heinrich

As those very knowledgeable people above have said, there are no-start procedures. Here's one (I think you've tried it) http://members.rennlist.com/pirtle/zelec_no_start.txt

Check fuel pressure and pump activation;
Check for spark (easy with a timing light)

Don't allow raw fuel to spray out!
Make sure the battery is good and keep it good
Check spark plugs for fouling (this can be a real problem after much cranking)

Niels Jørgensen

>You don't really need a deep socket to turn the crank, a chrome one with a short extension will do

Tried that but the extension I have is too long... Is anything ever right?

I'll check spark next - probably tomorrow as I need to get hold of a battery charger first, and then charge the battery.

Heinrich; That link triggered a thought. I have an aftermarket alarm installed (I know they're the work of the devil, but so is car theft) and it has been acting weird for a long time. More specifically, a red led which is supposed to flash when the alarm is activated, just pretty much lights up all the time. Maybe I'm fighting ghosts here. It's unfortunately not very easy to disable it (that's kind of a design parameter of car alarms). Hm...

UKKid35

Sounds like you've found the problem, but if you haven't here are some pics from Pirtle that will help you confirm the cam belt status. Top one shows the notches you can just see through the inspection hole, lower picture shows the orange harmonic balancer although the TDC marks aren't obvious on the pic.

heinrich

Yes!! Nice one :-) My alarm lights up permanently when it's in valet mode but that would not cause a problem. Check it out you may be done! Do you have the manual? Or you could find it online.

heinrich

About the crank socket - I got the perfect extra-short extension from craftsman. It's a sigle-use tool for me.

Niels Jørgensen

Yeah, I know. Need to update my toolbox.

The thing is, I have a nice socket set with all kinds of extensions, doodads, around-corner-twister-2000-TM and what not, but the 27mm socket is, ofcourse, in a different, incompatible, set.

Just like my Torque wrench which is just exactly too small for my primary use; wheels. I don't know why I always do that - get the wrong tools.

Garth S

Well Neils, you may have found the ultimate auto theft deterrent with that alarm system: the car won't start - so there!
With this new variable entering the equation, and your observation of it's quirky behavior - sounds like the perfect time to determine the alarm's mechanism of disabling your car, and either repair or disable the alarm.
- besides, it's something to do while the battery is charging.

Thom1

With my aftermarket alarm (original alarm is still working too), I have used the key in the driver's door to lock, unlock, reset alarm to off. I have sometimes cycled the door lock with the key several times before the alarm is deactivated. I have usually first used the remote to stop the alarm noise.

HTH

Niels Jørgensen

Charged the battery and tried again. No Change.

Switched "Relay X" (ignition) for fan (only relay I hadn't checked). No Change.

Checked TB when cranking - it rotates so it ain't broken (still could have skipped a few teeth)

Checked spark - Bright blue spark (I'm no expert, but it looked good)

The plug I pulled was wet from fuel, so fuel delivery is probably OK, or? I've most likely flodded the car by now, but I have already tried flooring it when cranking - no change.

The alarm is still a variable, though its usual way of disabling the car is to cut power completely - I find it illogical that it should somehow be able to allow cranking but prevent the car from starting.

UKKid35

Since you have spark and fuel, you now do need to check that the TDC marks line up. As I found out, belts don't generally break, they strip their teeth in sections. If you can't make out the TDC marks on the cam shaft sprocket, remove either distributor cap (the right hand one is easier) and check that when the arm is at 3 o'clock the crank is at TDC (0|T on the harmonic balancer).

John Speake

Niels
When you turn the ignition on, without the engine cranking, can you hear a regular clicking from in the engine bay ?

Niels Jørgensen

Paul, that's what I figured... I'll try to get the covers off ASAP...

John, When ignition is on I hear relays clicking, then two audible clicks from the engine bay (click-click) , then nothing else (except a low "whirring" sound from what sounds like the center of the dash).

Antoher thing; This may be perfectly ok, but: When I crank the engine, it'll crank a couple of times then stop, regardless of whether I release the key or not - is this normal (never thought of it before, but I seem to recall previous cars I owned kept cranking until the battery was dead or the key released?)

UKKid35

Don't worry about taking the covers off, or even the spark plug cables, you can simply undo the three bolts that hold one of the distributor caps on. The Power Steering resevoir makes one side awkward, but the other side is easy. I would hold off cranking anymore until you've checked the TDC marks.

Niels Jørgensen

Paul, I removed the cap left hand side (right when facing the engine) as it seemed by far the easiest (maybe UK cars are different?), and it's pointing 1-2 o'clock-ish, but I simply cannot turn the crank. How hard is it supposed to be?

The torquewrench is too big (fan covers are in the way), and the small one does not allow me to get any leverage on it. Besides, neither of the two has more than a few centimeters of space, even if I could turn it. Am I doing something wrong?

Garth S

Neils,
If you cannot access the crank bolt easily from the top, lift and secure the car on jack stands. Remove the bottom cover and access from underneath. This is more inconvienent, but works well. (hope you have the gear to do this safely!)
The engine should turn easily with 10 -15Kg of force on a 40 cm torque wrench.
BTW, two points are puzzling; no raw gas odour was confirmed at the exhaust, but later you noted the plugs to be wet with fuel - this is a little inconsistent: if the engine turns over on the starter, there is spark, and the injectors are cycling fuel as the pump is running (and the timing/compression are OK), then there's either a vroom vroom - or raw fuel in the exhaust: if not, one of the previous points is not functioning. A bit simplistic, but you see the point?
Secondly, the comment about the starter stopping in mid cycle even with the key still held fully clockwise - certainally not normal. Either the starter/starter solenoid is defective - or the engine is truely difficult to turn over: This latter alternative would be unpleasant, and will not be speculated upon until you confirm the engine turns easily by hand!