If i read the wiring diagrams correctly, the headlight motor has an internal type switch that turns on the headlights as the motor reaches a certain point of travel.....

just trouble shooting crap ...i have no headlight motor movement at this point. (And no rear marker lights or brake lights..hazards and turn signals work though)

 

Tony,

The headlight motor has a wiper contact plate that can benefit from a clean occasionally [easily accessed]. This does not turn on the headlights per se rather when the plate reaches a certain point of travel a different contact on the wiper plate makes and this routes back to the relay that energises a contact to turn on the lights once they reach the upright position.

 

Thanks fred..makes sense as i look at it. The motor has to work before the headlights will illuminate ...Still no motor or headlight activation though.

meanwhile, my rear marker and brake lights were out because i forgot to plug this in .....thats that issue put to bed.

 

Tony,

Sounds as though you need to eliminate the headlight relay from your investigations.

 

ya....curious....is it “jumper-able” like the fuel pump.???

knowing me though i probably did something “smart” to deactivate them while taking it apart. But what?

 

Obviously you could test the relay if you had a spare, but at $170+ each, not many will have spares handy, so...

You can easily pry back the metal case circumference tab to remove the metal case around the headlight motor relay.

The relay in the right rear quadrant is the only one that you want (if you are solving a non-pop-up condition). With the relay plugged in without the metal cover on it, simply press that springed-metal flap closed. If you have battery power and your headlight motor is working, your headlights will raise right up.

Now, if that "fixes" your pop-up headlights so that they actually, you know, pop up, then you can expand the spring on that relay just a bit so that it still closes the relay when you aren't pressing on it, but pressing it closed suddenly becomes much easier... which means that an ailing, old relay can suddenly have the power to work that relay again.

Presto!

You've fixed your pop up headlights for free, and even better, without waiting for a new relay to be delivered to you. At this point, you can reinstall the metal cover if desired.

Tip: when you remove the relay to gain access to the metal cover such that you can pry the edges back to remove that metal cover, wrap some heavy non-conductive twine around the base of the relay while plugging it back in without the metal cover on. Then grab the twine and pull to remove the relay later (since it won't have the metal cover on it to grip to pull it off).

 

Sort of.

There is a metal cover/cap around the headlight motor relay. When you remove that metal cap (easy to do!) you will see 4 internal relay switches mounted 2+2.

With the cap off and that relay plugged back into your 928, you can press the right rear relay switch "flap" to raise your headlights, then release that flap (it is spring-hinged so it will pull back once your finger is off it).

If that worked, then you've basically fixed your pop-up headlights. See above post.

 

Got them working....i took the relay apart and cleaned it as well as the contacts in the motor gear box

 

Tony,

Well done mate- any photos?

I have a relay that I pulled a few years ago and replaced with a spare- would like to have a go r/r the thing so a visual cue as to what you actually did might be useful as it is another one of those items that is going to stop working sooner or later and good to be prepared once more.

 

The failure seems to be the back right internal relay gradually losing the power to pull against its spring. You could replace that spring (easy) or spread the spring out a bit with a tiny flat-blade screwdriver (my solution) to make the spring weaker so that the weaker internal relay switch can pull it again.

Anyway, very little effort to make the headlight motor relay functional. Well, for a while.

 

For future reference - if the headlight pods go up & down and park as normal - the fault is not in the headlight motor switch - it is elsewhere (HL switch, wiring, fuses, relay). The same motor switch that is used to park the headlight in the up position is supposed to turn the headlight main beams on in the relay.

Alan

 

i just used deoxit and some 2000 grit wetNdry sand paper on the contact points where i could.