mj1pate

we’ll, it doesn’t like 120psi!
still looking for an intrepid mechanic in the region, wiling to try a splice.

FredR

I looked at that joint when I removed the ac compressor for repair and whereas the crimp can be removed with a Dremel I failed to see how it could be crimped in-situ. Maybe the hard line supports can be released to give more flexibility? I believe it has been done but difficult to see how.

worf928

This is what I use to replace the hose section on the engine bay h/p line (engine in or engine out):

https://www.mastercool.com/product/71500/

Ferrules and bulk A/C barrier hose available from many places.

mj1pate

Thanks Worf. I know this question sounds redundant. There’s enough space between the hose and the inner fender wall to fit the crimper?
thanks…
oh, do you own it? Would you rent it? (~$700 new)

FredR

You can get Chinese knock off's for about $130 on Amazon but no idea if they are any good.

I am baffled as to how Dave can get in there to use such tool in the available space but as I stated earlier I remember reading about it being done.

Eplebnista

1. I am near BWI airport in Maryland and have a sniffer if you want to fill with 134a
2 I brazed a fitting on the hard line (#7) and info on how that is done is here
3. Chinesium is your friend - you can get a hydraulic hose crimper from Amazon for $140. Mastercool tools are awesome but there are consumer grade tools out there for dopes like us.

mj1pate

So there is an addendum to my escaping noise findings. Again, all I am using is the conventional mechanics stethoscope.
I’ve discovered the front of the compressor has a more distinct escaping air sound. I’ll remove it and pressure test it on the bench.
There is an “air” noise along the fender well as I stated. And that could be the pressure hose flex segment, But it could also be the ear-next-to-the-sea shell effect if the noise generator is the compressor seal. I’ll test the compressor first.

mj1pate

Thanks!
yeah, it’s like my Ryobi tools are great. I can evangelize them all day long for home use. But if I talked a pro into buying one to build a home he/she would curse me in their nightmares.

Eplebnista

A length of garden hose or heater hose held to your ear is also a great hiss detector.

The compressor seal needs some oil behind it to work. i assume you drained and refilled it. If you did, put a 12 mm on the center bolt and give it a few clockwise rotations to circulate the oil.

Petza914

For future reference, an ultrasonic leak detector like this is a great tool to have in your arsenal. It can "hear" and pinpoint leak sources that are hard for human ears to discern. Works great for A/C and cooling systems.

Combined with my AirLift vacuum fill tool, it's how I found my water bridge coolant leak.

INFICON 711-202-G1 Whisper...

worf928

The short answer is NO. But, if you take some stuff off then yes.

The engine-bay line has to be loose. There are two cushioned P-clamps that fix it to the engine bay cavity. Those have to be unfastened. That will get you just enough movement of the line once you've removed other stuff.

Upper radiator hose, coil, cap, rotor, timing belt cover have to be removed. I suspect that it is also necessary to remove the radiator, but I've only ever done it with the radiator out along with the sheet metal air deflector between the radiator and engine bay.

I might not have listed everything. Omissions should be obvious and pretty trivial.

Usually, all the connections on that hard line are loose ('cause I'm doing A/C) so once the p-clamps are loose that line is pretty 'floppy.'

With all that stuff removed there's just enough room to get the Hydraclamp in place. It's actually harder to Dremel-off the old ferrule (without leaving witness marks on other engine bay bits.)

As I mentioned, new ferrules and barrier hose are available (IIRC the hose is #8RB but don't take that to the bank.)

Putting it back together must be done thoughtfully. If the r/d-end isn't clocked within a few degrees of perfect you are !@#*ed because barrier hose will not twist much.

My procedure is to do the r/d end first. Attach the 1/2-rebuilt hose to the r/d. Slip the other end onto the hard line and mark the hose and hard line. Then remove the r/d end so that you have working room. Line up the marks and crimp the hard-line end. Then work it back around the condenser to the r/d.

Yup. I use it frequently. If you were nearby I'd just come over. As it is, I'm not sure I want to get into the loaner business. But, there might be other sources nearby to you.

mj1pate

thanks Worf, I’m on it!

Quote:

Originally Posted by Eplebnista

A length of garden hose or heater hose held to your ear is also a great hiss detector.

thanks! Yes the compressor has 6 oz in it, I may be adding 2 more.

Quote:

Originally Posted by Petza914

For future reference, an ultrasonic leak detector like this is a great tool to have in your arsenal. It can "hear" and pinpoint leak sources that are hard for human ears to discern. Works great for A/C and cooling systems.

I’ve been looking for an “ear” recommendation. Thanks!