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You have the correct fuel pump relay installed? Is this a ROW car or a Euro - L-Jet or K-Jet?
Thanks for the reply.
This is a Ljet US version. Got it started. Noticed there was spark but the plugs seemed dry. No noise from the pump at all. Went to inspect the fuel pump and after removing the cover the fuel pump started working. Then fired right up.
Previous owner replaced the pump and filter as they are brand new. Odd thing is that it appears to have had two pumps and not just one as there was a second connector for what seems to be for a second pump just wrapped up in electrical tape. This might have been a two pump version and they only put one in. Anyone have insight on this?
This is a Ljet US version. Got it started. Noticed there was spark but the plugs seemed dry. No noise from the pump at all. Went to inspect the fuel pump and after removing the cover the fuel pump started working. Then fired right up.
Previous owner replaced the pump and filter as they are brand new. Odd thing is that it appears to have had two pumps and not just one as there was a second connector for what seems to be for a second pump just wrapped up in electrical tape. This might have been a two pump version and they only put one in. Anyone have insight on this?
That's a possibility. Some cars had an internal tank pump and then an external pump. Some owners have replaced the internal pump with a strsitlner and used a different external pump from the single pump cars. If I've learned the history correctly, the early cars had the dual pumps, then they went to a single pump design, then went back to a dual pump. The consensus seems to be unless you drive where it's really hot and might get into a vapor lock issue that the single pump conversion is OK. My car is a dual pump car and I plan to keep it that way.
Another strange thing is when turning on the hazards/flashers with the lights off ignition off, the headlights go up and down and also turn on and off. Don't recall testing the hazards so could hsve already been this way.
If the lights are on, the left turn signals stay solid on and the hazard turns the headlights on and off in the up position.
Perhaps the headlight combination relay is damaged... ? Or there is panel wire(s) in the wrong position.
That's a possibility. Some cars had an internal tank pump and then an external pump. Some owners have replaced the internal pump with a strsitlner and used a different external pump from the single pump cars. If I've learned the history correctly, the early cars had the dual pumps, then they went to a single pump design, then went back to a dual pump. The consensus seems to be unless you drive where it's really hot and might get into a vapor lock issue that the single pump conversion is OK. My car is a dual pump car and I plan to keep it that way.
Appreciate the info. Interesting. What is the part that is in the trunk to the right of the battery? I first thought that was the fuel pump. Looks to go into the fuel tank from the top,, and has an elecrical connector on it. Or does this have one internal and one external pump?
Appreciate the info. Interesting. What is the part that is in the trunk to the right of the battery? I first thought that was the fuel pump. Looks to go into the fuel tank from the top,, and has an elecrical connector on it. Or does this have one internal and one external pump?
Fuel level sensor is under that screw-on top to your fuel tank. It might be a great idea to clean out the grunge from your fuel tank. You will need a new seal for the fuel level sender else it will give you fuel smell in your passenger cabin. Even if the fuel tank has already been cleaned out, it won't hurt to check it out.
Fuel level sensor is under that screw-on top to your fuel tank. It might be a great idea to clean out the grunge from your fuel tank. You will need a new seal for the fuel level sender else it will give you fuel smell in your passenger cabin. Even if the fuel tank has already been cleaned out, it won't hurt to check it out.
👍
Thanks.
Also just noticed the alternator seems dead. Car on or off the battery is just seeing the nominal voltage... not juicing between 13.5-14.5v running... sits at 12.3v like if the battery was out of the vehicle.
Does it have a belt on it? I just bought another 928 and it had a charging issue. Went to investigate and found this.
Oh wow!
Well... noticed when reving the engine it charges at 14.4v. Left it at idle and kepted charging.... the non-charging is intermittent.
On another note. WOW it runs great now! Very happy and has more power than I gave it credit for. Night and day of how it ran. I'm sure a lot of everything contributed... and prob mainly the full throttle micro switch I was replaced with an original one I found from a local 79.
Well... noticed when reving the engine it charges at 14.4v. Left it at idle and kepted charging.... the non-charging is intermittent.
On another note. WOW it runs great now! Very happy and has more power than I gave it credit for. Night and day of how it ran. I'm sure a lot of everything contributed... and prob mainly the full throttle micro switch I was replaced with an original one I found from a local 79.
Cool beans. 💪 🦈
It's possible that there's a fried diode in the alternator.
I'm not totally sure of the details, but there's a way for it to fail where the alternator won't start charging (excite) unless the motor is revved up past a certain point (2k rpm?). At that point, it will excite, start working and work properly until the car is shut off and the whole process has to be repeated.
It's possible that there's a fried diode in the alternator.
I'm not totally sure of the details, but there's a way for it to fail where the alternator won't start charging (excite) unless the motor is revved up past a certain point (2k rpm?). At that point, it will excite, start working and work properly until the car is shut off and the whole process has to be repeated.
Ok.
It did kill one battery. That is how I found out. I believe i started it without reving and just let it idle... 10min later turned off... drained the battery.
Yes definitely sounds like the alternator is failing. Or a possible bad ground... Do these have external voltafe regulators or are they part of the alternator? Maybe that's what you are referring to with the diode.
If the alternator excitation wire isn't connected, or is grounded, it won't charge even if the alternator is good.
On my car, the air duct on the rear of the alternator had been installed with the wire pinched between it and the alternator body. It wouldn't charge until the wire was isolated from ground.
If it's just an open wire, you might be able to get charging by revving the engine to see if the alternator will self-excite and start charging. Here's a thread talking about that possibility: https://rennlist.com/forums/928-foru...lternator.html
If the alternator excitation wire isn't connected, or is grounded, it won't charge even if the alternator is good.
On my car, the air duct on the rear of the alternator had been installed with the wire pinched between it and the alternator body. It wouldn't charge until the wire was isolated from ground.
If it's just an open wire, you might be able to get charging by revving the engine to see if the alternator will self-excite and start charging. Here's a thread talking about that possibility: https://rennlist.com/forums/928-foru...lternator.html
01-29-2021, 07:54 PM
