87 S4 won't start
#32
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Garth, I agree with your observations, and the only parameter I'm not really sure about is gas in the exhaust - I smelled gas earlier on, but when I went to check the exhaust specifically, I didn't notice a destinct fuel smell. Maybe it's just me.
I certainly can't rotate the crank by hand. At least not with my small 20cm socket wrench (by your note above that should be 20-30kg which is not really that much). I can't get under the car tonight - no stands - but I'll try to get a set tomorrow maybe.
Thanks for trying to see some logic in all this
...
I certainly can't rotate the crank by hand. At least not with my small 20cm socket wrench (by your note above that should be 20-30kg which is not really that much). I can't get under the car tonight - no stands - but I'll try to get a set tomorrow maybe.
Thanks for trying to see some logic in all this
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#33
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I give up... Something must have seized up badly because I simply cannot turn the crank. I cannot believe that this is the original problem as that happened overnight, it has got to be a consequence of some/all of the things I've tried since it first failed to start.
Is it possible that continous cranking, w/ resulting flooding etc. caused something to seize up?
I'm running out of options, so I'll probably have to bend over and have it towed to a (real) mechanic. But thanks anyway to all who tried...
Is it possible that continous cranking, w/ resulting flooding etc. caused something to seize up?
I'm running out of options, so I'll probably have to bend over and have it towed to a (real) mechanic. But thanks anyway to all who tried...
#35
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Originally posted by Niels Jørgensen
Antoher thing; This may be perfectly ok, but: When I crank the engine, it'll crank a couple of times then stop, regardless of whether I release the key or not - is this normal (never thought of it before, but I seem to recall previous cars I owned kept cranking until the battery was dead or the key released?)
Antoher thing; This may be perfectly ok, but: When I crank the engine, it'll crank a couple of times then stop, regardless of whether I release the key or not - is this normal (never thought of it before, but I seem to recall previous cars I owned kept cranking until the battery was dead or the key released?)
#36
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Neils,
Just a quick note: Mike's comment on the ignition switch is a good point. Another point that came to mind as you referred to difficulty in turning the crank - and as you've nothing better to do tonight
is to pull all the plugs!
Not only will the engine be much easier to turn, but see if one or more cylinders are 'hydro-locked' with fuel: also check the oil level, and possible fuel contamination.
Just a quick note: Mike's comment on the ignition switch is a good point. Another point that came to mind as you referred to difficulty in turning the crank - and as you've nothing better to do tonight
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Not only will the engine be much easier to turn, but see if one or more cylinders are 'hydro-locked' with fuel: also check the oil level, and possible fuel contamination.
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#37
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All plugs are out already... No change... I've left them out overnight - any chance of excess fuel evaporating, or have I just created a major firebomb?
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Another thing, the oil-level is actually quite low (just above the min-mark). This is odd as I check it frequently, but I have seen it happen before: For a long period there is no oil consumption the suddenly it swallows two liters. On average I think I'm well below 1L/1KKm though.
#39
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Absolutely no problem in leaving the plugs out; however, with no plugs, the engine (should) turn over very easily via the crank. This now would be the first issue to resolve IMHO.
Do you have any 'helpers' around - like possibly someone who sat in the car while you were pulling plugs - and slipped the trans in gear?
The sump condition sounds to be normal.
Do you have any 'helpers' around - like possibly someone who sat in the car while you were pulling plugs - and slipped the trans in gear?
The sump condition sounds to be normal.
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Good thinking Garth, but no, I already checked that.
I am completely lost here. I mean, it's not just tight, I literally haven't been able to move it as much as a millimeter.
I am completely lost here. I mean, it's not just tight, I literally haven't been able to move it as much as a millimeter.
#41
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Hi Niels,
Sorry to hear of the continuing problems with your car.
If you want me to check out the LH and MAf, I'll check them for the cost of the postage.
I can't figure out why your engine is jammed. Even if it was full of fuel, it's hard to believe it could have seized up just turning on the starter.
The only other possibilities are jumped belt/piston valve contact, or flex plate/thrust bearing.
Sorry to hear of the continuing problems with your car.
If you want me to check out the LH and MAf, I'll check them for the cost of the postage.
I can't figure out why your engine is jammed. Even if it was full of fuel, it's hard to believe it could have seized up just turning on the starter.
The only other possibilities are jumped belt/piston valve contact, or flex plate/thrust bearing.
#42
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Belt condition appears to be good, you can even see the remnants of the printing on the back of the belt.
The left cam is now only just past 45 BTDC (you can see the mark someone has left), this is also marked on the orange harmonic balancer, post a pic of this as well if you're not sure that the crank is at 45 BTDC. Because the engine seems to be seized it is also worth removing the right distributor cap, the arm should be pointing in almost the same direction as the left one.
Since you have a Manual, thrust bear failure shouldn't be likely. Since you have the plugs out you can't be hydro-locked.
Irregular oil consumption is almost certainly due to driving style, any extended high revving will consume significant quantities.
The left cam is now only just past 45 BTDC (you can see the mark someone has left), this is also marked on the orange harmonic balancer, post a pic of this as well if you're not sure that the crank is at 45 BTDC. Because the engine seems to be seized it is also worth removing the right distributor cap, the arm should be pointing in almost the same direction as the left one.
Since you have a Manual, thrust bear failure shouldn't be likely. Since you have the plugs out you can't be hydro-locked.
Irregular oil consumption is almost certainly due to driving style, any extended high revving will consume significant quantities.
#43
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"- or the engine is truely difficult to turn over: This latter alternative would be unpleasant, and will not be speculated upon until you confirm the engine turns easily by hand!".... Garth
"The only other possibilities are jumped belt/piston valve contact, or flex plate/thrust bearing"..... John
Gee Wizz John, as soon as we say it, 'it' may unfortunately turn out to be true!
However, you are ,as usual, spot on the concern!!
Niels, if you are still trying to turn the engine over with a 20cm. ratchet, even with plugs out, you're a better man than I! Get an arm's length of pipe over that as a 'cheater' so that you can safely and smoothly apply the turn- over torque. Now, if that doesn't work.......
On the list of unlikely, but remotely possible things that could keep the engine from turning over (via a strong man with a wimpy wrench) are a nearly seized starter, or any of the belt drived accessories that may have a seized bearing. The starter was already noted to drop out, even with the key still in the start position: so is it the starter, or the engine internals as John noted? (The PS/alt/AC, while very remote canidates, can be checked by loosening belts.)
Excuse all the verbage, but with fingers crossed, still hopeful of a simple vs. expensive problem.
"The only other possibilities are jumped belt/piston valve contact, or flex plate/thrust bearing"..... John
Gee Wizz John, as soon as we say it, 'it' may unfortunately turn out to be true!
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Niels, if you are still trying to turn the engine over with a 20cm. ratchet, even with plugs out, you're a better man than I! Get an arm's length of pipe over that as a 'cheater' so that you can safely and smoothly apply the turn- over torque. Now, if that doesn't work.......
On the list of unlikely, but remotely possible things that could keep the engine from turning over (via a strong man with a wimpy wrench) are a nearly seized starter, or any of the belt drived accessories that may have a seized bearing. The starter was already noted to drop out, even with the key still in the start position: so is it the starter, or the engine internals as John noted? (The PS/alt/AC, while very remote canidates, can be checked by loosening belts.)
Excuse all the verbage, but with fingers crossed, still hopeful of a simple vs. expensive problem.
#44
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I prefer Garth's implied suggestion that extended cranking has caused the starter motor to sieze and not disengage, but to confirm that will mean removing the rear undertray and the lower bellhousing, not difficult, just irritating.
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John, thx. your help is (as always) much appreciated, but I have ruled out LH for the moment - at least until I can turn the crank by hand.
Actually, the idea of a seized starter occured to me earlier, and I guess it is worth a shot (cheaper than a V8 i guess
). I think I'll try to check that next. Does that explain the original failed start attempt? I guess it could.
I was in a pretty bad mood last night, then I remembered this one:
Actually, the idea of a seized starter occured to me earlier, and I guess it is worth a shot (cheaper than a V8 i guess
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I was in a pretty bad mood last night, then I remembered this one:
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