As I slowly work on "Goldi", and dive into her hesitation issues I had a quick question about the fuel distributor. If I open one of the "ports" on the fuel distributor to check to see if it still has the original filters in it, do I need any type of new washer or anything when I go to close up the "port"? I'm not planning on redoing the top end until this Fall but I thought if maybe it still has the filters in it (I was under the assumption each port has a small filter) and I can clean them, and maybe I can remedy the issue slightly and actually be able to enjoy her a little.

 

Small copper crush washers are available thru 928srus and some others. I have been very lucky in reusing them.

 

If the crush washers do leak after you can sand them flat, or buy a copper crush washer kit from local auto parts store.

 

I find that in my experience the WUR is the most frequent cause of hesitation. The screen gets clogged (even when you can't see it) and causes fuel pressures to rise which in turn leans out the mixture.

 

So I cleaned out the FD & WUR screens and reassembled. I then went through the initial FD/idle set up. Couldn’t get it to fire. When I went back to do everything over again, when I tried to turn the fuel distributor set-screw CCW I couldn’t “grab” the Allen screw. This was with fuel pump on and also tried it off. What have I done? I just tried to fire it again and I just get a “clunk” sound when it tries to turn over…just one clunk and nothing else.

 

Here is a video. It sounds like it throwing a ton of fuel and I can adjust it.

Update: so if I flip the fuel pump on and off again and then start try and start it, it will fire up and then if I turn the pump back on again, the engine runs very rough. I have to flutter the throttle to try and keep it running. I’m guessing it is dumping too much fuel?? I don’t know what to do, as I can seem to be able to adjust the FD adjustment screw.

 

The adjustment is spring loaded, I am assuming you are pressing down and attempting to press down into the inner Allen?

 

Yes Sir. I’ve begun to tear down the top end. I was going to do it this fall but I guess that timeframe has moved up. It’s coming along. Trying to take my time and take good photos. I have Flow tech replacements that I’ll be installing. Current state of affairs below

 

Getting closer. I decided to pull the water bridge so I could get it and the oil fill canister cleaned up. Current state is below. It’s always funny to see all the stuff that collects in the valley. Anybody find anything interesting?

 

More fun ahead....
Those 4 bolts on the water crossover generally separate the men from the boys.

 

Please elaborate Greg. I'm definitely a "boy" at this. LOL Any words of wisdom would be greatly appreciated.

 

That is the sound of the engine in hydraulic lock....a cylinder is filled with fluid and not allowing the engine to turn over.
Very easy to break internal engine components like pistons, ring lands, and connecting rods, when this occurs.....

Don't keep doing this....you will end up with a pile of scrap metal.

 

I think I did it twice before I thought of hydraulic lock. Luckily, after getting it running while working the pump on and off, it sounded very good, actually better than it sounded before. Hopefully, all is good.

 

I hope so, too.
Weak starter motor hydraulic lock is generally not a problem on these "thick cylinder walled" 4.5 engines.
Do this on a 5.0 or 5.4 GTS engine and "grief" comes very easy and very quickly.

 

In general on threaded fasteners, but particularly on allens, and especially on the water bridge bolts: tap them first. Put the socket in the hole and tap it with a hammer. This will help loosen stuck threads. Do this and be generous with the penetrant. You do not much want to break or strip those puppies. But they really want you to.

Yes, you did hydrolock it. This is super easy to do while working on the CIS system. The reason it later started turning over is because all that fuel made its way down into your crankcase. Please change your oil immediately or you will have to re seal your lower ends. The seals down there do not like contact with fuel. Particularly if you have a silicon pan gasket.

When fiddling with CIS system I like to pull the injectors out and put them in plastic water bottles. That way you can see what they are doing and no chance of hydrolock. Eventually, you will be able to hear when fuel is flowing. When the car is not running you must have zero fuel flowing or you will quickly hydrolock.