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Old Jul 14, 2021 | 12:16 AM
  #1  
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Default Quick Jack issue...

Got it filled, and bled, no more air is in the cylinders..not a peep. The pump is bled...checked that too, and it's full.

This is a 7000lb unit, and it wont raise to the first stop, the pump sounds like its hit a hard stop just before it.

Ideas???

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Old Jul 14, 2021 | 01:32 AM
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This is going to sound stupid but are you plugged directly into the wall or into an extension cord? I am pretty sure I had this issue on a weak extension cord.

Also, you might check the reservoir fluid level after bleeding as your reservoir may be low. This video has other ideas too.

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Old Jul 14, 2021 | 01:38 AM
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Ya..its PLENTY full, added another 1/4" to the top just in case, no difference.

I thought about that pump 'adjustment' I see here (saw a few hours ago) but...thought Id just wait for QJ in the morning...not the same pump, but should work.

Its on a cord, but my pressure washer draws more than this does, I cant imagine it needs more. But..I can try.
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Old Jul 14, 2021 | 07:46 AM
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My strongest advice is do not stack those blocks! See this thread - https://rennlist.com/forums/997-foru...-jack-psa.html. I know QJ allows for it, but I could have been killed. In the case of the 928, the extra couple of inches in the grand scheme is meaningless.

Other than that, I don't know why yours isn't lifting? (Maybe God giving you a second chance to unstack those blocks before you get under it? )
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Old Jul 14, 2021 | 09:15 AM
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Get car off and bleed it again, raise and lower it a couple times but NOT all the way up. See if that works, if no luck, give them a call. GL I always use an extension cord without issue.
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Old Jul 14, 2021 | 11:07 AM
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Jeff,

Watching (and listening to) your video, the motor keeps running when the lift stalls, so it is not electric-- whatever your extension cord is, is fine. I don't hear the motor RPM change so it is still pumping fluid (or trying to) under pressure but the fluid is not getting to the cylinders.

So either a pressure-relief valve is opening early (and the fluid is bypassing the cylinders), or the pump piston/vanes/whatever are not sealing and the pump is not able to build enough pressure.

Check Trey's video above, the pressure-relief o-rings are a likely culprit. (The pressure switch on top is not the culprit, that would stop the motor).

Last edited by jcorenman; Jul 14, 2021 at 11:12 AM.
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Old Jul 14, 2021 | 02:57 PM
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Ya..went to bleed more..no air.

The lift even with no load, only goes up 2/3 to the first stop, barely the 8-9" raise they want to cycle/bleed the system...Just wont go higher.

Also, even with no load, and -3- cycles, the pump is HOT, the fluid tank is hot...that's not normal. It should be barely working, much less generating 100s of watts of heat in the mass of the body and fluid after 3 cycles.
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Old Jul 14, 2021 | 05:35 PM
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Originally Posted by Speedtoys
Ya..went to bleed more..no air.

The lift even with no load, only goes up 2/3 to the first stop, barely the 8-9" raise they want to cycle/bleed the system...Just wont go higher.

Also, even with no load, and -3- cycles, the pump is HOT, the fluid tank is hot...that's not normal. It should be barely working, much less generating 100s of watts of heat in the mass of the body and fluid after 3 cycles.
Maybe you got the "liberal" version:
The one where you pay for it to not work.
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Old Jul 14, 2021 | 06:27 PM
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Originally Posted by GregBBRD
Maybe you got the "liberal" version:
The one where you pay for it to not work.
Nah, it's the 'conservative' one that promises a good performance but fails to rise to the occasion.
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Old Jul 14, 2021 | 09:31 PM
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Well, they said to raise the pressure on the valve 1/4 turn, I did. Not much has changed.

Although I did end up with one side of the car up on a lock, and the other side still cant get 2/3 to it..and the pump start to 'groan'..

This is the most frustration per technological effort Ive even spent in my garage.

One pump, two hydraulic cylinders, zero changed since 1738.
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Old Jul 14, 2021 | 09:38 PM
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Originally Posted by jej3
This is going to sound stupid but are you plugged directly into the wall or into an extension cord? I am pretty sure I had this issue on a weak extension cord.

Also, you might check the reservoir fluid level after bleeding as your reservoir may be low. This video has other ideas too.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=9rUgOcF7zrM
I pulled these quick connects, the the Orings look great...nothing in the way..no leaks...

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Old Jul 15, 2021 | 02:02 PM
  #12  
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After swapping hoses and fittings side to side..the last thing they had me do was see if there's fluid in the air chambers...

The slow not lifting side, is full of it...*sigh*

Well, when I get back from a funeral on Tuesday, I hope to have a new cylinder to bolt in...I hope.
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Old Jul 15, 2021 | 02:33 PM
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Originally Posted by Speedtoys
Got it filled, and bled, no more air is in the cylinders..not a peep. The pump is bled...checked that too, and it's full.

This is a 7000lb unit, and it wont raise to the first stop, the pump sounds like its hit a hard stop just before it.

Ideas???

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=frUhFNCnsKA

I've the same 7000 unit, and it never makes that sound. I could lift my Cayenne with ease.

Have you sent that video to QJ?
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Old Jul 15, 2021 | 03:02 PM
  #14  
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Ya..I have a problem where ATF is filling my air cylinder...it's not supposed to be there.
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Old Jul 15, 2021 | 04:53 PM
  #15  
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- I'm going to second against stacking the blocks.
- I've had a few close calls with just the taller blocks with the car shifting and on one occasion shifting off the block, but still on the rack.
- now I only use the stubby blocks
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