grillage

This is great! I may take you up on this.
I have at least half of it from my other ‘79 and I bought a new 14 pin connector that arrived today. Hopefully, I can solder the connectors on the existing wires - we’ll see!

checkmate1996

If it were me, I would start with fuel system before electrical. If it doesn't run or shift, you will be saving yourself a lot of time.

grillage

I'll need the 14 pin connector fixed to test if it runs. but I agree. Worst case with the CIS is shipping it off to CIS Flowtech. I did that to the '78 924 I had that sat for 22 years and it ran like a charm when it was done. Also, I have the fuel tank, lines and such from the 79 I scrapped earlier this year so I feel decent about squaring away fuel.

As for the shifting, the linkage is pretty sloppy but the shifter runs through the gears. Clutch could be bad - don't know that one yet

There seems to be a crossed wire somewhere that I need to find. The passenger's window was down because it was getting 12v to the motor at all times.

I am finding continuity between the 12v constant wires and all kinds of stuff. I'm sure it will be something simple. just need to find it

Shawn Stanford

I like your enthusiasm!

GregBBRD

There's a whole bunch of '78's and '79's sitting around in people's garages/barns/warehouses with low miles.
These cars were very problematic and got parked sometimes very early in their life.
Go figure:
Fuel injection system problems, clutch problems, transmission problems all with terrible dealer support.

checkmate1996

@grillage Bump the starter with a remote start...no need to get the t14 involved..

grillage

Hi all,
started screwing with this one today. I replaced the ignition switch and cleaned up a ton of other stuff. Removed the CB radio wiring harness and relays and the ancient radio too. Replaced the odometer gear while I had the cluster out.

So here’s where I am:

the starter is not energized with the key turning but I can make it spin with voltage at pin 14 on the harness. There’s no spark and the coil appears to have 2v. It looks newer and the resistors down below it appear newer as well. What’s weird on the key is that I don’t have any voltage coming through the yellow wire that I believe is coming from Pin 50 on the ignition switch. Despite having voltage at pins 30 in the switch and having tested the switch for continuity between the two when in the “start” position prior to installing it. I think I’ll take the cluster back out and see if rotating the ignition switch without the key cylinder attached will make any difference.

At that point, I’d check for spark and move troubleshooting there

I happen to have a spare fuse box complete with all the relays and harnesses from the ‘79 I scrapped which has been really helpful to understand what’s going on

The engine spins freely which is very good news at least!

grillage

Got the ignition switch off again this morning and the car will crank if I bypass the key cylinder and rotate the switch itself

sounds like the cylinder isn’t letting the key rotate enough?!

Hey_Allen

I had a similar issue with my '78, and fixed it by replacing the link between the lock cylinder and the switch with the updated version that Porsche released a few years later.
It required adding the related spacer as well, but both parts were only ~$15 when I bought them.
These were available in a retrofit kit at one point in time, but the combined kit is no longer available, though the individual parts are still available.

928.347.755.02 Ignition Switch CAM 77-95
928.347.962.00 Steering - Intermediate Piece for Control Cam

This required a pair of longer screws to secure the switch after installing with the spacer. I used a pair of socket head cap screws, possibly M4x20mm? It's been a while though, so compare with the existing screws and add ~5-6mm.

All that said, once this was installed, I had no issues with the switch making it to the "start" position instead of only barely going beyond the "run" position and not engaging the starter.

AirtekHVAC

Congrats and awesome work so far. I had a similar issue starting with my 78 when I got it. Took forever to figure out the PO bypassed the ignition switch and converted the intensive washer button to a push start AND it was missing its spring and guts. Who knows what people are thinking!

grillage

This is very helpful!!!! Thanks
just ordered!

grillage

More progress — cleaned all the grounds I could find, replaced the new looking blue colored coil that was in the car with the old blue coil from the ‘79 I scrapped and I now have spark!

Went to Autozone to get starter spray and it will fire up with the spray!

Now on to fuel. No voltage at the fuel pump and the relay was the wrong one. I swapped in the spare from my extra relay box and no change.
Went to power the pump from my Milwaukee 12v battery rig and it isn’t doing anything anyway. So new pump needs to be ordered, probably should get the filter to replace the in-tank pump too. Then figure out why the fuel pump isn’t getting power through the relay

grillage

The fuel pump relay from my old car is not testing good — clicks with voltage applied about every tenth time. So one of those has been ordered too

grillage

Figured out why there was so much slop in the shifter.
I don't even know how someone could drive a car this way:


I got new bushings and rebuilt the spare from my other '79 transmission for a quick replacement.

Hey_Allen

I found mine had done the same thing.

You might check the forward end of the linkages as well, mine was popping on and off of the ball on top of the torque tube until I replaced the bushing inside the cup.