When you click on links to various merchants on this site and make a purchase, this can result in this site earning a commission. Affiliate programs and affiliations include, but are not limited to, the eBay Partner Network.
Took the pressure plate apart. Throw out bearing is on good shape. The spring washer not so much. It was installed concave side up and it is broken.
More pictures.
Thrust washer rusted in place. Needed a tap to move it. Face is severely worn. The fingers in all their glory. The spring washer behind it. All show unexpected wear.
Flip side of thrust washer.
New parts and Porsche high pressure grease will be your friends.
I'm convinced that most of the synchro wear in the early transmissions was caused by the nimrod who changed the first clutch....
In your case, with the front disc dragging, the synchros had a hellish life.
New parts and Porsche high pressure grease will be your friends.
I'm convinced that most of the synchro wear in the early transmissions was caused by the nimrod who changed the first clutch....
In your case, with the front disc dragging, the synchros had a hellish life.
That was my takeaway. I firmly believe the clutch trashed the synchros. All it took was 10k miles.
New parts are on the way and high pressure grease is on the shelf.
This has been an interesting lesson on what not to do.
That was my takeaway. I firmly believe the clutch trashed the synchros. All it took was 10k miles.
New parts are on the way and high pressure grease is on the shelf.
This has been an interesting lesson on what not to do.
While I do not have any current knowledge of what they sell, 928 R Us used to sell rebuilt clutch discs that were thicker than the stock discs. This additional clutch disc thickness made getting the intermediate plate to lift completely "free" of the front clutch disc almost impossible. And if you found an intermediate plate with enough wear on the "H" stops to get the front disc to not drag, then the intermediate plate would travel too far to the rear and not allow the rear disc (also thicker) to completely release.
I bought a set of these discs and could never get 100% clutch release and had to replace them with factory discs. Tried them on a couple of different vehicles and finally gave up.
....Apparently, Fichtel and Sachs, Porsche, knew what they were doing, when they designed and built these clutch pieces....
As I mentioned above, any clutch drag is absolutely hell on synchros....which cost way more than any set of clutch discs.
What a miserable life this clutch has suffered through. Mark A. pointed out the trust washer locating nub is gone.
Good grief.
Locating nub has been worn away
The latest factory T/O bearings have no locating tab...especially important to properly lube. These T/O bearings are also a bit different dimensionally, making installation and removal a bit tighter.
There's a post somewhere on this Forum where someome took apart a clutch with one of these latest T/O bearings, whichk had the thrust washer and circlip destroyed, from a lack of lubricant.
Factory high pressure grease on the side which touches the pressure plate and on the circlip side, plus the circlip, itself.
The TO bearing still has the the groove for the nub.
Interesting.
Thanks for the advice on all the areas that need the special grease. A couple i did not know about.
Kevin
A failed, unlubricated clutch assembly is a fantastic textbook for where lubrication is necessary.
I didn't learn what to do from a school, a textbook, or the Porsche Workshop....I was blessed by people that taught me the basics of mechanical things, along with a very logical mind.
The kind of corrosion you are seeing is a sign of metal being ground into a fine powder...
Anyplace you see this is "crying out" for lubrication...or needs to be tightened.
I learned this when I was 15 years old, working at a place with tractors and trailers. Wheels with corrosion coming out from under the lugnuts are invariably loose, grinding up fine particles of metal, which "rust" very quickly. To this day, I always look at big rigs traveling in the same direction as I'm going: If there is rust coming out from under the lug nuts, I'm moving away from that big rig.
The nose of the release bearing is wider.
The thrust washer is thicker.
The thicker thrust washer impedes my ability to get the snap ring on.
For grins I put the the concave washer on the old release bearing and used it. I could actually see the groove when I pressed the pressure plate down.
I'm may have to use a press to put it together. I've never had to do that.
It fits... tightly.
As this job was previously done by a rookie 928 person, make sure you have the proper release arm. It must be "flat" (no crown like a '09 arm) where the arm and the bearing contact each other.
It fits... tightly.
As this job was previously done by a rookie 928 person, make sure you have the proper release arm. It must be "flat" (no crown like a '09 arm) where the arm and the bearing contact each other.
It is flat.
The way it came to me was the exact opposite - I've never seen a clutch setup that loose.
The way it came to me was the exact opposite - I've never seen a clutch setup that loose.
Kevin
There was a bunch of metal removed from the fingers and the thrust washer. Not to mention that when the spring washer split and went flat, there was additional room there, also.
There should have also been one or two thin washers between the T/O bearing and the spring washer.
Heh...This job probably made it past the warranty period; just need a few synchros and shift sleeves.
No shims and no spacers. That's why it was so loose.
This is how things looked when I took off the clutch. Thrust washer stuck in the snap ring. See the gap? Tapped the thrust washer you can see that ain't right.
And then there's the angles of the fingers New PP fingers 1 3/4 above the deck. Old PP 1 3/8 advice the deck
Hard to understand it all but the differences add up to the larger gap on the old PP.
Cluster.
Last edited by Kevin in Atlanta; 08-09-2023 at 10:22 PM.
08-06-2023, 03:13 PM
