sprie

I have managed to get the half shaft off on the side of the car with the petrol filler, but i cannot get the bolts to move on the half shaft on the other side of the car (in the UK, this is the side nearest the kerb, so tends to get wetter from all the puddles and therefore corrodes more).
I am using an impact wrench with an impact allen headed bit, but none of the bolts are releasing. If i try to use a breaker bar, i can feel the head of the bolt just starting to deform and there is no movement on the bolt itself, so i don't want to do this any more as i suspect I will strip the head.
I have been dousing the head of the bolts with Sea Form for the last couple of days and have given it a bit of heat (although i can't use much as the old rubber boot is still in place and the CV joint still has it's grease).
It occurs to me that perhaps the top half / (or top three quarters) of the bolt is not the bit which matters - doesn't this part of the bolt just feed through the holes down the side of the CV joint?
Is the actual part that is frozen is the bottom end of the bolt where it screws into the diff? If that is the case, if i am going to apply heat, shouldn't i do this on the part of the diff where the bolt goes?
Any other ideas on how to release these bolts?

davek9

You are correct, the bolt passes through and the threaded part is the Flange that bolts to the Diff as you stated.
I use a long to long extension with an allen/hex bit socket and reach in from outside the car (wheels removed), the extra long extension has a torsion bar effect and increases the torque.
With this method you can also hammer the socket in, and that can help loosen the bolts.

Dave K

Mrmerlin

Use an 1/2 inch impact gun to remove those bolts

Gage

HUH? Better get the old physics books out.

waynestrutt

Just think what 2 or 3 extra extensions would achieve !!!!!!!!

soontobered84

Those bolts could have been threadlocked also. Heat them up a bit and use the aforementioned tools to remove those pesky bolts.

Petza914

Indictive heater on the bolt will put the heat right into the bolt instead of all around the area, but an air impact with proper impact but straight onto the bolts with the wheel removed should do it.

slownrusty

I agree 1/2" impact is the way to go.

Mrmerlin

forgot to add,
make sure the bolt heads are perfectly cleared of stones and grease, use brake cleaner and a pick and compressed air.
NOTE this step is crucial to not damaging the bolt heads for the next removal sequence.
Also use a hi quality allen socket on your gun

davek9

I also use extra long screwdrivers to break lose frozen screws, works for me.
I have seen this same trick used on old Aircraft fasteners too.

GUMBALL

If you have access to a "point heat source" such as an acetylene/oxygen small tip torch, heat the flange where the bolts thread into, and not the bolt.
If a threadlocker was used on assembly, you might need 300 degrees to break the loctite. Aim your heat source carefully.
Then, use a good pin pinch, (that is small enough to touch the bottom of the socket, and not damage the sides) one or two sharp raps might break the seized threads loose.
Then try an impact gun and a GOOD hex driver.

Rob Edwards

32" of extensions from the wheelwell area makes it easy to get an impact wrench on it:

sprie

In the end, I have reverted to use of heat (gas torch) and the impact driver. A bit of smoke from rubber boots, but they are getting replaced anyway. So far, i have got 3 of the 6 out, so i think with more patience, i am hoping to get the remaining ones out too.

Mrmerlin

I would suggest to get the gun as close to the bolt as possible if it won’t come loose try a few tightening sequencing with loosening