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Someone from a cold Shop in the Startes like my milking tech Shop should solder you the Original fittings to the Vito Unit. Worth a try.
Karsten,
Your suggestion is where I started my quest. Once I found the "Vito Transporter" evaporator from a UK supplier--thanks eBay --I began looking for someone to bend the inlet and outlet tubes in such a way as to allow the unit to fit inside of the rear A/C blower box. As is, the new Behr evaporator is 4 inches too tall. Finding someone that can do TIG welding where I live has been a challenge. Once I found a shop that could do the work, the next challenge, from the shop's POV was to bend the inlet and outlet tubes in such a way as to allow the evaporator to fit inside the blower box and to mate to the OE A/C hoses. They advised that trying to do so was more difficult than it seemed and might introduce new weak points that may cause new leak points. So, instead, the shop in Virginia found a company in Germany that stated they can make new rear evaporators--if I can reach the minimum order threshold.
The quest continues... Hopefully, we can convince the German shop to either make a lower amount or sell us the components so we can make them ourselves. I’m also looking for the right fabricator that might feel comfortable with modifying the “Vito Transporter” evaporator. However, finding that "right fabricator" is not easy when you live near Washington, DC.
Isńt hard soldering, brazing the technique for the Job? Autogen? Like the heating contractor?
you need an old mechanic, Not someone who can only crimp tubes.
Last edited by Darklands; Jul 19, 2021 at 01:48 PM.
A friend of mine had a leak in his 928 GT rear AC evaporator about 20 years ago. He first put a few PSI of freon into the system, then used a freon sniffer to identify exactly where the lead was located and market it, t He hen evacuated the system and kept the vacuum pump operating while he mixed up some metal epoxy and put the mix on/around the leak area. The vacuum sucked some epoxy into the crack/leaking area. He kept the pump on for several hours while the epoxy hardened. After a full day, he checked vacuum and it was still good. Filled the system with R-12, and I don't think he's ever had to refill it since (he serviced the compressor and replaced all the sealing 'O' rings before he addressed the rear leak).
So - you might consider this. Cost is about $30-50 US for a vacuum pump and $10 or so for a tube of epoxy.
A friend of mine had a leak in his 928 GT rear AC evaporator about 20 years ago. He first put a few PSI of freon into the system, then used a freon sniffer to identify exactly where the lead was located and market it, t He hen evacuated the system and kept the vacuum pump operating while he mixed up some metal epoxy and put the mix on/around the leak area. The vacuum sucked some epoxy into the crack/leaking area. He kept the pump on for several hours while the epoxy hardened. After a full day, he checked vacuum and it was still good. Filled the system with R-12, and I don't think he's ever had to refill it since (he serviced the compressor and replaced all the sealing 'O' rings before he addressed the rear leak).
So - you might consider this. Cost is about $30-50 US for a vacuum pump and $10 or so for a tube of epoxy.
Isńt hard soldering, brazing the technique for the Job? Autogen? Like the heating contractor?
you need an old mechanic, Not someone who can only crimp tubes.
Karsten,
If you're referring to the mods to the Vito Transporter evaporator, then TIG welding, I believe, is the preferred method since the mods to the inlet and outlet tubes may not be close-fitting. Wrt the OE rear evaporator, it would have been nice if Porsche brazed the copper tubes to the aluminum core instead of using that bonding epoxy.
I left mine in place and plugged the two lines beneath the car along with manufacturing a plate to cover the connector under the car. It's worked great and I occasionally check for leaks with my refrigerant sniffer and haven't These are the 2 I plugged. I also installed and added condenser where the washer bottle was installed.
found any.
I left mine in place and plugged the two lines beneath the car along with manufacturing a plate to cover the connector under the car. It's worked great and I occasionally check for leaks with my refrigerant sniffer and haven't These are the 2 I plugged. I also installed and added condenser where the washer bottle was installed.
found any.
Tracy,
I believe Greg Brown mounts his secondary condenser and condenser fan in the same location; so you seem to be in good company.
--I began looking for someone to bend the inlet and outlet tubes in such a way as to allow the unit to fit inside of the rear A/C blower box. As is, the new Behr evaporator is 4 inches too tall. Finding someone that can do TIG welding where I live has been a challenge. Once I found a shop that could do the work, the next challenge, from the shop's POV was to bend the inlet and outlet tubes in such a way as to allow the evaporator to fit inside the blower box and to mate to the OE A/C hoses. They advised that trying to do so was more difficult than it seemed and might introduce new weak points that may cause new leak points. So, instead, the shop in Virginia found a company in Germany that stated they can make new rear evaporators--if I can reach the minimum order threshold.
However, that's was when they were all brand new. I wonder how many are still out rolling around now? 
