Instrument panel issue
#1
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Car is an 85S 32V manual.
Either my car is going thermonuclear, or my instrument panel went kerblooey*. I was driving home, hit a bump and all the warning lights and the central warning system came on simultaneously. Engine Oil, brake fluid, everything all at once. Anyone have any ideas how to go in and troubleshoot this?
*I know, I know, "Embrace the power of 'and'".
Either my car is going thermonuclear, or my instrument panel went kerblooey*. I was driving home, hit a bump and all the warning lights and the central warning system came on simultaneously. Engine Oil, brake fluid, everything all at once. Anyone have any ideas how to go in and troubleshoot this?
*I know, I know, "Embrace the power of 'and'".
#2
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All warning lights come on when they first get power but go out [if everything is ok] when the starter is engaged. This is their test function.
If your cluster momentarily lost power, then regained power and as your motor was running, the starter was not activated, then it would not receive the 'test ok' signal, so the warning lights stay on.
A theory at least?
If your cluster momentarily lost power, then regained power and as your motor was running, the starter was not activated, then it would not receive the 'test ok' signal, so the warning lights stay on.
A theory at least?
#3
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Probably a bad ignition switch. When they fail they cause issues like that with the bluster when starting.
If it is original it is probably on its way out anyway and should be replaced.
If it is original it is probably on its way out anyway and should be replaced.
#5
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The control unit for the warning lights is underneath/behind the driver's dead foot rest. Your description sounds like the problem is elsewhere, but that is the ultimate source.
#6
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Extra detail:
Had a problem with the ground strap, and replaced it with a hand built one until the one I ordered would arrive, and left the battery on the charger overnight, and it was reading >12V in the morning when I started. Drove the car pretty heavily yesterday, and and had a problem with the warm idle, so I was restarting a lot, nonetheless the battery at the end of the day was 12.58V. The battery is fairly new, so I don't think the battery is bad.
edit:
Also, there was a problem with the alarm bell going off. Initially, I thought this was due to the hatch not latching completely, but I had disconnected and bypassed the alarm(two wires doing to bottom of hatch receiver, not the trunk release motor). That did not appear to fix that issue, just wondering if it could be related.
Had a problem with the ground strap, and replaced it with a hand built one until the one I ordered would arrive, and left the battery on the charger overnight, and it was reading >12V in the morning when I started. Drove the car pretty heavily yesterday, and and had a problem with the warm idle, so I was restarting a lot, nonetheless the battery at the end of the day was 12.58V. The battery is fairly new, so I don't think the battery is bad.
edit:
Also, there was a problem with the alarm bell going off. Initially, I thought this was due to the hatch not latching completely, but I had disconnected and bypassed the alarm(two wires doing to bottom of hatch receiver, not the trunk release motor). That did not appear to fix that issue, just wondering if it could be related.
Last edited by jb2021; 10-04-2021 at 08:55 AM.
#7
RL Community Team
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Alram systems will trigger when batteries are reconnected so thieves can't bypass the starter lockout by disconnecting the battery. It sounds like you have either a battery or a main ground strap issue since things seem to be losing power or sensing very low current.
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#8
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check the ground strap on the engine (underneath, passenger side). Chances are if that isn't the one you replaced it's a wreck; replace it. Thats a big ground and its easy for it to get all gunked up. Should be cleaned every year.Cable will be shot. 928Srus has engine ground straps. Bad engine ground strap can cause erratic running conditions. Make sure when you replace it you thoroughly clean the connection on the unibody...there is a nice raised round area around the hole ...give it some light sanding to make it bright and shiny...put some deOxit on it before you attach the new strap. Clean where it attaches to the engine also; although that connection is not quite as susceptible to the dirt, mud, rain water and general other crap that gets on the unibody connection.,
Every time I clean/refresh the unibody connection of the engine ground strap I'm rewarded with better running.
matt.
Every time I clean/refresh the unibody connection of the engine ground strap I'm rewarded with better running.
matt.
#9
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Have you done a CE panel service with Deoxit 100
does the battery have a hold down
Are the battery terminals tight make sure the battery hot post has a cover on it
Have you checked the fan belts for proper tension
you can reset the dash by shutting off then restarting the engine,
verify the hot post wires are secure
does the battery have a hold down
Are the battery terminals tight make sure the battery hot post has a cover on it
Have you checked the fan belts for proper tension
you can reset the dash by shutting off then restarting the engine,
verify the hot post wires are secure
#10
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[QUOTE=Mrmerlin;17706952]Have you done a CE panel service with Deoxit 100
Will do
does the battery have a hold down
Not it does not.
Are the battery terminals tight make sure the battery hot post has a cover on it
Yes, I think so. Is the hot post for the small wires going into the battery or the post under the hood passenger side?
Have you checked the fan belts for proper tension
No.
you can reset the dash by shutting off then restarting the engine,
I tried that a couple of times, it didn't work.
verify the hot post wires are secure
again, will do.
Will do
does the battery have a hold down
Not it does not.
Are the battery terminals tight make sure the battery hot post has a cover on it
Yes, I think so. Is the hot post for the small wires going into the battery or the post under the hood passenger side?
Have you checked the fan belts for proper tension
No.
you can reset the dash by shutting off then restarting the engine,
I tried that a couple of times, it didn't work.
verify the hot post wires are secure
again, will do.
#11
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Happened to Jeremy Clarkson. When he hit a bad bump and the shock tower pierced his main wiring harness connecting the 14 pin front left. Something is shorted in the circuit.
#12
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get a battery hold down otherwise it will jump up and short out on the lid
#13
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+1 on this. Was driving my 81 Euro right after I got it to sort out some of the issues and went over a railroad crossing and had some instantaneous electrical weirdness, then immediately recognized the smell of electrical arcing. Sure enough, ooenend the battery door and no hold down. Addressed that immediately when I got home.
#14
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+1 on this. Was driving my 81 Euro right after I got it to sort out some of the issues and went over a railroad crossing and had some instantaneous electrical weirdness, then immediately recognized the smell of electrical arcing. Sure enough, ooenend the battery door and no hold down. Addressed that immediately when I got home.
#15
Electron Wrangler
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All warning lights come on when they first get power but go out [if everything is ok] when the starter is engaged. This is their test function.
If your cluster momentarily lost power, then regained power and as your motor was running, the starter was not activated, then it would not receive the 'test ok' signal, so the warning lights stay on.
A theory at least?
If your cluster momentarily lost power, then regained power and as your motor was running, the starter was not activated, then it would not receive the 'test ok' signal, so the warning lights stay on.
A theory at least?
Alan