Speedtoys

Had to use head to remove them for painting..going back on -which- green loctite should be used, there seem to be many types.

Im assuming is green, the material on the bolt threads is green...

Rob Edwards

Loctite's website is about the most worthless thing on the internet in terms of clarifying what product is what (or even what products they produce....). I don't know which of the green loctites is correct, but I'd guess that the 290 wicking stuff would be appropriate for those bolts.

Zirconocene

I ended up going to McMaster and looking at the options they have there for threadlocker. If you're married to Loctite, what's nice is that the listings have a good table with the temperature ranges that each flavor is good for. Some of the standard Loctite formulations look like they have somewhat low temperature tolerance, which I thought might be a big deal on the brakes. I ended up buying something that has high temperature tolerance but not a huge removal force needed, as I was paranoid about not getting them out again in the future, having just struggled massively with that.

Good luck

Geo55

I see mention of loctite 270 mentioned in joining the two halfs but cannot find it elseware in the brake assembly

Assembly instructions The two halves of the brake caliper must not be separated. The piston sealing rings, dirt scraper rings and spring plates can be changed while the fixed caliper is assembled. To remove the spring plates, heat the retaining screws with a hot-air blower to approx. 150°C; this is because the screws are inserted with a locking agent. Do not reuse the screws. Coat the threads of the new screws lightly with Loctite 270. When installing the brake pistons, use Unisilikon TK 44 N 2 brake cylinder paste (this also applies to earlier types of brake caliper if repairs become necessary). Unisilikon paste is available as a spare part. available as a spare part (part number 000.043.117.00).

LOCTITE® 270 is a high-strength threadlocker for maximum efficacy in the securing and sealing of bolts, nuts and studs to prevent loosening due to vibration. The product serves to permanently lock assemblies which must not come loose. It works on all metals, including passive substrates such as stainless steel, aluminium and plated surfaces. It is proven to be tolerant of minor contamination due to industrial oils, e.g. engine oils, corrosion prevention oils and cutting fluids. Can be disassembled by heating to 300°C.

• High-strength general threadlocker for maximum efficacy
• Prevents loosening on vibrating assemblies, e.g. pumps, gear boxes or presses
• Proven to be tolerant of minor contamination due to industrial oils, e.g. engine oils, corrosion prevention oils and cutting fluids
• Works on all metals, including passive substrates (e.g. stainless steel, aluminium, plated surfaces)
• Permits disassembly with hand tools
• P1 NSF Reg. No.: 123006
• Can be disassembled by heating to 300°C

Speedtoys

Good info..now I gotta work out what bolt this is in the 'repair kit'..

99335195903

Geo55

Boy, looking at this pic below, it looks like a weak thread locker painted on the thread. How hard did they come out? Check out loctite 294.

LOCTITE® Green Threadlocker 294

LOCTITE® green threadlocker is recommended for locking preassembled fasteners, e.g. electrical connectors and set screws, and prevents against loosening, rust, and corrosion. This wicking grade threadlocker is categorized as a medium-to-high-strength adhesive. Also available in a liquid form, LOCTITE® green wicking threadlocker cures in 24 hours and can be removed with hand tools and, in rare instances, may require heat to assist when threads have excessive engagement lengths.

Speedtoys

I had to get my BBQ lighter torch to heat em up good to get them to start moving...and even then, they were stiif to rotate most of the way out.

Was an odd size, a T27....

Geo55

I believe that any one of these would be appropriate, but since you will most likely never take them apart till you need pads, I would agree with Mr. Edwards and use the Med to high strength. Just my 2 cents..

Geo55

Did yu ever work out the size and pitch of those Screws?

drkekar

I picked up some stainless steal M6x1.0x12 today for this job.

Geo55

As an update, I found that the WSM calls for loctite 270 but is non available, Loctite 263 is said to be the next best.

GUMBALL

Note the part . . "PERMANTLY LOCK" ?????

I suggest that you do not "permanently lock" those screws into the calipers.
Also, I strongly suggest that you DO NOT use a "wicking Loctite" as it will do what it is designed to do - creep into ANY crevice.

May I suggest either Loctite 242, or for a higher heat application - Loctite 266.

Geo55

Just mentioning the quote from the WSM on page 47-03. But you may be right, Looking at the technicle data loctite 266 I see that 266 is non wicking which may give you more control, but the same removal properties of 250 degrees f. as 263. Just saying, no argument.