S4 auto Trans secondary pump seal leak?
#1
Three Wheelin'
Thread Starter
S4 auto Trans secondary pump seal leak?
So, Ive been chasing a "pan" seal leak, but it looks like the leak is right here, at the picture below. The bottom external recessed areas of the seal cover is wet with fluid and the top of the trans lip that the pan and seal bolts to has fluid on it. Of course, the fluid drips down onto where the pan seal is and down from there. The bowden cable, bowden seal are factory new and totally dry. The overflow hose at the top of the reservoir is good and that area is dry.
Is this seal replacement essentially removing the circlip, the cover, replacing the seal and then reverse?
Thanks!
Is this seal replacement essentially removing the circlip, the cover, replacing the seal and then reverse?
Thanks!
#2
Former Vendor
Yes.
#4
Former Vendor
Well, I'm a bit too confused to intelligently answer your questions.
Your photograph is of the B2 piston cover, but your parts diagram is of the secondary oil pump pieces.
If your leak is at the cover you have pictured, you need an O-ring, part # 005 997 704 8 (Porsche or Mercedes use the same part number) and my first answer is correct.
If your leak is at the secondary oil pump, you will need some different pieces.
However, truthfully, the vast majority of leaks, in this area, come from the pivot pin for the kickdown lever. It's a small pin, just above oil pan gasket level, between the kickdown cable and the B2 cover you have pictured. It has a tiny O-ring, which is a BITCH to change, even when the transmission is disassembled.
Clean the area around this pin and apply a small dab of Drei-Bond around and down into the top of the pin (seals faster in the presence of oil.)
Magical stuff....just don't leave the tube open for more than the time it takes to get out a small dab out.
Your photograph is of the B2 piston cover, but your parts diagram is of the secondary oil pump pieces.
If your leak is at the cover you have pictured, you need an O-ring, part # 005 997 704 8 (Porsche or Mercedes use the same part number) and my first answer is correct.
If your leak is at the secondary oil pump, you will need some different pieces.
However, truthfully, the vast majority of leaks, in this area, come from the pivot pin for the kickdown lever. It's a small pin, just above oil pan gasket level, between the kickdown cable and the B2 cover you have pictured. It has a tiny O-ring, which is a BITCH to change, even when the transmission is disassembled.
Clean the area around this pin and apply a small dab of Drei-Bond around and down into the top of the pin (seals faster in the presence of oil.)
Magical stuff....just don't leave the tube open for more than the time it takes to get out a small dab out.
Last edited by GregBBRD; 07-21-2023 at 03:02 PM.
The following users liked this post:
gazfish (07-23-2023)
#5
Three Wheelin'
Thread Starter
Well, I'm a bit too confused to intelligently answer your questions.
Your photograph is of the B2 piston cover, but your parts diagram is of the secondary oil pump pieces.
If your leak is at the cover you have pictured, you need an O-ring, part # 005 997 704 8 (Porsche or Mercedes use the same part number) and my first answer is correct.
If your leak is at the secondary oil pump, you will need some different pieces.
However, truthfully, the vast majority of leaks, in this area, come from the pivot pin for the kickdown lever. It's a small pin, just above oil pan gasket level, between the kickdown cable and the B2 cover you have pictured. It has a tiny O-ring, which is a BITCH to change, even when the transmission is disassembled.
Clean the area around this pin and apply a small dab of Drei-Bond around and down into the top of the pin (seals faster in the presence of oil.)
Magical stuff....just don't leave the tube open for more than the time it takes to get out a small dab out.
Your photograph is of the B2 piston cover, but your parts diagram is of the secondary oil pump pieces.
If your leak is at the cover you have pictured, you need an O-ring, part # 005 997 704 8 (Porsche or Mercedes use the same part number) and my first answer is correct.
If your leak is at the secondary oil pump, you will need some different pieces.
However, truthfully, the vast majority of leaks, in this area, come from the pivot pin for the kickdown lever. It's a small pin, just above oil pan gasket level, between the kickdown cable and the B2 cover you have pictured. It has a tiny O-ring, which is a BITCH to change, even when the transmission is disassembled.
Clean the area around this pin and apply a small dab of Drei-Bond around and down into the top of the pin (seals faster in the presence of oil.)
Magical stuff....just don't leave the tube open for more than the time it takes to get out a small dab out.
thanks!
The following users liked this post:
GregBBRD (07-22-2023)
#6
Three Wheelin'
Thread Starter
So I cleaned the passenger side of the transmission so that it was oily-film free and sealed the kickdown pivot feed thru hole with Dreibond. The morning after (and with no driving) there was still a drip. The sealed up pivot feed thru hole seemed dry. But the area just underneath that plate showed pooling fluid, as seen thru this mirror.
#7
Three Wheelin'
Thread Starter
That seal that Greg correctly identified the part number for did the trick for stopping the B2 cover seep. Actually more than a seep. I discovered that trans fluid had managed to stream back into surface areas behind the transmission while the car was driven.
In a different post, a simple process was described for replacing the seal, involving pressing the cover itself inwards and prying the c-ring out, then carefully removing the cover.
I can only add that the cover does press inward easily, with a bit of patience. Once pressed in, the edge of the c-ring isn't hard to leverage out.
I started another thread including a video posted by a mechanic that illustrated all the external facing leak points of the 4-sp transmission. (Greg, did you know this guy?) These are not hard to solve particularly with the transmission on a pallet, as mine was not long ago.
In a different post, a simple process was described for replacing the seal, involving pressing the cover itself inwards and prying the c-ring out, then carefully removing the cover.
I can only add that the cover does press inward easily, with a bit of patience. Once pressed in, the edge of the c-ring isn't hard to leverage out.
I started another thread including a video posted by a mechanic that illustrated all the external facing leak points of the 4-sp transmission. (Greg, did you know this guy?) These are not hard to solve particularly with the transmission on a pallet, as mine was not long ago.
Last edited by mj1pate; 08-19-2023 at 12:56 PM.
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#9
Rennlist Member
Quote from Michael: "I started another thread including a video posted by a mechanic that illustrated all the external facing leak points of the 4-sp transmission. (Greg, did you know this guy?
Link??
Link??
Last edited by Gary Knox; 08-19-2023 at 04:35 PM.
#13
Three Wheelin'
Thread Starter
#14
Former Vendor
#15
Three Wheelin'
Thread Starter