mounted on the 82' MC -and one used set I have either a really slow MC leak into the Vacuum booster or some bad wiring.
I am beyond tired of looking at a blinking exclamation point and blinking brake pressure warn indicator.
The brakes are great in appearance and performance with no leaks front to rear, flushed and bled, no pulling what-so-ever. except for the possibility of the vacuum booster leaking.
Till I procure the new MC with attached - NEW- switches- probably at the end of August I would like to stop the blinking lights by isolating and disabling the brake warn circuit(s) and to preclude any advice other than achieving that goal no matter how well intended let me just say "DON'T BOTHER". O K ?
First, are these comparative switches or seperate bleed down, pressure loss switches?
Second, will simply pulling the rubber boots and three prong connectors defeat the warn system without causing other problems? In this case I'm hoping to fool the sytem into registering a balanced system wether it's comparative or pressure sensitive -bleed down-.
Or.... . Can I make a dual connector block and tie all the correct wires together? Essentially, fooling the system again. If the later, does anyone know if the switch itself is the ground point for the dual circuits?
TIA
06-23-2004, 02:39 AM
#2
Nordschleife Master
Just pull one of the plugs off of the switchs on the MC.
It'll stop the idoit lights.
Trust me on that, I ran down the road like that for around 9 months untill I figured out exactly what the PO did.
It'll stop the idoit lights.
Trust me on that, I ran down the road like that for around 9 months untill I figured out exactly what the PO did.
06-23-2004, 04:02 AM
#4
Addict
Rennlist Member
Rennlist Member
Join Date: Apr 2004
Location: pretending to be a wannabe
Posts: 2,129
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
I hope the matched pair factor doesn't apply here, I have two new switches waiting to go in mine from different manufacturers. Guess I'll find out soon enough. I discovered the PO's bypassing of the lightshow early and my mechanic traced it to faulty switches, brakes OK. I'm tired of the flashing too, but I leave it so I won't keep blowing off the repair. The switches are seeping a bit of fluid and I add to reservoir every couple of weeks, so I'll be happy to get it done
06-26-2004, 10:29 PM
#6
User
Thread Starter
VU,
Tried removing just one set of switch wires...no joy.
Removed the second set of switch wires...no joy.
Put the first set of switch wires back on...no joy.
Swapped front and rear switch wires -just in case-... no joy.
Pulled the reservior pressure cap switch wires...no joy.
Pulled all of the wires...no joy.
Will try a battery cable removal and hope the system resets.
Otherwise I'll wait till the New MC with NEW switches installed cures the problem, if not I'm going to be one of those A%#hole PO's everyone writes about.
Tried removing just one set of switch wires...no joy.
Removed the second set of switch wires...no joy.
Put the first set of switch wires back on...no joy.
Swapped front and rear switch wires -just in case-... no joy.
Pulled the reservior pressure cap switch wires...no joy.
Pulled all of the wires...no joy.
Will try a battery cable removal and hope the system resets.
Otherwise I'll wait till the New MC with NEW switches installed cures the problem, if not I'm going to be one of those A%#hole PO's everyone writes about.
Trending Topics
06-26-2004, 11:03 PM
#8
Nordschleife Master
I assumed you cycled the key on to off and back again between each position?
Cycleing the key was all it took for my car to clear it's memory.
If that didn't "fix" it, I'll bet you've to a problem other than the switchs.
Oh, the other thing. DO NOT leave one of the switchs installed if it leaks. They are unpredictable as to when and if they will fail completely. You'll end up o the side of the road with no brakes. This seems to happen only if it's raining. Don't ask me how I know.
Cycleing the key was all it took for my car to clear it's memory.
If that didn't "fix" it, I'll bet you've to a problem other than the switchs.
Oh, the other thing. DO NOT leave one of the switchs installed if it leaks. They are unpredictable as to when and if they will fail completely. You'll end up o the side of the road with no brakes. This seems to happen only if it's raining. Don't ask me how I know.
Last edited by ViribusUnits; 06-26-2004 at 11:22 PM.
06-27-2004, 12:19 AM
#9
User
Thread Starter
No leaks. They are a new matched set -better not leak!
Have not jumped the connectors yet, it is on my list -original post-.
The key was cycled on/off -slow count- twice with each wire change.
Have not jumped the connectors yet, it is on my list -original post-.
The key was cycled on/off -slow count- twice with each wire change.
06-27-2004, 09:31 PM
#10
Rennlist Member
You HAVE to disconnect the battery to remove this warning....BTDT. Once gone, disconnection one plug from one switch will stop it coming back.
jp 83 Euro S AT 48k
jp 83 Euro S AT 48k
06-28-2004, 12:23 AM
#11
John,
It sounds like you have ruled out all the possible input possibilities, so the next area to check should be the warning control box. Maybe someone at Hallet or Wichita will have an 82 that you could try swapping. I have an idle 78 but they changed the box in 79.
Dennis
It sounds like you have ruled out all the possible input possibilities, so the next area to check should be the warning control box. Maybe someone at Hallet or Wichita will have an 82 that you could try swapping. I have an idle 78 but they changed the box in 79.
Dennis
06-29-2004, 12:46 AM
#12
User
Thread Starter
Dennis,
Thanks. I'm going to wait on the MC with new switches.
I'll hook the connectors back up then and if the fault clears, great!
If not, I'll just disconnect the connectors again. I'm burnt out on tracing circuits looking/testing for bogus faults.
Toast I tell ya'.
VU, Alex, Dave,
John Pitman hit it on the head but it still took two tries for the fault to clear WITH the connectors pulled.
Thanks all.
Thanks. I'm going to wait on the MC with new switches.
I'll hook the connectors back up then and if the fault clears, great!
If not, I'll just disconnect the connectors again. I'm burnt out on tracing circuits looking/testing for bogus faults.
Toast I tell ya'.
VU, Alex, Dave,
John Pitman hit it on the head but it still took two tries for the fault to clear WITH the connectors pulled.
Thanks all.
07-13-2004, 02:22 AM
#13
User
Thread Starter
Well it only took me two full (FOOL) weeks to realize that when you pull the connectors to the switches you have sucessfully eliminated a flashing light and pod warn.
One other major benefit (sic) is that you also eliminate your brakelights completely.
8 months VU? And the Polizei didn't nail you?
And now a word on my reasoning ability....Duh.... .
I had stopped street- racing since my last post on this topic due to the 4th of July holiday with it's holiday jump in police patrols and haven't street cruised at night since then.
While looking over Zack's White 81' this evening I decided to look at his MC , reservior, switch area and as always when under the hood I started pushing on electrical connectors to ensure they are tight and that's when it dawned on me ... I checked immediately, guess what? ... I've been driving for 15 day's without brakelights ... what a butt head!
Next thing you know I'll be trying to steal hubcaps off of moving cars, or,
maybe play a round or two of Russian Roulette with a .45, auto.
One other major benefit (sic) is that you also eliminate your brakelights completely.
8 months VU? And the Polizei didn't nail you?
And now a word on my reasoning ability....Duh.... .
I had stopped street- racing since my last post on this topic due to the 4th of July holiday with it's holiday jump in police patrols and haven't street cruised at night since then.
While looking over Zack's White 81' this evening I decided to look at his MC , reservior, switch area and as always when under the hood I started pushing on electrical connectors to ensure they are tight and that's when it dawned on me ... I checked immediately, guess what? ... I've been driving for 15 day's without brakelights ... what a butt head!
Next thing you know I'll be trying to steal hubcaps off of moving cars, or,
maybe play a round or two of Russian Roulette with a .45, auto.
