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the S4 is running again after the intake refresh so moving back to the '79.
while doing the T belt on the '79 I decided to tidy/paint the engine compartment. doing this with the engine in place is difficult and I'd like to do it properly, so I've decided to pull the engine. which got me thinking.....
I have a very rough (pink) RH drive 'parts' car with an M28-11 engine and 30k km on the car. so now I'm thinking just pickle the original engine and put in the fun one. both are K-jetronic so pretty much plug-n-play.
I don't know a lot about the euro engine other than a friend whom I trust saw it running a couple years before I bought it and it wasn't run until I got it. I could turn it over but not run it due to a stripped timing belt and a cooked 12-pin harness. my concern is that the block could have been frost damaged at some point. so I'd like to rule that out before moving ahead with a refresh and installation in the '79.
my thought is to rig up block-offs for any coolant openings, pressurize the system with air, prob through a schrader valve in one of my block-offs, and check for leaks.
before you waste any time with a rig,
just inspect the upper edges of the HGs,
look inside the V,
if you see any white crusty deposits then its time for new HGs this test is simple.
OR if the engine has original HGs then they need to be replaced.
NOTE this isnt really a need to test for leaks,
its rather your knowing that if the HGs are older than 25 years / original then its time they were replaced.
Especially if your removing the engine.
before you waste any time with a rig,
just inspect the upper edges of the HGs,
look inside the V,
if you see any white crusty deposits then its time for new HGs this test is simple.
OR if the engine has original HGs then they need to be replaced.
NOTE this isnt really a need to test for leaks,
its rather your knowing that if the HGs are older than 25 years / original then its time they were replaced.
Especially if your removing the engine.
thanks for the input. I will certainly be giving the whole engine a careful inspection, visual. leakdown, etc. but my concern is cracking of the block due to freezing ( easily possible in the climate here ) and I don't know of a way to do that other than what I described.
If your looking for leaks plug up as many of the hoses as possible and pressure test the system,
usually the block core plugs dont cause problems
BUT stored with bad coolant in subfreezing temps could be an issue
Pull the engine and pull the heads and inspect the bores. 90 % of the parts engines have flaws here. If good rebuild it.
If front ended, the first part that should break are the holder of the van and the ac compressor and the alternator. But that’s such a big impact, the car would be totaled.
Pull the engine and pull the heads and inspect the bores. 90 % of the parts engines have flaws here. If good rebuild it.
If front ended, the first part that should break are the holder of the van and the ac compressor and the alternator. But that’s such a big impact, the car would be totaled.
to be honest, not looking to get that deep into it. I can do a leakdown, scope the bores, etc., but really just aiming for a refresh and run it.
the pink car with the M28-11 hasn't been hit so no issues that way.
to be honest, not looking to get that deep into it. I can do a leakdown, scope the bores, etc., but really just aiming for a refresh and run it.
the pink car with the M28-11 hasn't been hit so no issues that way.
I'm not convinced that anyone ever wants to "get that deep", but wishing for a 40 year old engine one can "plop" into a car and expect to run isn't very realistic.
I'm guessing that you are going to have to fuss around with the fuel injection system (from years of sitting) and the timing belt area...once those pieces are removed, you are about 2 hours from having the heads off.
And with the heads off, it should be simple to see if there is any damage from freezing.
I admit I'm leaning toward taking off the heads at least. car has very low mileage for the year so lots of sitting. the '79 is a semi-long term project so 'getting that deep' into this engine is not a real issue.
Just watch out for cracks inside the V.
I have a 928S of 1980 and put M28.12 engine from donor car since I did not had the original engine when buying the car.
After running 3 years with this engine, I encountered a crack in the V over 4 cilinders.
But after putting some Belzona 2 component kit, the leak is reduced to about 100cc of cooling fluid loss every 4 months.
Awaiting a new engine, this was the only short term solution.
But after putting some Belzona 2 component kit, the leak is reduced to about 100cc of cooling fluid loss every 4 months.
.
That is quite a positive result all things considered and equates to about 20 drops per day. Any idea how many run hours that equates to?
Do you have visual evidence the loss is from the area encapsulated by the Belzona or is that assumed to be the case? You could easily lose that amount from a poor joint and not even notice it.
Just watch out for cracks inside the V.
I have a 928S of 1980 and put M28.12 engine from donor car since I did not had the original engine when buying the car.
After running 3 years with this engine, I encountered a crack in the V over 4 cilinders.
But after putting some Belzona 2 component kit, the leak is reduced to about 100cc of cooling fluid loss every 4 months.
Awaiting a new engine, this was the only short term solution.
Do you believe this to be the caused by the freezing of the coolant?
That is quite a positive result all things considered and equates to about 20 drops per day. Any idea how many run hours that equates to?
I believe about 14hours per week.
Do you have visual evidence the loss is from the area encapsulated by the Belzona or is that assumed to be the case? You could easily lose that amount from a poor joint and not even notice it.
yes, the evidence is seen at a small puddle on the first sealing cap on top of the V (is lowest point of the V) and it also reflects the level of coolant fluid in the overflow reservoir.
The reservoir barely looses fluid.
I am also sure nothing is lost at joints.
Do you believe this to be the caused by the freezing of the coolant?
I bought the engine from a donor car sitting outside for 5 years so it is possible that it is caused by frost.
Coolant that I am using for 10 years now is specially made for aluminium engines and is not corrosive for the heads.
I bought the engine from a donor car sitting outside for 5 years so it is possible that it is caused by frost.
Coolant that I am using for 10 years now is specially made for aluminium engines and is not corrosive for the heads.
I've never seen or heard of a crack like yours, however the percentage of engines I've seen is tiny, compared to the total amount produced.
Freezing seems plausible.
And the crack migrating in this extremely brittle alloy is also plausible.
I can't imagine coolant, no matter how bad, doing this.
12-23-2022, 08:55 PM
How to test a block for coolant leaks - ideas?
