AC Issues, front warm rear cold
05-17-2011, 05:04 PM
#31
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This is the boot, the rubber part in the middle.
I've not had a drain clog up on the 6 or 7 so I've done. Doesn't mean it won't but have not had it happen. I'd say on yours Randy, that you won't need it since you have the filter, that's what it is there for.
Pull the filter, you should be able to see it much better than those of us who don't have one.
I've not had a drain clog up on the 6 or 7 so I've done. Doesn't mean it won't but have not had it happen. I'd say on yours Randy, that you won't need it since you have the filter, that's what it is there for.
Pull the filter, you should be able to see it much better than those of us who don't have one.
OK, I'll take a peek - thanks.
When I last pulled that pollen filter I was amused to discover that Porsche used torx head screws to secure the cover.
Must have been mandated by a bean counter who wanted to be sure the average 3 screwdriver owner couldn't service it themselves and a dealer would have another source of maintenance revenue.
05-17-2011, 05:06 PM
#32
OK, I'll take a peek - thanks.
When I last pulled that pollen filter I was amused to discover that Porsche used torx head screws to secure the cover.
Must have been mandated by a bean counter who wanted to be sure the average 3 screwdriver owner couldn't service it themselves and a dealer would have another source of maintenance revenue.
When I last pulled that pollen filter I was amused to discover that Porsche used torx head screws to secure the cover.
Must have been mandated by a bean counter who wanted to be sure the average 3 screwdriver owner couldn't service it themselves and a dealer would have another source of maintenance revenue.
05-17-2011, 05:20 PM
#33
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"I've been dealing with an a/c leak for about a year now, and have been unable to isolate it until recently... but now I only know it's inside the car. I've tried dye and an electronic sniffer to no avail. But, the dye charge I added had an evergreen scent to it, and when I got in the car yesterday before starting it up, the interior smelled like pine tree air fresheners."
If you have the rear A/C, it is not unusual for the joints between the aluminum and the copper tubes to leak on the rear evaporator.
Repair will almost certainly require removing the rear evaporator if that is the cause.
Capt'n Earl and I have discussed this repair (but neither of us have actually done the repair yet) and think that the best chance of a lasting repair would require:
Removing the rear evaporator and cleaning the joints on the ends of the evaporator coils very throughly, including degreasing and washing with soap and water, then drying.
Pulling a vacuum on the evaporator and wicking a sealer, perhaps Loctite 40H or something similar, into the joints between the aluminum and copper tubes.
Potting the joints in a high-strength epoxy resin.
Curing for a couple of days, then reinstalling and recharging.
Many years ago, GM had a similar problem with their A/C evaporators, and a couple of aftermarket rebuilders used a potting process to "rebuild" the leaking evaporators.
If you have the rear A/C, it is not unusual for the joints between the aluminum and the copper tubes to leak on the rear evaporator.
Repair will almost certainly require removing the rear evaporator if that is the cause.
Capt'n Earl and I have discussed this repair (but neither of us have actually done the repair yet) and think that the best chance of a lasting repair would require:
Removing the rear evaporator and cleaning the joints on the ends of the evaporator coils very throughly, including degreasing and washing with soap and water, then drying.
Pulling a vacuum on the evaporator and wicking a sealer, perhaps Loctite 40H or something similar, into the joints between the aluminum and copper tubes.
Potting the joints in a high-strength epoxy resin.
Curing for a couple of days, then reinstalling and recharging.
Many years ago, GM had a similar problem with their A/C evaporators, and a couple of aftermarket rebuilders used a potting process to "rebuild" the leaking evaporators.
05-17-2011, 05:29 PM
#34
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I peeled back the rubber boot and went in through there. I had a long flexible flashlight and took a good look in there. Ugh! It's a wonder any air got through there at all. I used a small vacuum I have for cleaning inside computers and used that to get the loose stuff. then I sprayed a cleaner in. It was a tight fit but I could get my hand in and clean almost all of it with a soft toothbrush. Rinsed it with a spray bottle. First with a disinfectant and then with water. Did I get all of it sparkly...no. but over 90%. It's cold here today, so its hard to tell if there is any big gain in cooling efffect yet.
05-17-2011, 05:59 PM
#35
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"I've been dealing with an a/c leak for about a year now, and have been unable to isolate it until recently... but now I only know it's inside the car. I've tried dye and an electronic sniffer to no avail. But, the dye charge I added had an evergreen scent to it, and when I got in the car yesterday before starting it up, the interior smelled like pine tree air fresheners."
If you have the rear A/C, it is not unusual for the joints between the aluminum and the copper tubes to leak on the rear evaporator.
Repair will almost certainly require removing the rear evaporator if that is the cause.
Capt'n Earl and I have discussed this repair (but neither of us have actually done the repair yet) and think that the best chance of a lasting repair would require:
Removing the rear evaporator and cleaning the joints on the ends of the evaporator coils very throughly, including degreasing and washing with soap and water, then drying.
Pulling a vacuum on the evaporator and wicking a sealer, perhaps Loctite 40H or something similar, into the joints between the aluminum and copper tubes.
Potting the joints in a high-strength epoxy resin.
Curing for a couple of days, then reinstalling and recharging.
Many years ago, GM had a similar problem with their A/C evaporators, and a couple of aftermarket rebuilders used a potting process to "rebuild" the leaking evaporators.
If you have the rear A/C, it is not unusual for the joints between the aluminum and the copper tubes to leak on the rear evaporator.
Repair will almost certainly require removing the rear evaporator if that is the cause.
Capt'n Earl and I have discussed this repair (but neither of us have actually done the repair yet) and think that the best chance of a lasting repair would require:
Removing the rear evaporator and cleaning the joints on the ends of the evaporator coils very throughly, including degreasing and washing with soap and water, then drying.
Pulling a vacuum on the evaporator and wicking a sealer, perhaps Loctite 40H or something similar, into the joints between the aluminum and copper tubes.
Potting the joints in a high-strength epoxy resin.
Curing for a couple of days, then reinstalling and recharging.
Many years ago, GM had a similar problem with their A/C evaporators, and a couple of aftermarket rebuilders used a potting process to "rebuild" the leaking evaporators.
Pictures and more discussion here: https://rennlist.com/forums/928-foru...c-leaks-2.html
05-17-2011, 06:47 PM
#36
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Randy-
If the pollen filter on your GTS is intact, all the crap that would normally build up on the evaporator should be nicely gathered on the surface of the filter. Buy the Torx tool if you haven't already, use it to put a new filter in. No muss, no fuss, no hose or spray cleaner needed.
If the pollen filter on your GTS is intact, all the crap that would normally build up on the evaporator should be nicely gathered on the surface of the filter. Buy the Torx tool if you haven't already, use it to put a new filter in. No muss, no fuss, no hose or spray cleaner needed.
05-17-2011, 06:53 PM
#37
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I peeled back the rubber boot and went in through there. I had a long flexible flashlight and took a good look in there. Ugh! It's a wonder any air got through there at all. I used a small vacuum I have for cleaning inside computers and used that to get the loose stuff. then I sprayed a cleaner in. It was a tight fit but I could get my hand in and clean almost all of it with a soft toothbrush. Rinsed it with a spray bottle. First with a disinfectant and then with water. Did I get all of it sparkly...no. but over 90%. It's cold here today, so its hard to tell if there is any big gain in cooling effect yet.
05-17-2011, 07:31 PM
#38
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Randy-
If the pollen filter on your GTS is intact, all the crap that would normally build up on the evaporator should be nicely gathered on the surface of the filter. Buy the Torx tool if you haven't already, use it to put a new filter in. No muss, no fuss, no hose or spray cleaner needed.
If the pollen filter on your GTS is intact, all the crap that would normally build up on the evaporator should be nicely gathered on the surface of the filter. Buy the Torx tool if you haven't already, use it to put a new filter in. No muss, no fuss, no hose or spray cleaner needed.
Got the torx, Bob.
That's how I cleaned the filter last time (see earlier post).
05-22-2011, 07:55 PM
#39
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Replaced the heater valve with one from Oreillys. Part number 84707 and is the manual close type. Was $12.
Fun is now both mount bolts for airbox broke, and so did the test port tube for passanger side. Will order rubber mounts from Roger, and fixed the test port tube. Always something.
Still no cold air out of the front. May run it up to Sean on Sat. and have him put his AC gauges on it Saturday and see what my next step is.
Fun is now both mount bolts for airbox broke, and so did the test port tube for passanger side. Will order rubber mounts from Roger, and fixed the test port tube. Always something.
Still no cold air out of the front. May run it up to Sean on Sat. and have him put his AC gauges on it Saturday and see what my next step is.
05-22-2011, 11:00 PM
#41
Bring it on up Brad, my plans for the weekend are shot so I will be workin.
05-23-2011, 10:31 PM
#42
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"I've been dealing with an a/c leak for about a year now, and have been unable to isolate it until recently... but now I only know it's inside the car. I've tried dye and an electronic sniffer to no avail. But, the dye charge I added had an evergreen scent to it, and when I got in the car yesterday before starting it up, the interior smelled like pine tree air fresheners."
If you have the rear A/C, it is not unusual for the joints between the aluminum and the copper tubes to leak on the rear evaporator.
Repair will almost certainly require removing the rear evaporator if that is the cause.
Capt'n Earl and I have discussed this repair (but neither of us have actually done the repair yet) and think that the best chance of a lasting repair would require:
Removing the rear evaporator and cleaning the joints on the ends of the evaporator coils very throughly, including degreasing and washing with soap and water, then drying.
Pulling a vacuum on the evaporator and wicking a sealer, perhaps Loctite 40H or something similar, into the joints between the aluminum and copper tubes.
Potting the joints in a high-strength epoxy resin.
Curing for a couple of days, then reinstalling and recharging.
Many years ago, GM had a similar problem with their A/C evaporators, and a couple of aftermarket rebuilders used a potting process to "rebuild" the leaking evaporators.
If you have the rear A/C, it is not unusual for the joints between the aluminum and the copper tubes to leak on the rear evaporator.
Repair will almost certainly require removing the rear evaporator if that is the cause.
Capt'n Earl and I have discussed this repair (but neither of us have actually done the repair yet) and think that the best chance of a lasting repair would require:
Removing the rear evaporator and cleaning the joints on the ends of the evaporator coils very throughly, including degreasing and washing with soap and water, then drying.
Pulling a vacuum on the evaporator and wicking a sealer, perhaps Loctite 40H or something similar, into the joints between the aluminum and copper tubes.
Potting the joints in a high-strength epoxy resin.
Curing for a couple of days, then reinstalling and recharging.
Many years ago, GM had a similar problem with their A/C evaporators, and a couple of aftermarket rebuilders used a potting process to "rebuild" the leaking evaporators.
Last edited by GeorgeM; 05-24-2011 at 05:33 PM.
05-24-2011, 05:34 PM
#43
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This may be a stupid question, but if I don't run the rear a/c, will Freon still leak out of the rear evaporator? If so, what's the solenoid under the seat for?
05-24-2011, 10:17 PM
#44
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I have ice cold A/C in the front once ive started moving some...but if when I turn on the rear..then you immediately feel a difference in the car, stops cooling as well.
Im told im full...I COULD be too full, and have 2.5lbs of R134 when I should have about 80% of that...right?
05-24-2011, 10:27 PM
#45
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Jeff-
There's the total heat movement capacity in the system. Limited generally by the dynamics of the compressor and the capacity of the condenser. Turning on the rear system means refrigerant flow is now split between the two systems. The expansion valves throttle liquid flow intto the evaporators to try and maintain target pressure (same as temperature). So flow through each is metered, and gets throttled by the expansion valves since they both see the same suction pressure.
Simplified, you have a certain amount of heat transfer capability in the system. Split, each system will be warmer as the total heat extracted from the cabin doesn't change that much.
I think the rear air was another engineering overkill effort. Good in theory for those passengers in the rear sitting in the greenhouse. But a waste for the 99% of the time when it's one- or two-up touring. I know my rear system works, but it's been years since I bothered to use it to actually try and cool the car faster. I'd rather have the blast of frigid air on me in front after the car has been heat-soaking in the summer sun.
There's the total heat movement capacity in the system. Limited generally by the dynamics of the compressor and the capacity of the condenser. Turning on the rear system means refrigerant flow is now split between the two systems. The expansion valves throttle liquid flow intto the evaporators to try and maintain target pressure (same as temperature). So flow through each is metered, and gets throttled by the expansion valves since they both see the same suction pressure.
Simplified, you have a certain amount of heat transfer capability in the system. Split, each system will be warmer as the total heat extracted from the cabin doesn't change that much.
I think the rear air was another engineering overkill effort. Good in theory for those passengers in the rear sitting in the greenhouse. But a waste for the 99% of the time when it's one- or two-up touring. I know my rear system works, but it's been years since I bothered to use it to actually try and cool the car faster. I'd rather have the blast of frigid air on me in front after the car has been heat-soaking in the summer sun.