This stuff will work well.

I use it all the time.

DAP Weldwood HHR Contact Cement

 

I used a good cyanoacrylate glue (high grade super glue) from my local Radio Control hobby shop. I also used "kicker" to activate the glue on the plastic. IIRC I roughed up the plastic a bit too. It has been holding 2 years now.

 

That looks like just the ticket. Thanks.

I'll be spreading it in an 1/8" gap—not enough room to coat each side separately. Will it work just putting it in there and clamping the surfaces together?

 

That is a contact cement, it has no gap filling ability and you do have to coat both sides and let dry to the touch, put the pieces together and apply pressure to get a permanent bond.

Paul

 

Back to the drawing board.

Any suggestions other than taking the whole thing apart and regluing it (which I would do if the separation were more severe)?

(Kyle, I'm not ignoring you; this job is gluing foam to metal.)

 

Mark,

If only the edges have come loose and need to be re-bonded, I think if you use a swab of some kind (Q-tip?) to put the contact cement into the cracks, then push/clamp the two sides together for a few seconds, then let them come apart and "dry" for 2-3 minutes, then re-clamp as Paul Champagne indicates, they will stay bonded.

That's the process I've used on my console edges (the edges above the carpeted inserts on the sides) on several 928's over the past 10 years.
Gary Knox

 

I always do that particular repair with the console out of the car. I start by heating the area to soften both the vinyl and foam. At this stage, the foam often sticks back to the plastic, because the heat reactivates the old glue somewhat. Do carefully re-open the joint, spread contact cement on both surfaces, let dry to the touch. Then press the vinyl/foam back in its place and apply pressure.

Be careful with the heat: too little and the piece will still unglue later. Too much and you will mark the vinyl and damage it's texture. Use a protective barrier between the heat source and the vinyl.
There is a point where you will feel the vinyl become soft and pliable. That is where you want to be.

If only the very edge is coming loose, then the process described by Gary should work quite well.

Paul

 

Hi MBMB:

When I did this on my center console about 2 or 3 years ago I used something that my trim guy had available. I think it was a cement that he had obtained from the paint and body supply. I recently asked him if he remembered what it was, but he didn't. However, I am pretty sure it was a cement that is used to bond body panels together. It was rather thick and finished fairly flexible. It was white.

If you can find that kind of cement I would slightly pry the delamination open a bit then put the cement in and then with compressed air blow it into the opening as far as possible. Then clamp the opening together using a sturdy bar or flat object wrapped in wax paper to the outside so that it finishes straight.

More recently I used a flexible bondo that I got from the same body and paint store. It is used to repair things like plastic bumper covers like on the 928. I used it in much the same way to relaminate an orliginal style Instrument Pod that we were going to cover in leather. I forced in as much as I could into the opening and then clamped it until it set. I think that will work on the center console edges where they usually delaminate.

Finally, I know of a type of cement that will work much better than contact cement. It is called "GOAT TUFF." You might find it at your archery store because that is the industry where it was created. It is only manufactured on a small scale; and the guy who mnufactures it is a client of mine. He is now in Tucson AZ, His cement is used to fabricate arrows, but I find it useful for a lot of purposes. It is pretty runny and will flow to the bottom of the crack and will probably penetrate the broken pores of the foam and glue them back together. It really is tuff and if the console delaminates again it will be somewhere else. I have used it to laminate aluminum strips to ABS plastic for the 928 center armrest glove box that I make. The aluminum cannot be removed with heat or anything.

If you cannot find this Goat Tuff cement, let me know and I will put you in touch with the manufacturer so he can either sell you some directly or let you know where you might find it in your area.

I hope this helps.

Jerry Feather, FBA Certified
S4's (6)
KGJT

 

^^^This is the correct procedure for 3M trim adhesive. I followed this procedure for the strip that goes around the shifter and it's not going anywhere:

 

I'm bumping this thread for further consideration.

 

Instead of paying $25 for a gallon of DAP Weldwood HHR and having 7 pints of DAP Weldwood HHR to dispose of, I paid a local auto trim company $20 to do the gluing.

 

Goat Tuff
http://www.cabelas.com/p-0004577414882a.shtml
http://www.sportsmansguide.com/net/c...6&kwtid=292846
http://www.obsessionarchery.com/tims...lue-p-302.html

 

The vinyl adhesive may be a better choice for those not experienced with working the vinyl with heat. Also, if the foam layer has deteriorated, the vinyl adhesive void filling properties may work better than other types of adhesives.

You do need to be careful about not getting any glue on the outside vinyl and do have to clamp the pieces together for at least 24 hours.

 

how about some kind of two-part epoxy? compatible with vinyl, foam, etc.?

 

All my repair attempts in-situ have been only temporary. I will be pulling the damn thing out at some point to do it right, maybe install a new shifter from Roger or something to sweeten the deal. I always hate big jobs to take care of little details.