freddyuk

Thanks Joe,

Will definitely re-do the hood pad in situ, eventually, my MOT parts arrived yesterday, plus gassed all the things I'll be dismantling so it has a few days to soak in.

Here's my lights set up below in the pic.

Also, I got it running nice last night, I've cleaned up the 14 pin and some earths at the front but still loads to get through as it take me flipping ages to do each one, often tricky to get at and I have small hands! Good that it's firing up though.

Thoughts on this if you can - so last week I turned the key to start and my hand slipped before it fired, then tried again and it just cranked and cranked, which is when this issue started. I could smell a bit of unburnt fuel after a few goes so I figured it was flooded, so I left it overnight - same the following morning. So after leaving for several days and making sure to hold the key for a lot longer it fired fine. So I'm guessing cleaning up the earths will help but more broadly, if I do this in my other cars they always start on the next key turn, maybe after a little more cranking than usual. So am wondering why the 928 might be like this and what I can do to improve reliability. I guess a big v8 has a lot more mass to turn, when flooded there is a lot more liquid to shift as well as age-related crankiness.

I checked my battery voltages as well whilst off, cranking and idling as well in case my battery is crap, have been using a trickle charger:
Off - 13v
Cranking - 11v
Idling - 14.02v
then off after idling - 12.85

- it's 70 AH and looks a bit small in size in the hole, the clamp doesn't reach to hold it in place!



Fog switch arrangement

freddyuk

Glad to say that the fogs now work correctly, thanks guys for your input, I traced it to relay 4 which shares a connection with relay 8. I bought a cheap tester on Amazon which identified it as faulty, very pleased with that; looks amazing all lit up! Joe, you were right about the front fogs having 2 levels of brightness, I hadn't seen this till now - thanks!

Tomorrow if I get time I'll try and figure out why the windows are screwed. Drivers side (UK) now working intermittently, have a feeling the switch has gone bad. Passenger side only crawls down at a snail's pace! Door cards are not on properly so a good time to sort that as well.

Oh and I managed to break the electric height adjuster on the seat! I think it needs a clean as the interior lights dim when you press the button. This old beast is keeping me busy, I wanted a project and this is exactly that!

freddyuk

Quick update on my driver's door window, if it helps future readers, what I thought was a bad motor turned out to be full of debris around the brushes, so one brush was barely able to touch the commutator, so a good squirt of Deoxit lube to flush it out and all working perfectly - £150 saved, for a while at least. A dob of grease in the gearbox bit for good measure as well.

I've been recommended to use ACF50 to resist corrosion, a friend of a friend is a pilot and uses it on aircraft as a part of regular preventative maintenance, and as I get deeper into this old car I can see the need for something like this, i see corrosion surface within the door panel on the side impact bar etc so would be good to stop it getting any worse. The car gets better every day as I work through the issues, be good to give it a long life.

C531XHO

Sounds like you need a new window scraped seal if the car is to live outside at all. Apparently a bit of a PITA task to fit...

freddyuk

Thanks, the car is garaged all the time, but dampness and old salts in hidden crevices makes me want to preserve for longer term.