Matt D 928

I have a 1982 4.5 928. I don’t have the right tools to access the bolts on the intake runners. I know it’s 13mm , but what attachments do you have to get access to remove the bolts? The angle socket I have is too big and gets caught on the runner. It also looks like I have to remove the distributor to get one of the bolts out. Thank you for the help.

Mrmerlin

get a 13mm 1/4 inch drive universal socket with a 12 inch extension

TEKTON 1/4 Inch Drive x 13 mm Universal Joint Socket | SHD08113

at amazon

Matt D 928

Thank you, I just ordered the socket on Amazon. Now back to everything else that is broken.

Petza914

Once I got mine out, I replaced them with stainless socket cap screws and now my ball end T-handle wrench can reach all of them when I need to get to them again. Install new gaskets when you put them back.

Mrmerlin

Pete you should know the stainless bolts are not as strong as the carbon steel,
and thus easier to strip out the heads with a ball end tool.

NOTE a ball end tool is only contacting a small surface area in the cap screw head ,
and making these bolts tight and loosening them later could result in the heads becoming stripped,
and also rounding off the tool,thus making removal very difficult.

NOTE a ball end tool is not for initial loosening or final torquing ,
and using the softer stainless cap head bolts almost guarantees you will have problems later

NOTE the 13mm cap screws will offer the best clamping and removal ,
and are easily removed, installed/ tightened with the tool suggested.

Petza914

Appreciate it, but the bolts have anti-seize on them and have been in and out 3 times over the last 9 years without issues.

hacker-pschorr

Those are valid points, however, the torque spec of those bolts is only 11 ft-lbs.

buccicone

And then when you strip the hex because of weaker steel, have fun!

Petza914

Not worried. As Hacker says, super low torque spec and I've had them out a few times over the past decade.

Use the same bolts on my 997 exhaust with copper anti seize and no issue when I've had to pull a heater there either and much easier to get the tool onto the fastener. Not ever dealing with risted fasteners out-benefits the softer stainless metal for stuff like this.

Only time I reinstall an original steel fastener is when it's a hardened steel like a seat bolt, seatbelt mouth, etc
​​​​​otherwise any fastener I remove for anything gets replaced with stainless. I should sell old metric fasteners by the pound to members. The longer I keep the car the easier the maintenance becomes.

Rusty bolts suck!